frosty911

work of art right there.

kart125

Now you got me scared!! I dont trust the overpasses in Laval since Concorde/Souvenir incidents and now I doubt the tunnel! I'm stuck in my neigborhood!

GAZZ

One sensor opening is not actually in the exhaust stream, its blocked off. The idea being to avoid an error code by tricking the sensor. I had this, it still gave errors so I went back to stock.

Westcoast

Really? I could try them on my car if you like... just to confirm!

jcmer22

I have the soul OAP w/ valve controller and I’m interested considering the JCR silenced valved set up. How do you like it?
Is it quiet enough with valves closed to not bother neighbors?

kart125

Really happy with my setup's sound level and tone (High pitched "exotic" sound at higher revs) as well as modularity in valve operation. With valves closed and the silenced exhaust it is quiet enough not to bother neighbors. With valves open it is still OK AFTER cold startup cycle if you dont rev too much.

Cold startup with valves open is epic!

Westcoast

Not kart125 but I also have a similar set up and can add some comments... I have a Cargraphic valve controller, Akra link-pipe and JCR valved Silenced rear section (no silencer tips).

This configuration is pretty much Jekyll & Hyde.

With the valves held open and an aggressive throttle the system is quite intense with a perfect note and volume with those looking for the flat-6 wail, even a few crackles and pops on overrun, for reference my local track said my Spyder was measuring 92dB/A when driven hard. As kart125 just posted, cold startup is awesome, you won't be able to hide the smile.

With the controller set to allow the PSE to control the valves and PSE set to the off position the sound is largely subdued, very livable and minimal drone, when driven respectfully (for your neighbors) the sound is refined and not aggressive at all in the lower RPM range (below 4000), neighborhood friendly! Even with PSE off the system gets a little more boisterous if driven hard and as you get above 4000 RPM, you'll know there is an exhaust on the car but nothing like it sounds like with the valves open...

kart125

Totally agree with Westcoast!

rp2000r

My non-silenced JCR pipe should arrive tomorrow.
Excited to install it and looking for any install tips.

From what I have read I’ll need a E12 torx socket.
Sounds like best bet is to have the connections on the JCR pipe loose to help adjust for fitting then tighten her up.

I want to run with valves/stock PSE do I just unplug lines and replug in valves? Any trick to it?

Rookie at working on Porsches so any info is much appreciated!

SpyderSwede

As a matter of interest how long did you have to wait for your JCR pipe , from payment to delivery ?

GTChamp

I would also love to know total time since payment. I ordered my silenced with inconel tip exhaust end of Feb and it still hasn’t shipped. Getting worried 😟

JCR-Porsche

We have a batch of 40x Silenced in production right now, we will be getting these out ASAP.

As many are aware supply on certain materials has been a real challenge but we're working through it to the best of our abilities now things are starting to settle and there will be a big drop of Silenced 718's heading out to customers imminently

Any concerns at all please feel free to email me directly at jonny@jcr-developments.com but im sure you will feel the wait is worth it once parts arrive which im expecting will be very soon

JC

Reedy

Thanks for the update, I was about to follow up on the status of my order as I placed it a couple of months ago. My car is still 2 months away but I wanna hang this thing up on the wall until it arrives!

rp2000r

Shipping & supply issues are hurting a lot of businesses worldwide. JCR/Jonny has been great and kept me updated the whole time!

Westcoast

Yes, IIRC the E12 is for the bracket that attaches to the rear of the transmission. What I did was to assemble the JCR system on the bench to be as close as possible to the correct orientation and shape but leave everything just loose enough to be able to slide or twist pipes into position. I struggled with getting the pipes to sit into that transmission bracket, on my first attempt it seemed miles away, even asked Jonny about it because I figured something was out of whack, in the end it wasn't. I had to message it into place and initially it was sitting up high almost touching the heat shields until it was fully mated to the trans bracket, Jonny explained that the OEM OAP's tend to spring up when the stock rear section is removed, that seem to be the case with mine. Because everything was so tight during this first install all of the JCR pipes needed to be close as under tension you can't really just slide them around, hence my suggestion to get it together on the bench first. After a bit of careful calm pushing and prodding everything moved into place with the appropriate clearances and alignment.

Interesting that about 6 weeks later when I received the titanium OAP pipes to replace the OEM units the process was a whole lot easier, I though that when I loosened the bolts everything would spring back up but nothing moved at all, the rear section (minus the tips) simply rotated down and out from under the car leaving the OAP's in place. Once the new OAP's were in place I lifted the JCR rear section back into place (it is snug but doable by yourself) and it aligned perfectly with the OAP's, this time the trans bracket slipped in and on without any effort at all and the spacing to the heat shields was perfect, all I can think it that everything relaxed in the new positions and after multiple heat cycles was happy in its current position. Below is what Jonny sent me as steps to take to help get things into place:Other tips for an easy install, get the car up, a lift is preferred, maybe get a hand to take down the OEM rear section as it is heavy. Have not only 3/8" drive sockets and handles available but 1/4" as well, spacing is tight all around this system but especially the nuts on the OAP at the filter end, I also had an assortment of regular and gear drive hand wrenches on hand for the job, No nuts were baked on as the car is too new for that so no worries there.

So regarding the valves and the vacuum lines, use a tool like I show below to remove the line, the clamps are tight but the did allow the hose to come off without removing them. The vacuum inlet nipple on the JCR system is a larger diameter than the OEM unit, I found that I could open the hard plastic tube just enough with an awl to get it to go onto the JCR valve, I bought a kit of Oetikner clamps to re-secure the line as the OEM clamps will not fit over the larger nipple, recently I found that Home Depot sells a very similar clamp for plastic plumbing that should do the trick: Apollo 3/8 in. Stainless Steel PEX Barb Pinch Clamp (10-Pack)-PXPC3810PK - The Home Depot ...just ensure that you get the right diameter.

Some pictures to help sow the seeds! HTH.


not quite in the correct position

When everything is messaged into place the bracket lines up

the tool I used to slide off the vacuum line

OEM clams, I tried open them up, not worth the effort...

Oetiker kit from Amazon

Home Depot PEX clamps