GT4RS - Track Setup
#272
wear looks pretty good for a Cup 2; I suspect pressures got pretty high and you kept pushing it hard and it blistered. I have found over the years with Cup 2s, albeit on GT3s and RSs, that once pressures hit a certain number not only does the tire not work anymore, but this kind of chunking starts to happen, so no matter how much time is left in the session I simply pull in. This tends to be more an issue in summer however. And at that point the Cup 2s are crap anyway, as they have a rather narrow early window where they are great then start to suck. Thanks for info, look forward to mine this summer.
The following 2 users liked this post by disden:
cafe_racer (03-25-2023),
TRAKCAR (03-28-2023)
#273
Picked up my 4RS today and all I can say OMG !!!. I've owned over 20 Porsches and the 4RS has got to be the best of the lot if you include soul, character, noise in the equation. Its on another level to the 718GT4 I also own especially how reactive the front end is.
Will take it to my specialiat to set it up for track although based on my first drive all it needs is a basic geo with some shims and longer rear toe links. The brake pads on the Steels squeal like a stabbed piglet so new pads are needed.
Will take it to my specialiat to set it up for track although based on my first drive all it needs is a basic geo with some shims and longer rear toe links. The brake pads on the Steels squeal like a stabbed piglet so new pads are needed.
#274
Picked up my 4RS today and all I can say OMG !!!. I've owned over 20 Porsches and the 4RS has got to be the best of the lot if you include soul, character, noise in the equation. Its on another level to the 718GT4 I also own especially how reactive the front end is.
Will take it to my specialiat to set it up for track although based on my first drive all it needs is a basic geo with some shims and longer rear toe links. The brake pads on the Steels squeal like a stabbed piglet so new pads are needed.
Will take it to my specialiat to set it up for track although based on my first drive all it needs is a basic geo with some shims and longer rear toe links. The brake pads on the Steels squeal like a stabbed piglet so new pads are needed.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mavzyx:
matttheboatman (03-25-2023),
Taffy66 (03-26-2023)
#275
wear looks pretty good for a Cup 2; I suspect pressures got pretty high and you kept pushing it hard and it blistered. I have found over the years with Cup 2s, albeit on GT3s and RSs, that once pressures hit a certain number not only does the tire not work anymore, but this kind of chunking starts to happen, so no matter how much time is left in the session I simply pull in. This tends to be more an issue in summer however. And at that point the Cup 2s are crap anyway, as they have a rather narrow early window where they are great then start to suck. Thanks for info, look forward to mine this summer.
#277
I bought a set, but took one look at the rears and decided no way it would fit. I just don't think we can fit more tire in the rear with the factory set up. The Nankang were nearly 1.5" wider and taller too. Sold them.
#278
glad someone else checked before I plunged in. Thanks 👍🏻
The following 3 users liked this post by TDT:
#282
#283
Look at their alignment heights. It looks like they are adding a ton of rake to the car.
Standard ride heights: 109 front 130 rear 21 mm of difference (this is not the actual rake but the relative difference in the measuring points)
Manthey ride heights: 93 front 140 rear 47 mm of difference (that is a hugh difference of 26 mm or a full inch)
There is no way I would every lower the front 16 mm on the standard shocks. You would be at increased risk of blowing out the front shock towers. Maybe they changed the available travel of the Manthey shock pistons to allow this? Or are they just doing what it takes to get the balance they need to run that larger rear wing. I know they crank up the rake on the clubsport to get more front end grip, so that appears to be the plan here as well.
Standard ride heights: 109 front 130 rear 21 mm of difference (this is not the actual rake but the relative difference in the measuring points)
Manthey ride heights: 93 front 140 rear 47 mm of difference (that is a hugh difference of 26 mm or a full inch)
There is no way I would every lower the front 16 mm on the standard shocks. You would be at increased risk of blowing out the front shock towers. Maybe they changed the available travel of the Manthey shock pistons to allow this? Or are they just doing what it takes to get the balance they need to run that larger rear wing. I know they crank up the rake on the clubsport to get more front end grip, so that appears to be the plan here as well.
#284
I think a lot of us could benefit from a clubsport type gurney and maybe an extra bolt hole in the rear wing bracket for a little more AOA (about 3 degrees). This could bump up the rear downforce by about 100 pounds. If one of our venders could make some larger spoiler endplates and conservative canards like the ones in the pictures (about 50 pounds DF), add maybe 5 mm of rake; then we would be set with about 600-650 pounds to total downforce. That is a nice bump over the stock 488 pounds of downforce on the stock GT4 RS.
These are just my postulations based on my past experiences with my car. Dundon has already done similar things to their GT3 and GT4 cars with great results. Mods like this, of course, would have to be tested at the track and adjustments made to get the balance right.
Adding the GT4 RS underbody front aero and increasing the AOA to my rear wing by 3 degrees has made my regular GT4 handle even better. It has a bit over 400 pounds of aero now compared to 330 for the stock car, and you can definitely feel it. So the same strategy can be applied to the 4RS without breaking the piggy bank.
These are just my postulations based on my past experiences with my car. Dundon has already done similar things to their GT3 and GT4 cars with great results. Mods like this, of course, would have to be tested at the track and adjustments made to get the balance right.
Adding the GT4 RS underbody front aero and increasing the AOA to my rear wing by 3 degrees has made my regular GT4 handle even better. It has a bit over 400 pounds of aero now compared to 330 for the stock car, and you can definitely feel it. So the same strategy can be applied to the 4RS without breaking the piggy bank.
Last edited by lovetoturn; 03-31-2023 at 02:51 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Jamipurs (04-18-2023)
#285
How are the factory pads/rotors holding up?
It looks like they also "dimpled" the GT4 RS rotors as opposed to through drilling them. Appears to be the same setup as the 992 GT3's.
Have not seen one "in the wild" yet at VIR yet. There was one earlier this week at the Ingram's private event, but they usually run South Course only.
--Aaron
It looks like they also "dimpled" the GT4 RS rotors as opposed to through drilling them. Appears to be the same setup as the 992 GT3's.
Have not seen one "in the wild" yet at VIR yet. There was one earlier this week at the Ingram's private event, but they usually run South Course only.
--Aaron
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Last edited by KNSBrakes; 03-31-2023 at 03:16 PM.