Power Tool for Removing Center Lock on 2010 GT3
#1
Power Tool for Removing Center Lock on 2010 GT3
Does anyone know if there is a commercially available power tool for removing and retorquing the center lock wheel on the 2010 GT3?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Rennlist Member
You could use an impact wrench for taking the center lock off but you shouldn't use it for tightening. I don't think they are real accurate with their torque spec and you don't want to over or under torque the center lock.
#4
Thanks - I thought the dealer had mentioned a Porsche tool and assumed that it was a power tool. They probably were referring to the Porsche multiplier (part # on pg 198 of the manual). With the PCCB look like extra care is needed and a fair amount of patience.
Thanks for your feedback.
Thanks for your feedback.
#5
Snap-on and Mac tools both offer Torque Multipliers' that use a standard 1/2" torque wrench and multiply the the torque by 3 or 4 depending on the Multiplier.
That is what I use on the center nut of my Carrera GT to attain a torque of 400 + ft lb.
That is what I use on the center nut of my Carrera GT to attain a torque of 400 + ft lb.
#6
Torque Multipliers
Thanks BlackShadow - appreciate the great advise.
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#8
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It says torque accuracy is +/- 10%. That doesn't seem very accurate, does it?
So you can use a normal 1/2" torque wrench with a multiplier like this one?
How do you secure the handle and torque with the other one?
How do you secure the handle and torque with the other one?
#9
Nordschleife Master
also this post has more options.
#10
#11
Aluminum fasteners cannot absorb the impact forces -- they'll fatigue and crack. It's interesting to note that "impact" sockets and other tools are made of a "soft" metal alloy -- the durable (yet brittle) tool steel in a high quality socket will also succumb to impact tool forces over time (in high torque applications.)
Porsche and Porsche Motorsports do not offer steel centerlock nuts. I think we'll have to go to the Cup car owners to find out if there's a third party that could make an appropriate nut (with safety lock) and if there's a transport/tie-down nut that fits the threads and wheel.
I'd suggest being sure about how a given torque reaction bar "stores" the input torque. In other words, think about applying a torque wrench to the input side of the torque multiplier and the output is connected to the nut on the hub. With each ratcheting action, the input torque goes to zero, so the reaction bar (torque multiplier) has to "store" that reactive force (against the ground or a fixed object such as a spoke of the wheel.) Once you break the nut free or, conversely, reach the desired tightening torque, the mechanism for allowing the torque multiplier to release has to be "undramatic."
I don't have experience with a wide range of tools, but it's important to find a tool that can store and release the torque without creating a danger. I imagine this is in part why the Porsche special tool is over $2K (mostly profit, but also an application-specific solution that's safe in the hands of the owner.)
By the way, Bluepoint is the "affordable" brand from Snap-on and very good stuff. I'd befriend a local Sna-On truck operator and get him (her?) to order in the multiplier so you can experiment with it and be sure it's applicable. This is what I'm doing with a similar product (from Armstrong.) We'll see what happens. If I never post here again, I guess you'll know the experiment failed. : )
Porsche and Porsche Motorsports do not offer steel centerlock nuts. I think we'll have to go to the Cup car owners to find out if there's a third party that could make an appropriate nut (with safety lock) and if there's a transport/tie-down nut that fits the threads and wheel.
I'd suggest being sure about how a given torque reaction bar "stores" the input torque. In other words, think about applying a torque wrench to the input side of the torque multiplier and the output is connected to the nut on the hub. With each ratcheting action, the input torque goes to zero, so the reaction bar (torque multiplier) has to "store" that reactive force (against the ground or a fixed object such as a spoke of the wheel.) Once you break the nut free or, conversely, reach the desired tightening torque, the mechanism for allowing the torque multiplier to release has to be "undramatic."
I don't have experience with a wide range of tools, but it's important to find a tool that can store and release the torque without creating a danger. I imagine this is in part why the Porsche special tool is over $2K (mostly profit, but also an application-specific solution that's safe in the hands of the owner.)
By the way, Bluepoint is the "affordable" brand from Snap-on and very good stuff. I'd befriend a local Sna-On truck operator and get him (her?) to order in the multiplier so you can experiment with it and be sure it's applicable. This is what I'm doing with a similar product (from Armstrong.) We'll see what happens. If I never post here again, I guess you'll know the experiment failed. : )
#12
Okay, I finally got around to checking out the new Armstrong torque multiplier in action. It's very easy to use.
I chose to "break" the nut off the wheel using the Porsche telescopic breaker bar.
I then set my torque wrench to the prescribed "input" value (of 80nm) to exert the required 500nm output to secure the nut.
The approximate 6:1 ratio meant it took basically six short turns of the torque wrench (just as if you were tightening a conventional wheel lug nut or bolt.)
As the photos show, it's easy to "assemble" on the nut and supports itself, so there's no drama.
I chose to "break" the nut off the wheel using the Porsche telescopic breaker bar.
I then set my torque wrench to the prescribed "input" value (of 80nm) to exert the required 500nm output to secure the nut.
The approximate 6:1 ratio meant it took basically six short turns of the torque wrench (just as if you were tightening a conventional wheel lug nut or bolt.)
As the photos show, it's easy to "assemble" on the nut and supports itself, so there's no drama.
#13
Here's a video showing the torque multiplier tools requires only finger-tip pressure to exert the required 500nm torque to secure the centerlock wheel nut.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzpTU7lBxBA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzpTU7lBxBA
#15
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So the piece you are using (touching the ground) to store the torque is the Porsche telescopic breaker bar? Or is that part of the Armstrong set up? Maybe a better question is what all are you using there in the picture and where do I get it?
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