As opposed to used Hoosiers.

I don't think the OP of the video is lying in the comments section on the tires he was using.

 

As a relatively mediocre driver (especially compared to Randy), I find it hilarious that he's one handing the wheel most of the time and even making significant oversteer corrections with one hand. Totally relaxed, out for a Sunday drive.

 

I did an alignment on a 4RS yesterday and was curious about a couple findings.

I measure track width using hubstands which are placed on the wheel hubs where the wheels would go.

The track width of my GT4 measured

Front
1773mm
Rear
1773mm

The same measurement method on the GT4RS resulted in

Front
1778mm
Rear
1745mm


Neither vehicle was using spacers on the hub. Both have front camber plates.

The rear camber delta between the GT4 and the 4RS was 4.5mm worth of shim per side if each mm of shim is worth 1mm of track. Meaning, even with the increased rear camber on the GT4, the smaller track difference on the 4RS is still unaccounted for.


The GT4 had more rear camber shim but nothing approaching 28mm worth (that would be +14mm camber shim per side more or 1.58degree more camber).

This doesn't line up with the Porsche marketing speak.

"In addition, the front track is six millimetres wider and the rear track is eight mm wider than on the 718 Cayman GT4, which reduces the vehicle’s lateral inclination."

The front track measurement is very close however, and we're running almost the same camber (3.2 GT4 vs 2.9 GT4RS).

 

I'm hoping someone can do me a favor. I'm struggling to measure ride height the way that Porsche and Manthey specify, to the points in the trailing corners of the frunk.

Can anyone translate this to fender height?

I'm convinced my front is still slightly low after the addition of all the camber. I've raised the coils 2 "turns" after the camber alignment, but think I might need to add a third.

Help? If you have done the 109mm (or whatever) front ride height, can you measure your front fender height?

 

Will be getting my goe checked out and will give it a tweaks at the same time. For 75% fast road and 25% track, are these settings a reasonably sensible starting point?

Camber (deg)
Front -2.0 / -2.0
Rear -1.5 / -1.5

Toe
Front 0.0 mm / 0.0 mm
Rear +2.0 mm / +2.0 mm

 

I would max out what the shop can get from the rear without toe links, then add 0.5 extra up front once you know that, aim for -1.8 rear on stock parts.
Maybe lower the car also.

 

While mine is only the GT4, not the 4RS,

Here is what I use for aggressive street settings... and they work pretty awesome dynamically speaking. Tire wear is not even in the rear, but I like the stability.

FRONT: -2.5 camber, 1mm toe in per side, Caster 9.2

REAR: -2.1 camber, 2.3 mm toe in per side


Granted I have front camber plates, front adj. caster pucks, & rear toe links.

 

The 4RS is going into P of M for its first track alignment next week. They are an authorized Manthey installer. I'm trying to decide on whether to just roll with the Manthey settings or go with more camber. I ran -2.4F / -2.0R and whatever toe Aleks was recommending back in the day on the 981GT4 I had, but I've been tracking a .1 GT3 for the last 5 years with OEM alignment and have gotten a lot quicker. I've purchased Tarett front camber plates and rear toe links to go on the car but since the Manthey alignment is designed to work with OEM suspension and I believe the Manthey setup just adds a shim to the front LCA do the camber plates mess with the Manthey geometry? I think I read the Manthey alignment uses less camber F/R overall than what I see a lot of people running and gets around that by lowering the car? I don't think the rear toe links are a problem with Manthey or a more conventional setup. Any thoughts anyone has would be appreciated.

 

The Manthey setup is a compromise between street and track...no surprise here as these are mods sold through dealers and factory authorized.
But for the track I would go with amore aggressive setup that will require camber plates, shims and toe links.

 

Manthey sells several different levels of "kit" including a toe-link/camber plate level with shims and a couple other little items. They'll also sell you a $54k kit with shocks and wings (and even wheels for more) that shifts the street track balance to almost track only.

There's nothing wrong with the toe links and the camber plates in addition to the shims- it's the combo I use- and it can make for an even more aggressive alignment. The aggressive alignment settings aren't necessarily less streetable, they're just a different feel. More camber means less feel "on center" and more tramlining and more tire wear. More toe can feel really good (up top a point), but really increases tire wear if you're just putting miles on the car.

Another nice thing is that alignment settings can always be changed back. See what you like and how it fits your driving style and you aren't going to lose anything but a few $ for alignment and new tires.

 

The only kit they will sell you for 4RS is based upon the coilovers. (Available separately or as part of full performance kit)

They don’t offer the lower level kit for OEM dampers for 4RS. Not withstanding that everyone knows the parts from their previous GT4 camber kit (camber plates and toe links) will do the same job for 4RS.
Just that it’s not actually official supported.

As for the setup table… as has been said it’ll be mild, and lots of people that track will end up looking for something more aggressive.

 

If you are going to track the car often then put as much camber as you can manage in, -2mm toe and skip the manthey alignment stuff. It's going to be a waste of money paying for the spec from the dealer. Any decent race shop can set it up better for thousands less $.

If you plan to put a majority of street miles in then something between -2.6 and -3 front camber, whatever you like on the rear it won't matter (-2.2 - -2.6) and -1.4 to -2mm of rear toe per side will be fine.

You can't drive hard enough on the street to need aggressive camber or toe, and if you track the car often you'll be wearing the tires out before the aggressive camber cords the inner portion of the tire.

 

Agree.

 

Does Manthey have a recommended setup for a stock Spyder RS yet?

 

Without getting into the details I have a business relationship with them or I would probably take the car to Aleks. P of M is perfectly capable of doing a more aggressive track alignment setup / corner balance for me, they have in the past. I'd like to go ahead and add the F camber plates now even if I try the Manthey so I have more leeway for a more aggressive setup in the future.