New clutch needed
#1
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Is the Sachs racing setup going to hold up to K24 hybrid/protomotive tuned power levels? My car spends 90% of its life on the track. What clutch are all of you track junkies running?
Thanks for the help guys!
Thanks for the help guys!
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Not a track junky, but do track my car regularly. I use the Sachs Lightweight Motorsports clutch with lightwieght flywheel and I am extremely happy with it. I don't have the same power as you do, but I understand that the setup I have can very easily cope with much higher HP & torque... Contact Kevin of UMW - I bought it from him...
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#8
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I think I'm leaning towards the Sachs racing setup with the 1100 pp, does anyone know how the actual clutch disk is different from the standard Sach disk?
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The p/n for the clutch/pp I bought from ultimate motorwerks are below. It's supposed to be good for 800 ft/lb of torque.
Sachs pp# 88 3082 999 752
GT3 clutch # 1878000802
I'd sell them for 50c on the dollar.
Sachs pp# 88 3082 999 752
GT3 clutch # 1878000802
I'd sell them for 50c on the dollar.
#11
Why do I feel so left out!
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Felix,
Me too !!!![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
I still get the shakes when on a steep hill and havent been driving the car often...
Spartan - GO for it - Brads will handle the power - IIRC he has been doing DRAG events - hence why he "upgraded" Brad?
Simon.
Me too !!!
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I still get the shakes when on a steep hill and havent been driving the car often...
Spartan - GO for it - Brads will handle the power - IIRC he has been doing DRAG events - hence why he "upgraded" Brad?
Simon.
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Brad's plate and disk need to be rebuilt or at least looked at. If it was slipping with his 3.8 engine package one should look at it before installing it.
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The same pressure plate that you have has different maximum clamping force depending on what clutch plate you use! So the problem does not lie in the pressure plate, it lies in the combo.
The clutch that you have is a 996 GT3 Clubsport version, which is the same as the 993 RSCS version as well, and it is an organic disc clutch.
The same PP Sachs # 88 3082 999 752 that you have will handle the following maximum flywheel torque:
500 lbs.ft if you are using an organic clutch disc. (street/track)
580 lbs.ft if you are using a modified organic plate (street/track)
640 lbs.ft if you are using a sintered clutch plate (race)
Sachs build some flexibility in their systems, so you might see more than those numbers but that would not be sustained and as soon as you put some mileage on it , it will start slipping.
So your clutch kit (the one for sale) withstands 500lbs of torque give and take manufacturing tolerances from Sachs. It is the same used by FVD for example for many of the applications from 964 to 997.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/993tt_500lbs_kit.jpg)
For 95% of engines here that are quoted by tuners as 600hp/600lbs.ft chassis dyno numbers, this is a good combo, reason is real torque is much less than quoted by the tuner dynos and once you add the tolerances by Sachs, you are covering a safe 550lbs of torque. It is not an issue with your PP or with your clutch, I am sure they are in perfect condition, they are only not suitable for your torque levels, as is obvious from above.
When you are at the dragstrip or if you are running a 3.8 ltr at 1.2-1.4 bar of boost, you obviously go beyond the limits of this combo. To withstand Sachs rated 580 lbs of torque you need to keep the same setup except change your clutch disc for a rigid one with special organic facings, part numbers 881864 999973 from the Sachs racing catalog, this will be a great street clutch setup.
If you need more clamping force, which you won't, then you have to go for a full sintered plate, and clutch friendliness will be affected. If you had this disc plate rated at 580lbs, it would not have slipped with your engine.