Adrift

The ST website just shows ceramics in the same sizes you get with PCCBs (410F/400R). Can the calipers for the steel braking system be made to work with that size? (Again, as I stated above, I don't know how caliper mounting relates to rotor size) I will email them and ask how that might work.

iammacey

Call Hinz Motorsport to verify. They are also here on Rennlist. You have the parts option to replace or upgrade, depending on your cars setup. This part, as you read the description, is specific to Red caliper/iron rotor cars.

https://hinzmotorsport.com/collectio...410x36mm-front

These can be resurfaced up to three times for approximately $2400. You will get a better rotor. Just as lightweight.

Personally, I would do irons, with red or black calipers, then swap on the STs. You'll spend a bit more on the setup, but have a ton of options and flexibility with better performance and a lower total cost over time. Plus, you don't have the concerns of PCCBs and their replacement cost. Which is some peace of mind.

No one pays attention to the brakes you run at the track. I see plenty of GT cars on the track with PCCBs. Plenty with irons. No one is thinking anything about what the other person is doing with regards to brake rotors.

Westcoast

Since you are asking, that means that you want them, so stop asking and just check the damn box!

Adrift

$2400 to resurface the set of 4 rotors? Or per pair? How long is the car "down" while the rotors get shipped to the UK, resurfaced, and shipped back? (So many questions Sorry) Update: Nevermind, I see the answers on the Hinz website.

I saw the upgrade part, and wondered if that is what that was for. But I still am missing the piece about how you "move" the calipers from their 380 position to work with 410/400. How do the calipers mount, and how do they get "moved" for different sized rotors? I will try Hinz.

Thanks!

MaddMike

I had specced mine with irons and now this thread has me reconsidering...

mslam02

Does anyone have any data on how many street miles the ST rotors are getting before needing a resurface?

iammacey

It's $2400 to resurface all four rotors. As I understand it, Hinz can handle the resurfacing. They indicate in the description it's a 10 day turnaround. So some downtime, sure, but you could just throw your OE rotors on the car during that window. They gauge 4000 track miles before it's needed and doing 4 track days a year isn't going to get you there anytime soon.

Get some Tarett caliper studs/brake line studs and install those so you don't have to risk cross threading the caliper bolts and getting new caliper bolts with every removal.

As for fitment, you get the hardware to retain the red calipers. I would assume they include a bracket and lines to reposition the OE caliper and accommodate the larger rotor.

Contacting Hinz is the right call for sure.

Congrats on locking in the order soon and what sounds like delivery late June/early July?

enduro

In addition to the studs, I believe the option also exists to get some braided lines to replace the hard lines so you don't have to open the hydraulic system every time you swap pads.

Westcoast

Or go with ST rotor CC replacements at $6325 per axel... just check the box!

daaa nope

While I wouldn't consider myself "anti-PCCB".... I've generally been negative on the subject, both in my own build, and to that of friends doing their own spec'ing.

BUT - my tone might be changing. With ~12,000 miles on my car now (with steel brakes), the rotors are already showing some wear with a decent lip around the outside edge. I haven't bothered to check the pad thickness yet. I'm a little surprised - but maybe I shouldn't be? No track time on the car, 3 autocrosses, and one day spent in the mountains (200 miles or so of admittedly fairly aggressive driving).

$8k is a steep price for the upgrade to PCCBs. But thinking perhaps the fact that, with street use, they are at least rumored to last the life of the car... if, by some chance, my current Spyder is NOT a "forever" car and I spec another... I may just opt for PCCBs. My only real remaining true fear with PCCBs is the potential for rotor damage. I swap wheels regularly (I have a separate set just for autocross) and I would be extremely paranoid of banging a wheel off one of the rotors and costing myself some serious financial pain...

Westcoast

I would guess that I take my wheels on/off almost monthly, by 2 hanger pins and some etha foam as a protective cushion and carry on... I started out with a fair amount of trepidation but now feel comfortable with the process.

halfmonkey

I'll chime to add that this option was the most debated in my household (more so with myself than anybody else in the household. ) I did discuss it a little bit with my wife but she doesn't know anything about cars so at the end of the day, she just said get what you think is best. Ultimately, I decided on the steelies and I'll share my pros and cons for you to consider if any of these points hasn't crossed your mind yet.

PCCB
1. a "bargain" at $8k for factory option since the replacements are over $24k for all 4.
2. more prone to wheel barrel scoring since the gap from caliper to barrel is much smaller due to larger size of brake rotors.
3. less unsprung weight
4. no brake dust
5. more delicate as subject to possible damage when mounting wheel if striking rotor with wheel but you can use wheel mounting guides to help avoid this scenario
6. potential for some serious brake squeal (some people report no noise but others report serious noise as I've also seen on some YT videos)
7. the extremely large rotors look fantastic behind the wheels and look all business
8. longer use life

Steelies
1. the brake dust is insane, especially if you have the silver wheels
2. much less expensive to replace a set of 4 when the time comes
3. still an "upgrade" since the brakes came from previous gen GT3
4. no brake squeal on my car
5. ceramic coating can help with brake dust but won't eliminate

I have the platinum wheels and maybe someone like my wife who doesn't know anything about cars don't notice that the wheels are covered in brake dust but I know it and see it. The platinum wheels help to "hide" the dust but I can clearly see the difference between a clean wheel and dirty wheel whereas my wife probably can't. On a silver wheel, I don't see how anyone could miss a dirty brake dust covered wheel. It's a lot of brake dust. My wheels are ceramic coated so it makes it fairly easy to clean. Spraying it down with a pressure washer gets the top layer of dust off and then I hand wash the wheels, brake caliper and barrel to get it perfectly clean.

I will add that I've never had PCCB as this is my first car that I've owned where CCB was even an option. Is there a little bit of regret in me for not getting the PCCB? Yes. Since my last name isn't Schumacher and I won't be able to "feel" the difference in the less unsprung weight, what I'm really paying for is the no brake dust, looks of a more serious braking system, and longer use life. Out of those 3 items, the really only tangible point for me is the no brake dust so I passed since "longer use life" is hard to quantify/define. As I said, the brake dust is no joke so maybe I should have stepped up (which is why I have a little bit of regret but then I'll worry about the barrel scoring or rotor damage.)

iammacey

I'm not sure I understand and not being combative. I've never replaced hard lines on a car, but do run steel braided lines on my Fiesta ST, for example. I have swapped pads several times on the 981 GT4 and I can't count the times I swap them on the Fiesta. I've never needed open the hydraulic system for this. Typically steel braided lines replace the rubber/soft lines that go from the hard lines to the calipers.

*If the pads are worn and the pistons need to be pressed back in, I'll open the bleeder valve when pushing the pistons in to collect fluid and avoid it going back into the master cylinder. But there is nothing about a pad swap that would require interacting with the hard lines that I'm aware.

If I am missing something with regards to the GT4 or Porsches in general, definitely interested in learning.

enduro

@iammacey I might be wrong as I only took off mine once when I added the AP set, but as opposed to brakes I've had in the past which have a soft line between the spindle and the caliper, which facilitates hanging the caliper from a zip tie while you do other stuff, the GT4 has hard lines connecting the caliper to a mount on the spindle, then a soft line from spindle to body. Looked to me like you have to disconnect the hard lines from the caliper anytime you remove the caliper, and to change brake pads with OEM calipers, you have to remove the calipers.

Maybe the mentioned brake line studs work around this.

enduro

Or maybe there is a method involves leaving the hard lines on the caliper and loosening the bracket which locates the soft line and some wiring? I recall it looking like a PITA, but again, only one brake wrench turning experience with this car under my belt, and my objective was to remove the calipers.