One more for the crowd....how much value added on pre owned car with Buckets, PCCB...
#1
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Looking at used cars out there and trying to gauge price differential. Assuming most options the same, but one car has LWB, PCCB, and Burmeister, and CPO, but more mileage...how much of a price delta do you think between these cars. I know Burmeister is subjective. My initial thought was 7-8K price difference?
Roughly speaking option delta is below....
21 MY, 17k miles, LWB, PCCB, Burmeister and CPO
20 MY, 9K miles
Roughly speaking option delta is below....
21 MY, 17k miles, LWB, PCCB, Burmeister and CPO
20 MY, 9K miles
Last edited by mile2424; 04-14-2023 at 05:01 PM.
#2
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10k-15k+ premium even with the higher miles for LWB, PCCB, Burmeister and CPO. Maybe even a higher premium, that's a very desirable car/spec.
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#3
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Looking at used cars out there and trying to gauge price differential. Assuming most options the same, but one car has LWB, PCCB, and Burmeister, and CPO, but more mileage...how much of a price delta do you think between these cars. I know Burmeister is subjective. My initial thought was 7-8K price difference?
Roughly speaking option delta is below....
21 MY, 17k miles, LWB, PCCB, Burmeister and CPO
20 MY, 9K miles
Roughly speaking option delta is below....
21 MY, 17k miles, LWB, PCCB, Burmeister and CPO
20 MY, 9K miles
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tpetsch (04-15-2023)
#4
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I dunno. Depends how much of a forever car it is for you.
Trying to buy a 991 which say had hundreds for sale in my country pre-covid, price was one of the last things that factored in because before I even got to price I eliminated all options. manaul, boom, 400 down to 50 cars to choose from. under 50000km, eliminate another chunk. no black or dark greys, eliminate half. RWD, now we're down to a handful. Eliminate the cars at sketchy dealerships. Now we've narrowed down 400 cars down to like 3 before we've even looked at options or price or condition.
If you're not picky about options then just go with the sofa iron brake car. If you are then it's really just take it or leave it once you find a car that meets your options list, because odds are there aren't many cars that meet someone's ideal list of options.
a year newer, cpo, and those options sounds cheap if it's only 7-8g more. lots of km though. sounds like it's priced low and the condition might be the reason why?
Trying to buy a 991 which say had hundreds for sale in my country pre-covid, price was one of the last things that factored in because before I even got to price I eliminated all options. manaul, boom, 400 down to 50 cars to choose from. under 50000km, eliminate another chunk. no black or dark greys, eliminate half. RWD, now we're down to a handful. Eliminate the cars at sketchy dealerships. Now we've narrowed down 400 cars down to like 3 before we've even looked at options or price or condition.
If you're not picky about options then just go with the sofa iron brake car. If you are then it's really just take it or leave it once you find a car that meets your options list, because odds are there aren't many cars that meet someone's ideal list of options.
a year newer, cpo, and those options sounds cheap if it's only 7-8g more. lots of km though. sounds like it's priced low and the condition might be the reason why?
Last edited by Zhao; 04-14-2023 at 05:30 PM.
#5
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I dunno. Depends how much of a forever car it is for you.
Trying to buy a 991 which say had hundreds for sale in my country pre-covid, price was one of the last things that factored in because before I even got to price I eliminated all options. manaul, boom, 400 down to 50 cars to choose from. under 50000km, eliminate another chunk. no black or dark greys, eliminate half. RWD, now we're down to a handful. Eliminate the cars at sketchy dealerships. Now we've narrowed down 400 cars down to like 3 before we've even looked at options or price or condition.
If you're not picky about options then just go with the sofa iron brake car. If you are then it's really just take it or leave it once you find a car that meets your options list, because odds are there aren't many cars that meet someone's ideal list of options.
a year newer, cpo, and those options sounds cheap if it's only 7-8g more. lots of km though. sounds like it's priced low and the condition might be the reason why?
Trying to buy a 991 which say had hundreds for sale in my country pre-covid, price was one of the last things that factored in because before I even got to price I eliminated all options. manaul, boom, 400 down to 50 cars to choose from. under 50000km, eliminate another chunk. no black or dark greys, eliminate half. RWD, now we're down to a handful. Eliminate the cars at sketchy dealerships. Now we've narrowed down 400 cars down to like 3 before we've even looked at options or price or condition.
If you're not picky about options then just go with the sofa iron brake car. If you are then it's really just take it or leave it once you find a car that meets your options list, because odds are there aren't many cars that meet someone's ideal list of options.
a year newer, cpo, and those options sounds cheap if it's only 7-8g more. lots of km though. sounds like it's priced low and the condition might be the reason why?
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Zhao (04-14-2023)
#6
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Ask yourself If you were buying new would you spec PCCB & LWBS? PCCBs are huge maintenance expense and better off swapping out steels for Surface Transform brakes at $15k. As to seats, LWBS are way to go in a GT4. I wouldn't want a GT4 without them.
#7
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Some buyers seek these options and will pay the premium. Others, may avoid them, and then there are those who could care less about the options and just want the car, now. Personally, I am a little suspicious of the PCCBs because if there is a problem then the replacement is a bit expensive. I like the bucket seats, but some people hate them. Personally, if I was building a car with only resale in mind, then I would keep the options to a minimum but that's no fun imho.
Last edited by jeanrabelais; 04-14-2023 at 07:26 PM.
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#8
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Looking at used cars out there and trying to gauge price differential. Assuming most options the same, but one car has LWB, PCCB, and Burmeister, and CPO, but more mileage...how much of a price delta do you think between these cars. I know Burmeister is subjective. My initial thought was 7-8K price difference?
Roughly speaking option delta is below....
21 MY, 17k miles, LWB, PCCB, Burmeister and CPO
20 MY, 9K miles
Roughly speaking option delta is below....
21 MY, 17k miles, LWB, PCCB, Burmeister and CPO
20 MY, 9K miles
I'd say minimum $10K spread with all else being equal.
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LWG (04-16-2023)
#9
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Some buyers seek these options and will the premium. Others, may avoid them, and then there are those who could care less about the options and just want the car, now. Personally, I am a little suspicious of he PCCB because if there is a problem then the replacement is a bit expensive. I like the bucket seats, but some people hate them. Personally, if I was building a car with only resale in mind, then I would keep the options to a minimum but that's no fun imho.
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Larry Cable (04-15-2023)
#10
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PCCB only huge maint expense if you’re going to track it a fair bit.
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#11
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Agreed. I was surprised at how well mine have held up under aggressive street use. At 18K miles, I still had 9mm of pad left all around, which is like 25% worn and if the pads are only worn 25%, then the rotors probably are just getting broken in.
I just swapped out my pads for 2018 versions, to get the copper back in them, but as long as you are not tracking AND keeping with replacing the pads at 50% to keep most of the heat out of the rotors, you are looking at like 36K miles per pad change, and at least 100K miles for a rotor change.
AND as stated above, in case of road damage, that is what the Comprehensive part of your insurance policy is for.
#12
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I meant specifically I was suspicious of buying PCCB on the secondary market. I would have no problem spec'ing PCCB for a build but buying them second hand is where I see the possible risk as a buyer/consumer. but only because they can be so expensive to replace if there is a problem that isn't disclosed. But if I wanted the car and it had second hand PCCBs, all things being equal I would move on it. Would I pay a premium for the PCCBs? Only if those PCCBs were specifically guaranteed for some miles/time.
Last edited by jeanrabelais; 04-15-2023 at 02:04 PM.
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I meant specifically I was suspicious of buying PCCB on the secondary market. I would have no problem spec'ing PCCB for a build but buying them second hand is where I see the possible risk as a buyer/consumer. but only because they can be so expensive to replace if there is a problem that isn't disclosed. But if I wanted the car and it hand second hand PCCBs, all things being equal I would move on it. Would I pay a premium for the PCCB? Only if those PCCB were specifically guaranteed for some miles/time.
I hear ya and agree. Easy solution though it you are serious about buying... Pay to have them weighed and measured by a local Porsche dealer, cheap insurance.
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jeanrabelais (04-14-2023)
#14
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These aren't Toyotas where volume dictate a narrow band of Market Value.
Dealers can and do ask whatever they want...many used examples of similar builds and specs priced wildly different.
Just adding up the differences you note is around $20K of MSRP price difference.
Offer whatever you feel comfortable to the dealer...it's just an ask.
Dealers can and do ask whatever they want...many used examples of similar builds and specs priced wildly different.
Just adding up the differences you note is around $20K of MSRP price difference.
Offer whatever you feel comfortable to the dealer...it's just an ask.
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Agreed. I was surprised at how well mine have held up under aggressive street use. At 18K miles, I still had 9mm of pad left all around, which is like 25% worn and if the pads are only worn 25%, then the rotors probably are just getting broken in.
I just swapped out my pads for 2018 versions, to get the copper back in them, but as long as you are not tracking AND keeping with replacing the pads at 50% to keep most of the heat out of the rotors, you are looking at like 36K miles per pad change, and at least 100K miles for a rotor change.
AND as stated above, in case of road damage, that is what the Comprehensive part of your insurance policy is for.
I just swapped out my pads for 2018 versions, to get the copper back in them, but as long as you are not tracking AND keeping with replacing the pads at 50% to keep most of the heat out of the rotors, you are looking at like 36K miles per pad change, and at least 100K miles for a rotor change.
AND as stated above, in case of road damage, that is what the Comprehensive part of your insurance policy is for.