incursion

Here's my first alignment:

street

sorry if this has already been posted, but anyone know what Shim thickness coincides with the 2nd and 3rd most aggressive setup listed? The pic is from 2 track days. I felt the push and adjusted to stop the understeer. Bumped up pressures and poof...no tires. The rears are only slightly better. Was keeping two 981 Club Sports in sight through parts of the track

. But that Spyder has zip downforce. Back end wanted to walk around in a corner I take flat out in my older car.

enduro

I did shims (7mm IIRC), clubsport camber plates, and camber adjustable solid bushings up front for -3.1°, however I'm running Tarett monoballs which I believe reduce the amount of shims required. The whole list prob isn't necessary, but I wanted my camber to stay reasonable, and I'm running 255/35 19 up front on 19x9 ET50 with very decent fender to tire clearance, might bump up to 265s next round. Unsure if you can get to 3° up front without camber plates while not having rubbing probs.

For another car with stock inner control arms, my shop told me it took maxing out the shims (18mm) to get 2.5° in the back.

Tarett and others sell shim kits with various thicknesses; I picked up one and supplied it to my shop ahead of my alignment.

street

Thanks a ton. Only looking for 2.0 to 2.3 out back.
18 mm is two 7's plus a 4! Are the bolts long enough?!

enduro

They told me it was 'maxed out'. If you look up and down this thread, there's prob more complete answers WRT the min front and parts required; at some point, I think in this thread, a more experienced track guy spelled out the minimum for me; I went above and beyond because I'm being particular about setup and wanted monoballs.

Josh_357

Higher pressure could be part of the problem, are those the dunlops?

my specs here are close to the 50/50 DSC setup.

https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...l#post18134842

street

Higher pressures preserved the sidewalls, especially during tire warm up.

They are in deed Sport Maxx what Shims did you install?

batasrki

Sorry if this is off topic, but have those that made suspension changes found that the steering feel is better when compared to stock?

I’ve done ~3500 km in my BGTS 4.0 so far, and the one big complaint I have with the steering feel is that the steering doesn’t load up when turning into a corner. I have no sense of weight transfer through the wheel.

I’ve read that caster angle changes can help with that and this thread is full of setups that also change the caster angle.

Josh_357

Front LCA 6mm shims (Stock top mounts pulled most of the way in)
Rear LCA 4mm shims
Rear Tarett adjustable toe links

High pressures also reduce contact patch and decrease load spreading over the tire and cause localized heating. Pressure might not be a play here, first time I've heard someone delam the Dunlop SM2.

lovetoturn

Generally speaking, overheating the outside edge of the tire is due to one, some, or all of the following: not enough camber, overall under inflation of the tires, driving the car too hard in the first few laps when the tire pressure has not come to spec, rolling too much speed into the corner, excessive understeer that causes the front tires to work too hard to turn the car while the rear end just follow along. A mouth full, but some thoughts to chew on when at the track next time. Obviously to decrease outer tire edge wear, one would have to reduce as many of the above applicable situations with your car and driving style as possible.

street

Yes, my understanding as well. I adjusted my driving stop any push. Higher pressures do help sidewall wear, especially on tire warm up.

lovetoturn

While I am posting up stuff, here is a table on the various sway bar specs for our GT4s. The numbers were based on what someone else posted some time ago, but seem to be realistic from what I can tell. Even if the absolute numbers are off by a bit the relativity between them still stands and is the point of this table. This is why I like making one hole adjustments instead full two hole adjustments. The differences are in the 18-27 ft/lbs range for a one hole change instead of the 36-53 ft/lbs range for a two hole change. I could definitely feel the subtle change moving from MM to MS in the rear at only 18 pounds. If you are moving two holes at a time you may overshoot the adjustment you were looking for.

I have posted this on the Manthey thread for future reference.

enduro

Absolutely. My car drives very differently than as delivered, in a way I like.

Inrev

This is super interesting. I've been running med/med with a 19in 265/305 setup and find that the front are a tad too grippy and the rears overheat and wear out/heat cycle faster, making the car a bit oversteery as the tires wear out. I'm thinking of making the rears slightly softer to better balance grip and overall wear. I also notice that even at 31psi hot the insides of the rear tires wear faster, so more lateral tire play from the softer bar may increase outer tire edge grip and spare the middle. (Will also aim for 29psi hot for the AR-1) A bit of understeer would also help me trail brake deeper in the corners. I will try Front Medium rear Medium/Soft

TRZ06

That's good for steady state, but I find that the more lateral play there is, the sloppier the car feels in quick maneuvers or transitions.