Leak after tensioner upgrade
#31
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Amber Gramps
The installer just cut a V shape snippet out of the engine tin. The hole need to be big enough that the oil line never touched it. I'll go snap a picture of mine........
#33
Instructor
Hi Boys ..i am amazed that this job -update kit was done by Porsche shop??
Things like new alu. washer should be there.Also each oil line to the cam shaft oil line has to have a little clamp.
the next thing -as point out above the cut for the sheet metal should large enough so it does not ouch the oil line at all.
is there a new gasket on the chain housing cover??
Ivan
it should look like this on both sides besides the oil leak ....
Things like new alu. washer should be there.Also each oil line to the cam shaft oil line has to have a little clamp.
the next thing -as point out above the cut for the sheet metal should large enough so it does not ouch the oil line at all.
is there a new gasket on the chain housing cover??
Ivan
it should look like this on both sides besides the oil leak ....
#34
Hi Boys ..i am amazed that this job -update kit was done by Porsche shop??
Things like new alu. washer should be there.Also each oil line to the cam shaft oil line has to have a little clamp.
the next thing -as point out above the cut for the sheet metal should large enough so it does not ouch the oil line at all.
is there a new gasket on the chain housing cover??
Ivan
it should look like this on both sides besides the oil leak ....
Things like new alu. washer should be there.Also each oil line to the cam shaft oil line has to have a little clamp.
the next thing -as point out above the cut for the sheet metal should large enough so it does not ouch the oil line at all.
is there a new gasket on the chain housing cover??
Ivan
it should look like this on both sides besides the oil leak ....
. See pic.
#35
Instructor
Hi..the point i like to make is,your chain housing covers do not look new to me..!! In the kit you just bought should be those little clamps and the covers should be shining not like yours....
Take it back ...really this is not a good job done...period...
Ivan
again i looked the oil line bolts are not new ,the covers are not new, the gaskets i do not see them new...what the heck is this shop??even the nuts are not new....
Take it back ...really this is not a good job done...period...
Ivan
again i looked the oil line bolts are not new ,the covers are not new, the gaskets i do not see them new...what the heck is this shop??even the nuts are not new....
#36
Hi..the point i like to make is,your chain housing covers do not look new to me..!! In the kit you just bought should be those little clamps and the covers should be shining not like yours....
Take it back ...really this is not a good job done...period...
Ivan
again i looked the oil line bolts are not new ,the covers are not new, the gaskets i do not see them new...what the heck is this shop??even the nuts are not new....
Take it back ...really this is not a good job done...period...
Ivan
again i looked the oil line bolts are not new ,the covers are not new, the gaskets i do not see them new...what the heck is this shop??even the nuts are not new....
#37
Instructor
well i have to admit on this picture the cover look better but still questionable..the way they cut the sheet metal is not professional at all.
never mind the oi leak.
Really take it back ....i know it might be pain in an *** but i would never give a client car back in this condition...
back to your problem..some one mentioned the o ring on the chain tensioner ..it could be the culprit./
basically let them deal with it it was not a cheap job ..and you payed pretty penny for it..
ivan
never mind the oi leak.
Really take it back ....i know it might be pain in an *** but i would never give a client car back in this condition...
back to your problem..some one mentioned the o ring on the chain tensioner ..it could be the culprit./
basically let them deal with it it was not a cheap job ..and you payed pretty penny for it..
ivan
#39
#40
Instructor
yup or old stock or used i do not see the shine on any parts of it... ..which is not good the way it looks..again the oil leak is the main problem if they would use old stock who knows how the orings and gaskets are...
sorry to give the bad news ..i so many ways...i am just puentlich...when it comes to work on these beasts..
ivan
sorry to give the bad news ..i so many ways...i am just puentlich...when it comes to work on these beasts..
ivan
#41
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When it comes down to it, it's really hard to tell without being there if you got new parts or not. But the hoses look new, and that's really the only wear item, other than the gaskets and seals. Since you didn't pay for it yourself, as long as it doesn't leak and the oil lines are new, you don't have much to worry about.
But Ivan makes a great point on the support brackets for the oil lines. I think the rest of us missed that. You can see the brackets at the bottom center of the kit photo. The very first upgrade kits didn't have those, and they had problems with the thin metal oil lines developing cracks and leaking, so Porsche added the brackets. Ivan's photo in Post #33 shows the right side bracket. You can still get a separate upgrade kit to add brackets and a new oil line to old upgrades: http://www.stoddard.com/93010734800-...34800-sic.html
And then the other big question is whether they upgraded your idler arms. As Iceman mentioned, some people think the old idler arms are what actually caused tensioner failure. But I bet they didn't upgrade them, they are pricey now (over $600). http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg3.htm
Mark
But Ivan makes a great point on the support brackets for the oil lines. I think the rest of us missed that. You can see the brackets at the bottom center of the kit photo. The very first upgrade kits didn't have those, and they had problems with the thin metal oil lines developing cracks and leaking, so Porsche added the brackets. Ivan's photo in Post #33 shows the right side bracket. You can still get a separate upgrade kit to add brackets and a new oil line to old upgrades: http://www.stoddard.com/93010734800-...34800-sic.html
And then the other big question is whether they upgraded your idler arms. As Iceman mentioned, some people think the old idler arms are what actually caused tensioner failure. But I bet they didn't upgrade them, they are pricey now (over $600). http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg3.htm
Mark
#42
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One last point - near the left side tensioner you can see the mounting boss for the air pump that was part of the emissions system. Someone removed it (pretty common). The round plate screwed to the engine tin is blocking the hole where the plumbing went down to the injection manifold at the exhaust ports.
When the bracket for the air pump was removed, the previous owner would have been left with two long studs. Those studs should have been removed and replaced with shorter studs, so the correct nuts could be used to hold down the chain housing cover. Instead, it looks like they replaced the studs with two bolts (those two bolt heads visible). That might make it difficult to add the bracket for the thin tensioner oil line, because it should go on the left stud where you now have a bolt. It's too bad that the shop didn't fix this as well, since they had to remove those bolts and change the chain housing cover when they replaced the tensioners. It would have been super easy to thread in the correct studs. Those bolts are not correct.
Mark
When the bracket for the air pump was removed, the previous owner would have been left with two long studs. Those studs should have been removed and replaced with shorter studs, so the correct nuts could be used to hold down the chain housing cover. Instead, it looks like they replaced the studs with two bolts (those two bolt heads visible). That might make it difficult to add the bracket for the thin tensioner oil line, because it should go on the left stud where you now have a bolt. It's too bad that the shop didn't fix this as well, since they had to remove those bolts and change the chain housing cover when they replaced the tensioners. It would have been super easy to thread in the correct studs. Those bolts are not correct.
Mark
#43
One last point - near the left side tensioner you can see the mounting boss for the air pump that was part of the emissions system. Someone removed it (pretty common). The round plate screwed to the engine tin is blocking the hole where the plumbing went down to the injection manifold at the exhaust ports.
When the bracket for the air pump was removed, the previous owner would have been left with two long studs. Those studs should have been removed and replaced with shorter studs, so the correct nuts could be used to hold down the chain housing cover. Instead, it looks like they replaced the studs with two bolts (those two bolt heads visible). That might make it difficult to add the bracket for the thin tensioner oil line, because it should go on the left stud where you now have a bolt. It's too bad that the shop didn't fix this as well, since they had to remove those bolts and change the chain housing cover when they replaced the tensioners. It would have been super easy to thread in the correct studs. Those bolts are not correct.
Mark
When the bracket for the air pump was removed, the previous owner would have been left with two long studs. Those studs should have been removed and replaced with shorter studs, so the correct nuts could be used to hold down the chain housing cover. Instead, it looks like they replaced the studs with two bolts (those two bolt heads visible). That might make it difficult to add the bracket for the thin tensioner oil line, because it should go on the left stud where you now have a bolt. It's too bad that the shop didn't fix this as well, since they had to remove those bolts and change the chain housing cover when they replaced the tensioners. It would have been super easy to thread in the correct studs. Those bolts are not correct.
Mark
Sher