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718 GTS 4.0/GT4/GT4RS/Spyder/25th Anniversary Discussions about the 718 version of the GT4RS, GTS 4.0, GT4, Spyder and 25th Anniversary Boxster
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GT4RS - Track Setup

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Old 05-24-2023 | 12:29 PM
  #406  
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Originally Posted by TRZ06
It already exists... Both the Manthey KW kit OR an MCS replacement will solve the stock damping issues.

AND BEFORE the fan bois jump in, yes the GT4 RS is better than a GT4 , common sense. HOWEVER you can still improve on even the GT4 RS.

My car on just MCS 2-ways (the KW kit is 3 ways I believe, and you can go 3 or 4 ways on MCS as well) is very confident inspiring on bumps and dips now and it does not get unsettled one bit, even mid-corner bumps at speed. You put motorsport quality dampers on and it transforms the car. The only limitation now (and is just a fact of life for a low sports car) is limited suspension travel.
I think it can improve but at what cost (not only money wise), everything has its Pros and Cons.
I think you have to determine for each individual case the solution based on several parameters.
If your tracks are smooth then the OEM with minor adjustments might do the trick. If it's bumpy and challenging maybe the damper swap or just a DSC might work.
Also, the level of skill of the driver....can the driver exploit the mods the car has or just provide extra confidence?
There's no one solution, fix all for any car...the options are out there, you just have to pick the correct ones for your intended use.

Old 05-24-2023 | 05:56 PM
  #407  
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Originally Posted by jmartpr
I think it can improve but at what cost (not only money wise), everything has its Pros and Cons.
I think you have to determine for each individual case the solution based on several parameters.
If your tracks are smooth then the OEM with minor adjustments might do the trick. If it's bumpy and challenging maybe the damper swap or just a DSC might work.
Also, the level of skill of the driver....can the driver exploit the mods the car has or just provide extra confidence?
There's no one solution, fix all for any car...the options are out there, you just have to pick the correct ones for your intended use.

Completely agree with all you said.

For me personally, even without any actual time improvements, the BOLD is worth the cost. Some might like that challenge of wrestling and taming a car, but for me, I MUCH prefer a car to be sorted and not have to wrestle with it. I want a dance partner, not a sparing partner. If you drive hard and enjoy putting a car thru its paces, I don't want it trying to kill me in the process or have the margins of error be so narrow. So for me, my MCS set-up allows that and fits in with my mind-set and goals of what I want out of a sports car.

But as you say, all personal preference.

Last edited by TRZ06; 05-24-2023 at 05:58 PM.
Old 05-24-2023 | 08:49 PM
  #408  
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could you repeat that again please???

Originally Posted by TRZ06
Completely agree with all you said.

For me personally, even without any actual time improvements, the BOLD is worth the cost. Some might like that challenge of wrestling and taming a car, but for me, I MUCH prefer a car to be sorted and not have to wrestle with it. I want a dance partner, not a sparing partner. If you drive hard and enjoy putting a car thru its paces, I don't want it trying to kill me in the process or have the margins of error be so narrow. So for me, my MCS set-up allows that and fits in with my mind-set and goals of what I want out of a sports car.

But as you say, all personal preference.
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Old 05-24-2023 | 10:53 PM
  #409  
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All I know is I really hope someone lets me have a shot in their GT4RS one day (seriously hit me up)

Having tracked a 981 GT4 on stock suspension for 2+ years, 718 PDK on stock suspension with springs multiple times, and 718 GT4 with MCS 2WR (my current chariot).... I would drive it stock for a bit first if I had a GT4RS. Put camber plates and toe links on, max it out, and move from there. Having been around the paddock long enough, you hear 'oh I changed to XXX tires and gained a second, or I added MCS 3WR and gained a second...etc.'. But in isolation what does it mean if you were 5 seconds off what a stock car could do? There are a ton of variables to driving fast, and people get a lot of joy out of tinkering modding etc which is great, but from a pure track performance perspective most GT4's I see (let alone GT4RS's) are not being driven even close to their potential. I am still on the quest to reaching these cars potential myself (hence why I post laps for others to view and digest), and that is half the fun. If you just throw suspension on straight away you are really robbing yourself off that journey.
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Old 05-25-2023 | 12:12 AM
  #410  
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Originally Posted by Jevi Javi
could you repeat that again please???

Sure...

Completely agree with all you said.

For me personally, even without any actual time improvements, the BOLD is worth the cost. Some might like that challenge of wrestling and taming a car, but for me, I MUCH prefer a car to be sorted and not have to wrestle with it. I want a dance partner, not a sparing partner. If you drive hard and enjoy putting a car thru its paces, I don't want it trying to kill me in the process or have the margins of error be so narrow. So for me, my MCS set-up allows that and fits in with my mind-set and goals of what I want out of a sports car.

But as you say, all personal preference.



Old 05-25-2023 | 01:02 AM
  #411  
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Have we figured out the ride height / rake mystery? Looking at photos there appears to be a huge variation between stock cars and MR setups, especially on the rear.
Old 05-25-2023 | 02:08 AM
  #412  
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That is the beauty of track driving. You make your modifications to have a great dance partner as mentioned above, but you can also have some fun by throwing it around and wrestling with it a bit at or just over the limits of the car. With a one-way 40 foot wide track, you can do that with relative safety as compared to a narrow 2-way road, without endangering yourself or anyone else. I absolutely love pitching the car into a corner on the edge and making the necessary micro corrections with the steering wheel and pedals based off the feeling you receive through the seat of your pants as the car begins to rotate.

When your car is good and you know the track, then you start to anticipate what the car is going to do and make many of the corrections proactively vs reactively. At some point you just become one with the car and get into the zone and everything becomes somewhat automatic. That's what a good track setup is all about for me.
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Old 05-25-2023 | 02:32 AM
  #413  
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Anybody still using their 991.343.015.8A ,991.343.016.8A camber plates from the regular 981/718 gt4's? I remember seeing Manthey adding a spacer for their 718 kit but not really sure why and if it would be needed in the case of the gt4rs as well.
Old 05-25-2023 | 06:06 AM
  #414  
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Originally Posted by Axis
Anybody still using their 991.343.015.8A ,991.343.016.8A camber plates from the regular 981/718 gt4's? I remember seeing Manthey adding a spacer for their 718 kit but not really sure why and if it would be needed in the case of the gt4rs as well.
They sometimes use it for extra clearance in N’ring setups.
Old 05-28-2023 | 03:30 PM
  #415  
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Originally Posted by JRitt@essex
Our Spiegler 6-line kit (originally part#13.02.06900, and now part#13.02.06902) was originally developed specifically for the 991.1 GT3 to allow the removal of the calipers without breaking the hydraulic connection. We were able to make a small length adjustment to the rear to allow the same kit to be used on the earlier Boxster/Caymans.The original kit still had 6 lines, but the rear line was longer and spanned the entire distance from the inner fender to the caliper, bypassing the OE bracket mounted to the rear caliper. The rear line used a 45* male fitting at the caliper in order to better match the OE line routing. However, after some time mounted on the car we had a customer notice witness marks in the outer sheathing on one of his rear lines from contact with the wheel. After an investigation, it was found that the rear steering feature combined with the clock-able 45* fitting that was used could potentially allow the line to rotate over and come into contact with the wheel over time. Since the sole purpose of altering the OE routing of the lines was to allow the removal of the caliper without breaking the hydraulic connection, and because the hard line design in the rear did not prevent the caliper from being lifted off the disc without breaking the hydraulic connection, we made the decision to return to the OE routing and retain the hard line connection at the rear caliper.
Jeff, wasn't there also an issue with changing wheels from 20" to 19", especially on the 981s which don't have RWS?
Old 06-02-2023 | 09:09 AM
  #416  
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Anybody else getting crazy amounts of "bump steer"/ instability during hard breaking on the RS? I know the platform is prone to this condition, but the shop mostly had it dialed out of my prior GT4. RS setup is the same, but holy crap this one can surprise, fine one lap and darty as hell the next. Anybody else experience this? Solutions?











Old 06-02-2023 | 09:31 AM
  #417  
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Originally Posted by NastyHabits
Anybody else getting crazy amounts of "bump steer"/ instability during hard breaking on the RS? I know the platform is prone to this condition, but the shop mostly had it dialed out of my prior GT4. RS setup is the same, but holy crap this one can surprise, fine one lap and darty as hell the next. Anybody else experience this? Solutions?
After doing the basic suspension mods + alignment the car feels really good....no bumpsteer at all. Have you done anything to the car or is it stock?
Old 06-02-2023 | 10:41 AM
  #418  
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Originally Posted by jmartpr
After doing the basic suspension mods + alignment the car feels really good....no bumpsteer at all. Have you done anything to the car or is it stock?
Shop does alignments in millimeters, has mine set to; 1.0mm out per side frt. 1.5mm in per side rear. Not sure where sway bar set. Stock wheels and OEM tires. not lowered. max downforce
Old 06-02-2023 | 11:10 AM
  #419  
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Originally Posted by NastyHabits
Shop does alignments in millimeters, has mine set to; 1.0mm out per side frt. 1.5mm in per side rear. Not sure where sway bar set. Stock wheels and OEM tires. not lowered. max downforce
I use 2 mm IN per side rear and zero front....check sway bars and make sure both are in the middle.
Stock camber?
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Old 06-02-2023 | 11:48 AM
  #420  
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Originally Posted by jmartpr
I use 2 mm IN per side rear and zero front....check sway bars and make sure both are in the middle.
Stock camber?
Boy, this is going to really reveal my ignorance. I thought the mm thing was the camber. So not sure about camber. Will check swaybars



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