Fogey1

Kind of an oldie but goodie. I remember Wally Plumley had written on this, but I couldn't find it, so I wrote to some anti-seize manufacturers:

I got an answer from NevrSeez:

And from LocTite:

The 1 oz. tube of Permatex (113a) I bought at AutoZone yesterday contains "A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants." I note it's nickel-free.
http://permatex.com/products/Automot...ubricant_a.htm

I wrote to several other anti-seize manufacturers, too. If they answer, I'll update.

SharkSkin

The rule of thumb I use is to use the graphite-based stuff on most steel-in-steel applications, Copper on steel-in-aluminum, and nickel on high-temp fasteners like the exhaust system. In the past, I used the graphite based stuff on everything with no ill effects. I have used it on my 928 lugnuts and have had no issue there in 5 years.

Ad0911

I noticed the ol' coppergrease on the pins that hold the rear shocks. This is a steel pin that tightly fits into the aluminium hubs. And it was really tight. One of them still won't let go after considerable efforts. I need a press.
What makes these pins fit so tightly? The one that still sits also will not turn. Is the coppergrease not suitable for steel-in-aluminium? From the above I conclude that it is a suitable anti-seize lubricant.

hacker-pschorr

I use Wurth products like CU 800:

http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wur...-08938001.html

and CU 1100:

http://wurthindustry.thomasnet.com/i...-8132?&seo=110

blown 87

That is what I use also.

911tracker85

thanks for this thread. I was going to have to search as I just got steel lugs for my alum wheels on my track 911. I have some of the alum anitseize but know it is not appropriate for many applications.

Fogey1

The NevrSeez response said that the ingredient to avoid was nickel. I'd love more engineer's inputs.

Thanks for the Wurth's refs.

Jim M.

Antiseize: Copper antiseize (C5-a) copper and graphite in high quality grease. Protects metal from corrosion, galling and seizing at temps to 1800°F. Zinc antiseize: Protects aluminum and ferrous surfaces from seizure and corrosion up to 700°F. Silver antiseize: Heavy-duty, temperature-resistant, petroleum-based lubricant compound fortified with graphite and metallic flake. Inert, will not evaporate or harden in extreme cold or heat up to 1600°F. Nickel antiseize: Copper-free. Recommended for stainless steel and other metal fittings. For preventing corrosion, seizing and galling in harsh chemical environments and temperatures to 2400°F. Zinc works well, and it mentions its use for aluminum, but the copper free nickel is a good choice too. Used on lug nuts, brake caliper bolts, spark plugs various front of engine bolts (except for water pump, which will use low-strength anti-seize). Not all antisieze is compatible with O2 sensors. If it has Nickel, it can trash the O2. Call Bosch 800 # for advice. Optimoly HT - Copper Antisieze, Optimoly TA - Silver Antisieze, Molykote U - Dry Graphite Molybdenum.

linderpat

Since the search function here is now a major PIA, look at this thread for more info, especially as to antiseize and lug nuts: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lubricant.html

Aircool'dFool

Sorry to revive an old thread, but if I'm replacing O2 sensors and general nuts / bolts in and around the cross-pipe/exhaust system, what type of anti-seize should i be using between the three mentioned: nickel, copper, graphite? Below are the options i see - would i be okay buying this $4 "Permatex 74343" which is described as a "highly refined blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricants"?

linderpat

The silver Permatex will be just fine. I use it on most about everything with all of my cars, and it never fails me. Get the bigger one - the 1/2 pint, and it will last forever. The only time I use the copper stuff is where I have steel to steel and rust isa potential issue. Altho I use the silver on my wheel studs, and I have not had any lug nuts seize.

icsamerica

Kitc2246

All of the major spark plug manufacturers do NOT recommend anti-seize because it was leading to over torqueing and breaking the plugs. The plugs all have a corrosion resistance on the threads. That said Porsche recommends changing plugs every 4 years.

Larson E. Rapp

So the guy in the video above advocates putting a lubricant (antiseize) on a fastener and under-torquing it?

Wild guess, does he work for Boeing?

hacker-pschorr

I'm sure Boeing specifies what kind of lube (if any) on every fastener and that's taken into account for the torque specification.

The 928 WSM is the same, some fasteners the manual specifies to use anti-seize and the specified torque for said fastener takes that into account. If no lube is specified, it's assumed the torque specification is for clean and dry threads.

Also, Most spark plugs have a crush washer and the torque for a new plug differs from a used plug. From the NGK website:
https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resourc...ut-spark-plugs
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.


Similar info here:
chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf
Reduce the torque values by 25% for lubricated fasteners

From the 997 WSM:
New spark plug 30 + 3 (22 + 2)
Old spark plug 25 + 3 (19 + 2)


Different types of anti-seize also have different affects on bolt torque, from the 928 WSM:














I put a tiny bit of Wurth CU 800 on all spark plugs, new or old. I've seen far too many galled up heads to do otherwise.