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GT Car Alignment Specs - Share your set-up / knowledge

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Old 07-31-2022, 07:08 PM
  #1021  
ExMB
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Originally Posted by lovetoturn
I went from 11-12 minutes to 14-15 minutes on the rear for my last alignment along with the stiffer swift front springs. Car is much more stable under braking now and even better in the high speed sweepers too. That equates to about 2mm going to 2.5mm. I think either number can work for those who frequent the track. Most of my driving is to the track or on it, so tire wear is not an issue. They wear out before there is any unevenness. I do have TPC toe links as well. Maybe 3 mm is too much for most, but it should be at least 1-2 mm of toe in for the rear depending on your driving preferences. For reference, I believe the GT4 Clubsport cars run about 15-17 minutes of toe in for the rear axle.
What is your reference point for your minute to mm toe conversion number? If you use the OEM tire OD of 27" you get 3mm for 15 minutes or .25 degree. If you use the OEM 20" wheel DIA you get 2.2 mm for 15 minutes or .25 degrees using trigonometry.
Old 07-31-2022, 07:20 PM
  #1022  
jreifler
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Originally Posted by aarodynamics
Are you running a 295/35-19?
What is the wheel size and offset you're running?
Forgeline GA1R 19x11, ET47.

Also, to clarify on an early message - my last alignment was closer to 2.1 mm toe-in per side in the rear, which was what BGB recommended.
Old 08-01-2022, 01:39 AM
  #1023  
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Originally Posted by jreifler
Forgeline GA1R 19x11, ET47.

Also, to clarify on an early message - my last alignment was closer to 2.1 mm toe-in per side in the rear, which was what BGB recommended.
I am running basically the same Forgeline size from BGB but in VX1Rs. John always knows his stuff. I am sure your car handles well.

Last edited by lovetoturn; 08-01-2022 at 01:50 AM.
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Old 08-01-2022, 01:50 AM
  #1024  
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Originally Posted by TRZ06
When talking about toe settings, it would be helpful to keep the unit of measure consistent. You talk about MM, then move to minutes. I think it would be helpful for those who are not well versed on how alignment measurements works to stay with a common denominator.

I still get lost when converting MM to minutes, to degrees, to inches.
Well I am trying to help out both parties here. About half the people seem to quote toe in mm and the other half in minutes, so I gave everyone both. Not sure the confusion here. If I don't quote both here, then half of will wonder what it means to them. For reference, considering 26.3 inch tall 19s like on my car or 27.0 inch tall tires on OEM wheels, the toe conversion is about 6 minutes = 1 mm. Yes, it varies a bit with wheel size, but for our size tires just mentioned this is an easy and convenient way to interchange the numbers. A long time ago I figured it out exact, but I always remember it to be rounded off to a ratio of about 6 to1.

Hope this helps. Edited post #1019.

Last edited by lovetoturn; 08-02-2022 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 08-01-2022, 05:10 AM
  #1025  
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Originally Posted by lovetoturn
I went from 11-12 minutes to 14-15 minutes on the rear for my last alignment along with the stiffer swift front springs. Car is much more stable under braking now and even better in the high speed sweepers too. That equates to about 2mm going to 2.5mm. I think either number can work for those who frequent the track. Most of my driving is to the track or on it, so tire wear is not an issue. They wear out before there is any serious unevenness. I do have TPC toe links as well. For reference, I believe the GT4 Clubsport cars run about 15-17 minutes of toe in for the rear axle.

Maybe 3 mm (18 minutes) is too much for most as mentioned above, but it should be at least 1-2 mm (6-12 minutes) of toe in for the rear depending on your driving preferences.

All numbers mentioned here are per wheel, so you can double any of the numbers to get the total toe. There are of course 60 minutes in 1 degree, so for the example above, 12 minutes equals 12/60 or .2 degrees. It just amazes me how much difference there is between .1 and .2 degrees of toe-in on the rear end of the car when driven at the limits. Again we are talking about tenths of a degree, but when you are going 100+ mph it doesn't take much.
Great post and thank you for sharing this so clearly. It sounds like we both ended up at the same rear toe-in settings of 2.5mm per side with TPC offset toe links resulting in a stable rear under braking.

The rear toe spec you mentioned for the Clubsport sound close to the 3mm of toe-in per side I was recommending with non-offset toe links which makes sense given Clubsports typically wouldn't be swapping toe links to comply with competition rules/regs.

I found anything less than my recommendations above to significantly negatively impact my lap times and confidence on track.

The 1-2mm of toe-in per side should be considered a minimum and is fine for dual-purpose street/track or pure street cars that aren't driven near-limit on the track. With that said, I personally would still go for the minimums I recommended above instead and just consider tires the cost of doing business for a stable rear end on a Cayman.

Last edited by aarodynamics; 08-01-2022 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 08-01-2022, 07:11 PM
  #1026  
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Well said. I like a precise buttoned down rear end......and that works well for other things in life too.

If you drive regularly at the track, you will be going through a few sets of tires per year anyway. If your car is setup properly for your driving style and ability, then the tires should wear evenly during there relatively short lifespan. If you drove a lot of road miles, yes you would wear out the inside edge of the rear tires with 2.5-3 mm of rear toe in, but again people with that much rear toe in tend to go through tires rather quickly.
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Old 08-01-2022, 07:19 PM
  #1027  
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Originally Posted by lovetoturn
Well said. I like a precise buttoned down rear end......and that works well for other things in life too.

If you drive regularly at the track, you will be going through a few sets of tires per year anyway. If your car is setup properly for your driving style and ability, then the tires should wear evenly during there relatively short lifespan. If you drove a lot of road miles, yes you would wear out the inside edge of the rear tires with 2.5-3 mm of rear toe in, but again people with that much rear toe in tend to go through tires rather quickly.
On slicks, with significant front and rear camber, I obviously get more inside wear. But by the time it would otherwise be a factor, the tires are starting to cord / cycle out and ready for replacement anyway. So, I'm all about as much grip as possible given it's a pure track car. I'd probably go more conservative on most settings if tire longevity and street drivability were priorities.
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Old 08-01-2022, 07:23 PM
  #1028  
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Originally Posted by jreifler
I'd probably go more conservative on most settings if tire longevity and street drivability were priorities.
I think every Cayman owner should get up to 80mph on the freeway, stomp on the brake pedal enough to engage ABS immediately, feel their rear end wiggle, and decide if they're comfortable with that even for street driving. For me, stabilizing the rear end would personally be worth a cost increase in tire consumables even for street driving since you never know when you're going to need to stomp on the brakes.

Last edited by aarodynamics; 08-01-2022 at 07:37 PM.
Old 08-01-2022, 07:27 PM
  #1029  
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Originally Posted by aarodynamics
I think every Cayman owner should get up to 80mph on the freeway, stomp on the brake pedal, feel their rear end wiggle, and decide if they're comfortable with that even for street driving. For me, stabilizing the rear end would personally be worth a cost increase in tire consumables even for street driving since you never know when you're going to need to stomp on the brakes.
Don't disagree. Just stating my own relative priorities. I sure AF was NOT comfortable with it wiggling around from 120mph while trying to setup for a tight 40-50mph turn. FWIW, probably negligible compared to stiffer springs, toe-in, and solid bushings / bearings, but increased aero will help a bit there too.
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Old 08-01-2022, 09:37 PM
  #1030  
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I’m amazed at the amount of detail in this thread. We don’t setup open wheel race cars with this level of alignment intricacy. Amazed it makes that much difference on a 3200lb road car.

The wiggle under braking in the GT4 has never bothered me on track but maybe it’s costing me time under braking. I also agree with the comment that if the car isn’t moving around on you then you’re just not going fast enough. It’s amazing watching a fast track day guy get in the passenger seat of a fast race car guy (which I’m not.)

Last edited by Bents; 08-01-2022 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 08-01-2022, 09:44 PM
  #1031  
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Originally Posted by Bents
I’m amazed at the amount of detail in this thread. We don’t setup open wheel race cars with this level of alignment intricacy. Amazed it makes that much difference on a 3200lb road car.

The wiggle under braking in the GT4 has never bothered me on track but maybe it’s costing me time under braking.
Well, we all want to “win” our DEs. LOL. I had a 987 race car that taught me how much of a difference proper setup can make. For me, the instability under threshold braking was pretty substantial. Enough to make me uncomfortable in high speed braking sections of a track. My car is way more stable now. More stable = more confidence = quicker times and more enjoyment. It’s odd that Porsche didn’t address these things from the factory, but not unusual. They have to strike a balance knowing that even their “track” cars won’t be used as such by the majority of purchasers.
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Old 08-02-2022, 12:39 AM
  #1032  
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And Porsche knows that we exist to extract that last bit of performance that they had to leave on the table to satisfy the world market and make the car durable and warrantable. Somebody from Porsche also reads all this stuff, particularly these types of threads, and smiles, and thinks , they get it too… they are just like us.

Lots of great comments here.

Last edited by lovetoturn; 08-02-2022 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 08-02-2022, 11:46 AM
  #1033  
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What exactly cause the wiggle under hard braking, which components and why?
Old 08-02-2022, 12:08 PM
  #1034  
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Originally Posted by Westcoast
What exactly cause the wiggle under hard braking, which components and why?
Weight transfer to the front causes the rear to get light. This in turn causes toe changes.
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Old 08-02-2022, 12:14 PM
  #1035  
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Originally Posted by Bents
I’m amazed at the amount of detail in this thread. We don’t setup open wheel race cars with this level of alignment intricacy. Amazed it makes that much difference on a 3200lb road car.
Ya, I've heard that a few times. I wager pro drivers are often very skilled at driving around the car instead of making the car adjust around them. They're given a car, sometimes have to jockey what they're given. Or alternatively, the team support makes lots of opportunity for on the fly adjustments regular enthusiasts don't have. So get it close, do some recon laps, make some adjustments until they like how it feels...

That said, whether or not overspecified, this thread was a great resource for me to get mine in a good spot, and after the mods & one iteration of adjustment I did, the car drives very differently than before, in a good way.
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