iammacey

It's more common than you'd think. I have two of my four that are scored. My friend with a GT4 + PCCBs has it as well. I would say any of the cars with that limited clearance will have this happen if you're doing spirited drives. Tires get hot and sticky, gravel gets picked up and bounced around the wheel well, it's inevitable it ends up in the wheel barrel.

It's just part of it though. The wheels get sandblasted, they get scratched/scored. It's part of any big brake kit setup with minimal clearance.

I always clean the barrels and a few times per year pull the wheels and throw them on the wheel stand for deep cleaning.

halfmonkey

Out of all the posts on RL, true that there are very few about damage to barrels due to rocks getting caught between the caliper and barrel but I don't necessarily agree with the scoring being hard to see unless you're on your hands and knees. I'm 6ft and I can stand next to the car and see into the wheel barrels. I have platinum wheels so the scoring would turn the damaged area "silver" like in the picture which would be super noticeable and would bug me to no end. Maybe with PCCB, getting silver may work since no brake dust and if there is scoring, the silver barrel will not highlight the silver area with the platinum or black wheel barrel.

To your other point about snowy areas, I don't think that applies across the board because in SoCal, we don't get any snow except in the local mountains but there certainly are a lot of rocks on the road from poorly maintained roads to potholes to rocks coming from the side of hills and other areas.

Reedy

I have recently started pit crewing for a friend who races his GT2 RS in tarmac rallies and he has had wheel scrapers designed that sweep those small stones clear because he had destroyed enough wheels for a lifetime thanks to this very issue.



Those with a keen eye will also note that those are Surface Transform discs. He keeps the PCCB's as spares.

Granted, his use case is somewhat exceptional. But all it takes is one pebble to trash a wheel rim, and the damage isn't always purely cosmetic either.

Adrift

Thanks; it is tricky to get a meaty thread going on a subject so commonly discussed, although not always productively. I want to thank the people in this thread for good, actionable info.

@Reedy Can you pass along the rock scraper part number, or ask your friend how he had it machined? That sounds like a pretty awesome idea.

Reedy

It’s a bespoke part that was made by the workshops fabricator. Don’t have any part numbers but I might be able to wrangle something. I'm not sure how well the GT2RS design will transfer to the GT4 but I think a lot of the parts in the upright are common across GT4/GT3/GT2 RS, so it might not need much work to make it fit.

Adrift

More pics or any details would be great! Thanks.

It would seem to be tricky, as you don't want the part rubbing the barrel, but you don't want to leave enough room for a rock or even grit to accumulate.

Reedy

Yea it's a fine line, the scraper part is urethane plastic that needs to be replaced occasionally, and it is also specific to the wheels. These scrapers only work with his superforgiata wheels, we need to take them off if he is using the OEM wheels.

Hinz Motorsport

Currently, several compounds from various manufacturers are being tested to pair with the ST rotors. At the time of this writing, the compounds approved by ST are the Pagid RSC1, RSL29, RSL1, and PFC 11. I am still collecting data and feedback regarding other pad options and should have more info soon.

1) In your case, since you will ultimately be switching back to your OE PCCB discs, I would recommend installing new pads with your STs and doing a fresh bedding procedure. CC Rotors are incredibly hard, so you likely are not going to damage the rotors if you have a pad with scoring or something, but in order for the ST rotors to truly work their best, they like a nice even transfer layer.
2) This is the preferred option, yes.
3) Doing all 4 corners together is recommended. From a performance standpoint, you could get away with only doing 1 axle at a time assuming the pad compounds were similar front and rear (i.e. Pagid), but wouldn't recommend running the OE pad on a PCCB disc with say a Pagid pad on the ST disc at the same time. That also only applies to street use, if you are tracking the car then you would definitely want to swap all 4 at the same time.
4) In some cases longer brake lines will also be supplied along with spacers and longer caliper bolts, such as that of the GT3 380mm Iron to 410mm CCST Rotor upgrade. No changes to the electronic systems are required. The installs are very straightforward, and if you already have PCCBs, then it is just like swapping out the OE rotor.

Hope this helps!

Adrift

@Hinz Motorsport Hey Rick, does that mean my spyder upgrade from 380s to 410s in the front would require longer brake lines?

Also, for the refurb of the rotors, approximately how much life is restored, as compared to a new rotor? (ie how long until another refurb is needed, as compared to from new?)

Thanks so much for all your help! You (and CCST) are my leading candidate at this point.

AlpineR

​​​@Reedy oh no love for the spyder

Adrift

GT4 and (718) spyder should be exactly the same, right?

Hinz Motorsport

This certainly would work and there are others who have proposed this as well. Practicality really depends on what you are looking for out of your brakes and how you will be using them. You may find that you don't need to swap back and forth, depending on the compound you use. I understand the resale component of having a nice set of OE PCCBs on the car come selling time. We also know that some want PCCBs for low dust, others for the performance/weight savings, some do it for resale, etc... It is worth mentioning that resale on the ST's could be good as they become more popular, especially when you factor in the ability to refurbish them several times -further increasing their value proposition.

Hinz Motorsport

I apologize if I didn't mention that earlier, but yes you would also receive new hard lines for the front brakes (essentially the PCCB hard lines). The factory PCCB equipped cars would not require any modifications. As we discussed though, since you want Red calipers I think the "Upgrade" kit is the better option over the "Replacement" kit. If someone wants to chime in who knows what a brand new set of PCCB rotors that were pulled off a car sell for on the used market, then perhaps we can make a better decision from a cost standpoint. That assumes one wants to deal with trying to sell their rotors...

Regarding the refurb life, you should see similar life as compared to a new rotor with a slight decrease after the 2nd and 3rd refurb. Again, many factors at play here but these things will last longer than the OE PCCB rotors before needing a refurb. The continuous fiber design is just so much better than the short/chopped fiber design.

skafia

To me, I got PCCB so that I don't have to clean my wheels. Everything else is a bonus.

Bob Z.

I paid $11k for a set of like new take-off PCCB rotors, calipers, pads, etc. )under 1k miles) that went on my 2019 Targa GTS when I had it, and after I sold the Reds that came on my car for $3k the bottom line was if I had ordered the car with them,