GT Car Alignment Specs - Share your set-up / knowledge
#211
I really appreciate your advice. I already have a DSC Sport since it was in my last GT4 and I kept it figuring I'd end up with another GT4.
Keeping in mind I said I know zip, zilch, nada about anything, would I need 2, and only 2, of the 10mm shims found here?
I'll do some digging for the alignment specs. What is on the DSC Sport site is a bit confusing.
Keeping in mind I said I know zip, zilch, nada about anything, would I need 2, and only 2, of the 10mm shims found here?
I'll do some digging for the alignment specs. What is on the DSC Sport site is a bit confusing.
I am keen to know what exact shims are required to get to these settings. Also if anything else is needed to keep the front wheels centred in the wells. Or if that can be achieved using the standard adjustments. Some photos in this thread show some pretty extreme differences in caster between cars.
#212
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Same question here. Once I’ve got the TPC toe links I’ll be aiming to run the DSC 50/50 street/track setting. That’s 0 toe front, 1mm per side rear toe in and 2.5/2.0 front/rear camber.
I am keen to know what exact shims are required to get to these settings. Also if anything else is needed to keep the front wheels centred in the wells. Or if that can be achieved using the standard adjustments. Some photos in this thread show some pretty extreme differences in caster between cars.
I am keen to know what exact shims are required to get to these settings. Also if anything else is needed to keep the front wheels centred in the wells. Or if that can be achieved using the standard adjustments. Some photos in this thread show some pretty extreme differences in caster between cars.
YMMV, but here are my two posts in this thread about what I had installed.
post# 176 :https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...l#post17259959
post# 106: https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...l#post16995794
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porscheflat6 (03-23-2021)
#213
I applaud your honesty regarding knowledge and background with this stuff, you should really have the shop that is doing this work to make these suggestions, I am running pretty much the spec you are looking for, IMHO to do it right shims is not all you will need. Centering the wheels is another part of this.
YMMV, but here are my two posts in this thread about what I had installed.
post# 176 :https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...l#post17259959
post# 106: https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...l#post16995794
YMMV, but here are my two posts in this thread about what I had installed.
post# 176 :https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...l#post17259959
post# 106: https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...l#post16995794
#214
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It is but really not too bad, cheaper than the exhaust, or the second set of tires and wheels too and every time you drive your car you will be smiling, guaranteed!
I talked to my suspension guy, we discussed what I was looking for, he described what I could get with each step/part that was changed or adjusted and why certain parts were either needed or made sense given the objectives set. Next I called RSS and talked to Mike gave him the reader's digest version of the first discussion and he confirmed we had the right approach and we put together an order, it was nice to have it all installed at the same time then adjusted and aligned to the spec I showed...
As it turned out the settings are similar to what RSS, DSC and BGB are calling out, not exactly of course but no two of those posting here seem to be, tire/wheels and widths, tire compounds, type of track, amount of track versus street driving all warrant slightly different setups. Good luck!
I talked to my suspension guy, we discussed what I was looking for, he described what I could get with each step/part that was changed or adjusted and why certain parts were either needed or made sense given the objectives set. Next I called RSS and talked to Mike gave him the reader's digest version of the first discussion and he confirmed we had the right approach and we put together an order, it was nice to have it all installed at the same time then adjusted and aligned to the spec I showed...
As it turned out the settings are similar to what RSS, DSC and BGB are calling out, not exactly of course but no two of those posting here seem to be, tire/wheels and widths, tire compounds, type of track, amount of track versus street driving all warrant slightly different setups. Good luck!
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Reedy (03-23-2021)
#215
First post but I have been looking in here for quite some time. I wondered whether I could ask folks advice on ‘fast road’ (as opposed to track) set up please?
My target / thought was :
Front: camber -2° 10' / toe: +4'
Rear: camber -1° 40' / toe: +14'
However, in stock form (i.e. no additional shims or toe links), my local indie was only able to get around 1° at the rear with the +14' toe, and because I asked for the front to be 30 minutes more than rear, set the front to 1° 30'. The car feels okay, but I wondering whether it would benefit from more camber - i.e. another 0.5° front and back and more inline with my original target?
Excuse my ignorance, but would adding rear shims alone allow me to get nearer to -1° 40' at the rear (with +14' toe)? Or are rear toe links the only option? Also, if shims alone would work, what size would I need – 5 / 7mm ??? (I'm assuming just over -2° at the front would be easily achievable with shims).
Thanks
My target / thought was :
Front: camber -2° 10' / toe: +4'
Rear: camber -1° 40' / toe: +14'
However, in stock form (i.e. no additional shims or toe links), my local indie was only able to get around 1° at the rear with the +14' toe, and because I asked for the front to be 30 minutes more than rear, set the front to 1° 30'. The car feels okay, but I wondering whether it would benefit from more camber - i.e. another 0.5° front and back and more inline with my original target?
Excuse my ignorance, but would adding rear shims alone allow me to get nearer to -1° 40' at the rear (with +14' toe)? Or are rear toe links the only option? Also, if shims alone would work, what size would I need – 5 / 7mm ??? (I'm assuming just over -2° at the front would be easily achievable with shims).
Thanks
Last edited by 982GT4; 03-25-2021 at 11:51 AM.
#216
7mm shims gave me about 35' of camber front, and rear is the same suspension so no differences.
You are the one with least rear camber here, I couldn't get better than -1°20' (no shims, just eccentric bolt) but with less toe than you, I suppose.
If you add 7mm on the rear I am almost sure you need toe links...
You are the one with least rear camber here, I couldn't get better than -1°20' (no shims, just eccentric bolt) but with less toe than you, I suppose.
If you add 7mm on the rear I am almost sure you need toe links...
#217
For those with soft front / hard rear sway bars... how is that specific setting compared to stock? I am scared about less initial turn in response from soft front bar and less traction with rear hard bar. I don't have toe links, neither DSC, but I have -2° front camber and -1.5° rear. Sway bars still in middle setting. I don't track my car but I hate understeer.
Last edited by Trj; 03-25-2021 at 01:49 PM.
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dnimi123 (03-25-2021)
#219
Depends on driving styles and tracks...the sway bar adjustment is just a band aid to the understeer problem and you could be inviting other issues.
I was able to run my 981 in middle/middle various years once I got the suspension dial in with the correct wheels/tires.
I was able to run my 981 in middle/middle various years once I got the suspension dial in with the correct wheels/tires.
#220
i kept my track alignment settings in the street but i only change sway bar settings when switching from track to street and vise-versa. I really recommend everyone to try this as it makes a difference!
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dnimi123 (03-26-2021)
#221
Randy Pobst would disagree... but what does he know about driving the GT4!
Last edited by dnimi123; 03-26-2021 at 01:08 AM.
#222
I'm going to go with -3.5 degrees of camber up front with 0 toe and -3 degrees of camber in the rear with 1mm toe in along with full soft sways on the front and full stiff in the rear. I'm putting in all mono bits including camber plates and caster pucks so I can dial the caster back in. I'll pair all that with the DSC and see how it goes.
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porscheflat6 (03-31-2021)
#223
to add to your info, you also will notice on full soft front n rear that for street driving is excellent imh experience and you don’t even need to leave them in middle. You notice that especially when going over speed bumps or small potholes.
i kept my track alignment settings in the street but i only change sway bar settings when switching from track to street and vise-versa. I really recommend everyone to try this as it makes a difference!
i kept my track alignment settings in the street but i only change sway bar settings when switching from track to street and vise-versa. I really recommend everyone to try this as it makes a difference!
#224
I am interested in your street experience with full soft front and rear sway bars. Any cons? How is traction in straight line and fast curves? How is understeer? How is it over bumpy roads? How is it in the wet? Thank you!!! I have a Spyder that I don’t track but I drive it very hard on mountain roads.
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alwaysdriving (03-26-2021),
phefner (03-26-2021)
#225
Just get the DSC controller and the TPC toe links and follow their alignment setup for the street. Much better than stock and a good solid starting point with little or no downsides. Understeer is gone. Turn is great, Straight line is perfect. High speed is super stable. Bumps are smoothed out. Curves a blast at 25% more speed and no tail wag and a perfectly balanced mid engine car. Its the way the car should have been but Porsche screwed the car from the factory. Fortunately this is the fix for most people.