New Spyder Owner - Any tips
12-16-2022, 03:43 PM
#31
Racer
Well, not sure how I could get this wrong - I pull both paddles simultaneously, the "1" for first gear flashes in the indicator slot, then stays in first gear. Perhaps I need to hold the paddles longer - I will give that a shot.
12-16-2022, 03:53 PM
#32
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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Gorthaur (12-18-2022)
12-16-2022, 04:36 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Welcome.
Get PPF if you haven't already. Replace the OAPs at a minimum. Lots of options at a variety of price points. If you have LWBs, get inserts and edges protectors. Get a cleaner/sealant for the convertible top and do that every six months. Depending on your goals you can get a full exhaust, toe links, a tune, etc. Lots of options to make it yours. Enjoy the journey!
Get PPF if you haven't already. Replace the OAPs at a minimum. Lots of options at a variety of price points. If you have LWBs, get inserts and edges protectors. Get a cleaner/sealant for the convertible top and do that every six months. Depending on your goals you can get a full exhaust, toe links, a tune, etc. Lots of options to make it yours. Enjoy the journey!
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Ken in San Diego (12-16-2022)
12-16-2022, 04:47 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Here's another one, learn (if you don't know already) how to set your side view mirrors properly (i.e. not aimed at your back fender) the blind spot from the top is fairly larger. You can eliminate the blind spot if you correctly overlap your rear view mirror and side mirrors, and of course shoulder check is mandatory.
12-16-2022, 04:50 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Congrats! Post some pictures of the new ride when you can. 
I got my Spyder in May, and here are a few thoughts you might find useful:
I got my Spyder in May, and here are a few thoughts you might find useful:
- The roof is "tight" for a while, especially when closing and the latch mechanism is being engaged. I was nervous at first, but you gotta pull the roof towards the front windshield pretty hard until it loosens up a bit.
- Along the same lines, I would keep the roof closed when the car is in the garage - it helps with the first point I made and also reduces dust in the cabin from the garage.
- When you're closing the roof, you might consider attaching the flaps to the deck lid, but not locking the deck lid into place. I have better luck attaching flaps, getting in the car and securing the roof to the windshield, THEN hopping back out and snapping the deck lid closed.
- When you wash the car, make sure you put your car dryer nozzle in the "smile" vent for several swipes. Soap and water will come out on your splitter, rather than on your windshield when you're driving off!
- The car cools itself effectively when you're driving, but when you get out, it is HOT (especially with stock OAPs) next to the intake, so take notice of that.
- Unlike my 981s, pulling both paddles on the steering wheel does NOT put you into neutral, for whatever reason.
- There are a bunch of combinations out there to improve / refine the exhaust volume / tone / valve operation. IMO, it's a must on this car, in one way or another.
@Bill in Marin come and join us for a drive on 1/7/23!
12-16-2022, 05:11 PM
#36
Three Wheelin'
Not sure how often you drive and/or park the car but a CTEK maintainer is recommended. Lithium version if you have that battery. Tracking the car is a slippery slope. If you don't have previous track experience find the one day PCA High Performance Drivers Clinic. Definitely get PPF soonest. Many add additional protection like Tracwrap. Driving on the track is hard on the left front outer edge which is the need for more negative camber. If you DD or have a lot of street miles with an aggressive track alignment, front negative camber, can wear the inside of the front tires. Serious track time needs a dedicated set of wheels, track tires, track pads and SRF or equivalent. I'd wait and see how much track time you have before adding toe links. The DSC controller improves PASM performance but more so on the track. Especially if you track add screens for the three radiators and side intakes. Find you local PCA chapter and other clubs for events. Find a local independent with a PIWIS that also preps cars for the track.
12-16-2022, 05:13 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Not sure how often you drive and/or park the car but a CTEK maintainer is recommended. Lithium version if you have that battery. Tracking the car is a slippery slope. If you don't have previous track experience find the one day PCA High Performance Drivers Clinic. Definitely get PPF soonest. Many add additional protection like Tracwrap. Driving on the track is hard on the left front outer edge which is the need for more negative camber. If you DD or have a lot of street miles with an aggressive track alignment, front negative camber, can wear the inside of the front tires. Serious track time needs a dedicated set of wheels, track tires, track pads and SRF or equivalent. I'd wait and see how much track time you have before adding toe links. The DSC controller improves PASM performance but more so on the track. Especially if you track add screens for the three radiators and side intakes. Find you local PCA chapter and other clubs for events. Find a local independent with a PIWIS that also preps cars for the track.
12-16-2022, 05:53 PM
#38
Price
I'm a new Spyder and a new P-Car owner. After being on a waitlist for a GTS for almost 2 years. Then I rolled that deposit into a T, realized a Spyder was probably the better car at that price point, saw Spyder prices dropping, and pulled the trigger on a Manual in Chalk for a healthy markdown. It seemed the best way to get into a GT equivalent car at a reasonable price point. Pretty hyped. Any collective wisdom from the crowd on:
1. Basic mod recommendations if tracked 2-3 times a year (fluids, pads, etc)
2. Any watchouts, service items, quick fixes, etc. Like are there 2-3 things every Spyder or 718 owner should do.
1. Basic mod recommendations if tracked 2-3 times a year (fluids, pads, etc)
2. Any watchouts, service items, quick fixes, etc. Like are there 2-3 things every Spyder or 718 owner should do.
Last edited by mojo12345; 12-16-2022 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Spelling
12-16-2022, 05:57 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
and no one yet mentioned the clear side markers?
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dichael (12-18-2022)
12-16-2022, 06:38 PM
#40
Drifting
Definitely. I guess there are things that we automatically do when we get our car that is not as obvious when you are new to the brand.
<———This is the look you go for.
Also I would suggest looking at Windschott glass.
https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...indschott.html
<———This is the look you go for.
Also I would suggest looking at Windschott glass.
https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...indschott.html
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Ken in San Diego (12-17-2022)
12-16-2022, 08:57 PM
#42
Alex shin
12-17-2022, 06:18 AM
#43
Late to the party but I have to laugh at Bill in Marin getting ExMb'd. There couldn't be a stronger juxtaposition of personalities if you tried.
Bill, welcome. This isn't a super friendly forum when you don't demonstrate effort, but the hazing doesn't last very long as you're already seeing.
Track 2-3 times a year, you don't need much, if anything. Bleed the brakes with a higher temp fluid maybe. If you are fast and on a heavy braking track you'll probably need more track focused pads. The springs are soft, you'll burn the tire outer shoulder if you don't put a lot of camber (more than -2.5) Thunderhill and Buttonwillow would be fun tracks if you are unaware.
Otherwise, consider the seat protectors by Ed Guard. The bucket seats are easily damaged through normal use.
I wouldn't waste money on PPF (and my car is entirely PPF'd). Just drive and enjoy, and get a respray if you are bothered by it. In 12,000 miles my ppf is damaged enough that I see it from 10ft away so, whats the point now. It costs about as much to respray and it also only lasts 5-7 yr before everyone recommends pulling it off and replacing.
Get an alignment. From the factory its pretty all over the place.
Rear toe links are always recommended to improve the toe out behavior of the rear. Do that at the same time as the alignment.
You can add android auto and carplay, nav and other locked features for free. I searched and found the thread
Bill, welcome. This isn't a super friendly forum when you don't demonstrate effort, but the hazing doesn't last very long as you're already seeing.
Track 2-3 times a year, you don't need much, if anything. Bleed the brakes with a higher temp fluid maybe. If you are fast and on a heavy braking track you'll probably need more track focused pads. The springs are soft, you'll burn the tire outer shoulder if you don't put a lot of camber (more than -2.5) Thunderhill and Buttonwillow would be fun tracks if you are unaware.
Otherwise, consider the seat protectors by Ed Guard. The bucket seats are easily damaged through normal use.
I wouldn't waste money on PPF (and my car is entirely PPF'd). Just drive and enjoy, and get a respray if you are bothered by it. In 12,000 miles my ppf is damaged enough that I see it from 10ft away so, whats the point now. It costs about as much to respray and it also only lasts 5-7 yr before everyone recommends pulling it off and replacing.
Get an alignment. From the factory its pretty all over the place.
Rear toe links are always recommended to improve the toe out behavior of the rear. Do that at the same time as the alignment.
You can add android auto and carplay, nav and other locked features for free. I searched and found the thread
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12-17-2022, 02:50 PM
#44
Banned
Late to the party but I have to laugh at Bill in Marin getting ExMb'd. There couldn't be a stronger juxtaposition of personalities if you tried.
Bill, welcome. This isn't a super friendly forum when you don't demonstrate effort, but the hazing doesn't last very long as you're already seeing.
Track 2-3 times a year, you don't need much, if anything. Bleed the brakes with a higher temp fluid maybe. If you are fast and on a heavy braking track you'll probably need more track focused pads. The springs are soft, you'll burn the tire outer shoulder if you don't put a lot of camber (more than -2.5) Thunderhill and Buttonwillow would be fun tracks if you are unaware.
Otherwise, consider the seat protectors by Ed Guard. The bucket seats are easily damaged through normal use.
I wouldn't waste money on PPF (and my car is entirely PPF'd). Just drive and enjoy, and get a respray if you are bothered by it. In 12,000 miles my ppf is damaged enough that I see it from 10ft away so, whats the point now. It costs about as much to respray and it also only lasts 5-7 yr before everyone recommends pulling it off and replacing.
Get an alignment. From the factory its pretty all over the place.
Rear toe links are always recommended to improve the toe out behavior of the rear. Do that at the same time as the alignment.
You can add android auto and carplay, nav and other locked features for free. I searched and found the thread
Bill, welcome. This isn't a super friendly forum when you don't demonstrate effort, but the hazing doesn't last very long as you're already seeing.
Track 2-3 times a year, you don't need much, if anything. Bleed the brakes with a higher temp fluid maybe. If you are fast and on a heavy braking track you'll probably need more track focused pads. The springs are soft, you'll burn the tire outer shoulder if you don't put a lot of camber (more than -2.5) Thunderhill and Buttonwillow would be fun tracks if you are unaware.
Otherwise, consider the seat protectors by Ed Guard. The bucket seats are easily damaged through normal use.
I wouldn't waste money on PPF (and my car is entirely PPF'd). Just drive and enjoy, and get a respray if you are bothered by it. In 12,000 miles my ppf is damaged enough that I see it from 10ft away so, whats the point now. It costs about as much to respray and it also only lasts 5-7 yr before everyone recommends pulling it off and replacing.
Get an alignment. From the factory its pretty all over the place.
Rear toe links are always recommended to improve the toe out behavior of the rear. Do that at the same time as the alignment.
You can add android auto and carplay, nav and other locked features for free. I searched and found the thread
Interesting point about PPF. So many folks here recommend it. As you have it on your car, and you don't recommend it. Is it the XPEL brand? I have my new Spyder coming next month, but with XPEL and ceramic coating, I am looking at about $8k. It's a lot of money.
Also, I am the original owner of a 99 Boxster and still drive it. 120k miles. Yes, I have some paint chips on the hood and front. Maybe 10-15 chips over the years. I bought touch up paint from Porsche ($75 is crazy expensive, but much less than $8k), and I am fine filling in the small paint chips. From a slight distance, I cannot notice the touch up paint....
I am leaning towards a ceramic coating for all the paint, black plastic, and rims/brakes. This is simply for easier clean up and some UV protection.
Last edited by Ken in San Diego; 12-17-2022 at 04:15 PM.
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Larry Cable (12-18-2022)
12-17-2022, 04:09 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
Interesting point about PPF. So many folks here recommend it. As you have it on your car, and your don't recommend it. Is it the XPEL brand? I have my new Spyder coming next month, but with XPEL and ceramic coating, I am looking at about $8k. It's a lot of money.
Also, I am the original owner of a 99 Boxster and still drive it. 120k miles. Yes, I have some paint chips on the hood and front. Maybe 10-15 chips over the years. I bought touch up paint from Porsche ($75 is crazy expensive, but much less than $8k), and I am fine filling in the small paint chips. From a slight distance, I cannot notice the touch up paint....
I am leaning towards a ceramic coating for all the paint, black plastic, and rims/brakes. This is simply for easier clean up and some UV protection.
Also, I am the original owner of a 99 Boxster and still drive it. 120k miles. Yes, I have some paint chips on the hood and front. Maybe 10-15 chips over the years. I bought touch up paint from Porsche ($75 is crazy expensive, but much less than $8k), and I am fine filling in the small paint chips. From a slight distance, I cannot notice the touch up paint....
I am leaning towards a ceramic coating for all the paint, black plastic, and rims/brakes. This is simply for easier clean up and some UV protection.
Im leaning towards the same train of thought as you. My current car has a 1/3 PPF, and my OCD self could spot the difference from where the PPF was laid, to where it was not like it was a sore thumb. I had been going back and forth with the idea of doing the 1/3 wrap again (XPEL) or the entire car in STEALTH/Ceramic. Today I woke up and decided against the 6-7,000$ combo. Instead, my buddy who is a detailer will do a light polish to the factory paintwork, then I’ll follow up doing all the rest of the steps myself (Decontamination…etc…). Crystal Serum Light, topped with EXO X2 coats. This stuff is easy to work with, and I’ll save even more by doing this DIY - the plan it to split up the project over two weekends; 1st the paint/trim, 2nd Wheels/Glass/Interior. My out of pocket cost will be less than 1000$, with all the rest of the PPF money alone going towards Exhaust, Suspension, and other miscellaneous mods that will give me a better bang for my buck than PPF/Ceramic $$$$
Touch up paint will be bought ASAP, bc I will have around 100,000 on the GT4 within 5-6 years, and I do a lot of highway driving.
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Ken in San Diego (12-17-2022)