Does anyone just leave 100% stock?
#31
I like stock. I don't mod stuff. I even leave track cars stock way beyond what I should tolerate, although I'm thinking the GT4 is going to get shims, and I might tinker with the rear end.
My race car has proper suspension and just enough cooling mods to be reliable, but I could add 50% more power and still be legal for the classes I usually run with and I haven't because I don't feel like cracking open a perfectly good engine.
I believe mods devalue cars and often make them worse.
My race car has proper suspension and just enough cooling mods to be reliable, but I could add 50% more power and still be legal for the classes I usually run with and I haven't because I don't feel like cracking open a perfectly good engine.
I believe mods devalue cars and often make them worse.
#32
Mine is mechanically stock. I don’t think I will be able to discern a huge performance difference from my normal driving. And I highly doubt I will use or need more than what came with the car for street driving.
I tend to accept a car out of the box as is. The way Porsche god intended it to be. But I always spec my own car.
Just minor cosmetic changes that I did.
Clear side markers
Windschott glass
Bolster protector/ custom headrest covers.
I tend to accept a car out of the box as is. The way Porsche god intended it to be. But I always spec my own car.
Just minor cosmetic changes that I did.
Clear side markers
Windschott glass
Bolster protector/ custom headrest covers.
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SpeedySpidey (12-07-2022)
#34
Tasteful upgrades you should do:
1) Get an exhaust (OPF and Muffler) and exhaust valves. Headers are optional
2) PPF
3) If it's stick - get the Numeric shifting cables and metal ball ends
4) Clear side markers
5) LWBS bolster protectors
This is everything I did to my car
1) Get an exhaust (OPF and Muffler) and exhaust valves. Headers are optional
2) PPF
3) If it's stick - get the Numeric shifting cables and metal ball ends
4) Clear side markers
5) LWBS bolster protectors
This is everything I did to my car
#35
1. Install adjustable TPC or Tarret rear toe links (google or search alignment threads). You need this because Porsche crippled the rear of the car with a static length toe link so you cant adjust the rear camber. $750
2. Take the car to a good alignment or Porsche race shop (not a dealership) and get a decent alignment done on the car to about -2 front camber and -1.8 rear camber. This makes the car handle 100% better. $300
3. get an exhaust valve controller like cargraphic so you can keep the exhaust valves open as you like. $500
4. change out the OAP exhaust pipe so you can get some sound out of the car. $1500
THATS IT! Simple and cost effective and maybe get you to 85 or 87%. You will love and enjoy the car much more.
PS. I ripped out the entire exhaust, got an ECU tune and dumped the pasm suspension for coilovers and now the car is 92-94% of what it should have been from the factory.
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CDinSing (12-11-2022)
#36
Nope, no way I could keep my ‘22 Spyder stock. Also echoing others that have partially mentioned, my must have mods are:
- PPF w/ ceramic coat
- T-Design9 memory module
- Rennline magnetic phone mount
- RGS intake grills
- JCR silenced valves race exhaust
- Flat6 OAP
- PPF w/ ceramic coat
- T-Design9 memory module
- Rennline magnetic phone mount
- RGS intake grills
- JCR silenced valves race exhaust
- Flat6 OAP
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IL_Pete (12-09-2022)
#37
#38
What's this thing called 'stock'? All kidding aside, modding is fun and makes the car unique and catered to your own taste. Most of what I've done is cosmetic or helps me enjoy the car more (such as Musicar Stage 1 and Cargraphic Valve Controller). In terms of performance unless you track you don't really need much other than rear Toe Links and proper alignment. For sound, OAPs are great bang for the buck.
#39
"Bachelor Party! With chicks, and firetrucks, and chicks... it'll be great!"
"And the lucky spice is: Paprika!" "I'm the happiest spice in the world."
"Swedish meatballs: Inga, Unga, Olga"
"I want some wiiiiiiiine"
Stock? Umm, no. Never. Even if small. On the 718, you NEED at least to change the OAP's and Cargraphic EV controller. That changes the car DRAMATICALLY! From there, it's all personal taste and depends on intended use. But you cannot leave the exhaust stock IMO.
LOVE the white Sypder.
"And the lucky spice is: Paprika!" "I'm the happiest spice in the world."
"Swedish meatballs: Inga, Unga, Olga"
"I want some wiiiiiiiine"
Stock? Umm, no. Never. Even if small. On the 718, you NEED at least to change the OAP's and Cargraphic EV controller. That changes the car DRAMATICALLY! From there, it's all personal taste and depends on intended use. But you cannot leave the exhaust stock IMO.
LOVE the white Sypder.
Last edited by AdamIsAdam; 12-07-2022 at 11:03 AM.
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GrandPaJohn (12-07-2022)
#40
All of my "mods" are easy to reverse in one afternoon bolt-ons and I keep all the stock parts. I appreciate enhancements but I also appreciate a totally stock car especially if I still have this car ten years from now.
#41
I can't leave things alone.
How far I go depends on how long I plan on keeping the car, where the car starts, and the goals for the car. For race Miata, I have probably 4x Miata value in mods. Tho for most cars, I've learned I prefer to mostly not go into the engine, but I do like a lot of 'bolt on' mods and suspension upgrades. I have made some cars worse, mostly in the metric of reliability, and usually when I start going > 2x OEM power levels. If one wants to go that far, I've had good (reliability) experience with swapping everything in the driveline from a higher powered vehicle, and staying within 2x the power levels of the donor. None of my current cars are stock, and with past lessions learned, most current mods have been very beneficial.
The GT4 already started in a good place for my goals with it, so I stayed near the OEM performance envelope. The mods I've done with my GT4 (AP Radical, all rubber removed from suspension (monoballs, etc.), full exhaust, big ****, 19" wheels, track alignment) have improved the performance somewhat but are absolutely transformative WRT the driving experience, and have little or no effect on reliability.
How far I go depends on how long I plan on keeping the car, where the car starts, and the goals for the car. For race Miata, I have probably 4x Miata value in mods. Tho for most cars, I've learned I prefer to mostly not go into the engine, but I do like a lot of 'bolt on' mods and suspension upgrades. I have made some cars worse, mostly in the metric of reliability, and usually when I start going > 2x OEM power levels. If one wants to go that far, I've had good (reliability) experience with swapping everything in the driveline from a higher powered vehicle, and staying within 2x the power levels of the donor. None of my current cars are stock, and with past lessions learned, most current mods have been very beneficial.
The GT4 already started in a good place for my goals with it, so I stayed near the OEM performance envelope. The mods I've done with my GT4 (AP Radical, all rubber removed from suspension (monoballs, etc.), full exhaust, big ****, 19" wheels, track alignment) have improved the performance somewhat but are absolutely transformative WRT the driving experience, and have little or no effect on reliability.
Last edited by enduro; 12-07-2022 at 12:15 PM.
#43
I have done a few cosmetic mods to the interior of my CGTS. Leather shift boot for the PDK. Carbon fiber shift ****. Red starter key dummy. Red drive mode selector switch. Rennline mag safe phone charging mount. Kaizen console cup holder. Fürstel Coco Mats.
Did extensive PPF, window tinting and full ceramic. Oh, and clear side markers up front. Plus, Chalk key fob cover from China.
Mechanically, no changes.
Did extensive PPF, window tinting and full ceramic. Oh, and clear side markers up front. Plus, Chalk key fob cover from China.
Mechanically, no changes.
#44
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AdamIsAdam (12-07-2022)