Tweaking EZ-F, part third
02-08-2008, 04:56 PM
#1
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Tweaking EZ-F, part third
(In part deux), I had the tweak, but I didn't understand why it worked.
There are two parts to the old tweak, to fool the EZ-F into more advance
Disconnect the full load (WOT) switch input.
A fixed 5K resistance for the TempII (coolant) input for 3° advance at cruise/idle.
What I've learned
The 85-86 32V seems to be very knock resistant, and can handle lots of advance with proper tuning, including colder plugs (wr5dc).
You have to use the stock chip. Performance chips are already advanced (~4°?), but not at idle. Advance at idle smooths the idle, makes the exhaust burble a touch quieter, and it may run cooler, too.
The WOT map is 1 dimensional, or rpm based only, with no MAP (load) input. Disabling the WOT input keeps the EZ-F in the 2D cruise map, which covers rpms from idle to redline, no to high load (even altitude). The idle map is also 1D.
The coolant temp actually has two steps, +5°, or +3° (20K, 5K), which is added to the cruise and idle maps.
The air temp input retards by 3° if the airbox temp is >125°F. This is subtracted from the cruise map only at high load (<10" mercury), but the coolant advance is still added. EG: (-3) + 5 = 2.
The air temp retard is too easily triggered, especially on the dyno. A fixed 5K input will disable it. I removed the sensor, and used it's wires for my knock sensor.
So, by changing the inputs there's a range of advance options
Idle, cruise low load + / cruise high load +
5/5, 5/2, 3/3, 3/0, 0/0, 0/-3
(Even more options.)
Example: 3/3
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - 5K - pin 22 (or use sensor)
TempII, pin 23 - 5K - ground
Example: 5/2
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - pin 22 (octane loop)
TempII, pin 23 - 20K - ground
How can you tell it's 5/2, using a timing light?
You'll need a timing light that shows rpm, too.
Idle advance is 15° (stock, when warm 10°).
Pull off the EZ-F vacuum hose (high load).
At the engine, rotate throttle slightly, and hold 800 rpm (cruise).
If the octane loop is connected, the advance will be 12°, otherwise 15°.
What I'm running
I found that 5 works great on the low end...I mean really great!
But my KnockLite shows high rpm knock (inaudible) at 5, so I'm running 5/2 with no knock.
I made some serious HP with a SharkTuned EZ-F chip, but we only had time to play with the WOT map. The cruise map is where the performance chips are nice, with more advance, just off idle. I made some airflow improvements(?), and I was getting knock at high rpm, so I'm trying this tweak again, for now.
What would be best
A SharkTuned cruise map, of course!
Mad props to
Louie Ott
John Speake
There are two parts to the old tweak, to fool the EZ-F into more advance
Disconnect the full load (WOT) switch input.
A fixed 5K resistance for the TempII (coolant) input for 3° advance at cruise/idle.
What I've learned
The 85-86 32V seems to be very knock resistant, and can handle lots of advance with proper tuning, including colder plugs (wr5dc).
You have to use the stock chip. Performance chips are already advanced (~4°?), but not at idle. Advance at idle smooths the idle, makes the exhaust burble a touch quieter, and it may run cooler, too.
The WOT map is 1 dimensional, or rpm based only, with no MAP (load) input. Disabling the WOT input keeps the EZ-F in the 2D cruise map, which covers rpms from idle to redline, no to high load (even altitude). The idle map is also 1D.
The coolant temp actually has two steps, +5°, or +3° (20K, 5K), which is added to the cruise and idle maps.
The air temp input retards by 3° if the airbox temp is >125°F. This is subtracted from the cruise map only at high load (<10" mercury), but the coolant advance is still added. EG: (-3) + 5 = 2.
The air temp retard is too easily triggered, especially on the dyno. A fixed 5K input will disable it. I removed the sensor, and used it's wires for my knock sensor.
So, by changing the inputs there's a range of advance options
Idle, cruise low load + / cruise high load +
5/5, 5/2, 3/3, 3/0, 0/0, 0/-3
(Even more options.)
Example: 3/3
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - 5K - pin 22 (or use sensor)
TempII, pin 23 - 5K - ground
Example: 5/2
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - pin 22 (octane loop)
TempII, pin 23 - 20K - ground
How can you tell it's 5/2, using a timing light?
You'll need a timing light that shows rpm, too.
Idle advance is 15° (stock, when warm 10°).
Pull off the EZ-F vacuum hose (high load).
At the engine, rotate throttle slightly, and hold 800 rpm (cruise).
If the octane loop is connected, the advance will be 12°, otherwise 15°.
What I'm running
I found that 5 works great on the low end...I mean really great!
But my KnockLite shows high rpm knock (inaudible) at 5, so I'm running 5/2 with no knock.I made some serious HP with a SharkTuned EZ-F chip, but we only had time to play with the WOT map. The cruise map is where the performance chips are nice, with more advance, just off idle. I made some airflow improvements(?), and I was getting knock at high rpm, so I'm trying this tweak again, for now.
What would be best
A SharkTuned cruise map, of course!
Mad props to
Louie Ott
John Speake
Last edited by PorKen; 02-23-2008 at 10:37 PM.
02-09-2008, 02:37 AM
#4
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Darien,
Just one S4 sensor, at the front of the valley, using a S4 plug.
Just one S4 sensor, at the front of the valley, using a S4 plug.
02-09-2008, 02:45 AM
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Matt,
I have my cams set at zero right now, as I'm trying to get the best dyno numbers. Normally, I'd advance them 3-4° crank. Then I might need to run 3/0.
I have my cams set at zero right now, as I'm trying to get the best dyno numbers. Normally, I'd advance them 3-4° crank. Then I might need to run 3/0.
02-09-2008, 01:57 PM
#7
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Stock, the 85-86 32V feels dull until the rpms come up. The AA/clone chips have much more snap off idle.
I'm not sure how much advance they put in over the curve, but IIRC, I saw about 4° over stock at 2000. This mod feels much better than the chips!
What do the euros 'feel' like?
I'm not sure how much advance they put in over the curve, but IIRC, I saw about 4° over stock at 2000. This mod feels much better than the chips!
What do the euros 'feel' like?
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02-09-2008, 03:45 PM
#8
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Hello Ken
We have always had 98 RON fuel here, so that's what the 16v Euros are mapped for, although as we know, that mapping is "conservative".
What fuel were the 85/86 US 32v spec'd for ?
I have added a few degrees to the base (cruise) map on my 16v Euro, and it may have helped a bit to throttle response - difficult to say.
Advancing the WOT map certainly gave a good benefit.
Euro's are pretty responsive as stock, the main killer for them is MAf ageing as they appear to have been set up rather on the weak side (these are non-cat cars of course). They can tolerate less MAF ageing than S4 and later.
The worst aspect of a auto box Euro S2 is the large gap between 2nd and 3rd gears (4 speed box) As thr engine is quite "peaky" the gear change lands you in a bit of a hole. However this is greatly improved with more WOT advance.
Needless to say I've never driven an example of the Euro 85/86 32v. They are like proverbial hen's teeth, even in mainland Europe, where I think a few were sold.
I've only ever come across one example here in England and that turned out to be a US 32v.
We have always had 98 RON fuel here, so that's what the 16v Euros are mapped for, although as we know, that mapping is "conservative".
What fuel were the 85/86 US 32v spec'd for ?
I have added a few degrees to the base (cruise) map on my 16v Euro, and it may have helped a bit to throttle response - difficult to say.
Advancing the WOT map certainly gave a good benefit.
Euro's are pretty responsive as stock, the main killer for them is MAf ageing as they appear to have been set up rather on the weak side (these are non-cat cars of course). They can tolerate less MAF ageing than S4 and later.
The worst aspect of a auto box Euro S2 is the large gap between 2nd and 3rd gears (4 speed box) As thr engine is quite "peaky" the gear change lands you in a bit of a hole. However this is greatly improved with more WOT advance.
Needless to say I've never driven an example of the Euro 85/86 32v. They are like proverbial hen's teeth, even in mainland Europe, where I think a few were sold.
I've only ever come across one example here in England and that turned out to be a US 32v.
02-09-2008, 04:31 PM
#9
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John,
The glovebox manual states 96 RON (92 R+M/2). Both of my 86.5, with stock chips, have run fine with the medium grade, 89 R+M/2, even in summer.
The most noticeable improvement with this 5/2 is part throttle takeoff. Even with a very small throttle opening, it pulls itself from a stop much easier. My (L/100KM gauge) also shows that it takes slightly less fuel to take off, going to ~25, instead of deep into the box. Of course, this won't translate into fuel savings, because I will just drive faster, now.
Have you tried disconnecting the WOT input? Louie convinced me that this is the way to go, although it will likely take much longer to tune.
The glovebox manual states 96 RON (92 R+M/2). Both of my 86.5, with stock chips, have run fine with the medium grade, 89 R+M/2, even in summer.
The most noticeable improvement with this 5/2 is part throttle takeoff. Even with a very small throttle opening, it pulls itself from a stop much easier. My (L/100KM gauge) also shows that it takes slightly less fuel to take off, going to ~25, instead of deep into the box. Of course, this won't translate into fuel savings, because I will just drive faster, now.
Have you tried disconnecting the WOT input? Louie convinced me that this is the way to go, although it will likely take much longer to tune.
02-09-2008, 06:43 PM
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Have you experimented with retarded cams and advanced ignition? I have to figure out something since my car has a lot less 'punch' when I hit the throttle relative to before fixing some vacuum leaks, bad Temp II and some wiring issues.
02-09-2008, 11:46 PM
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Have you had the MAF rebuilt?
I tried retarding the cams by 4° crank, and it seemed to loose power. In hindsight, I think it may have been how the car was set up on the dyno.
You must have the hood open, and a cover over the area forward of the rad, so the engine isn't pulling in hot air. A fan blowing on the intake is good too.
During my last dyno session, I was getting low numbers again. When I hooked up the SharkTuner, I found, with the hood closed, that the intake temp was 132°F! Doing the above lowered it to 98°F. The EZ-F retards by 3° >125°, and the air density... When the intake cooled, that's when the HP starting climbing over 300.
Anyways, there may be some horsepower available by retarding, but it is such a pain to adjust on the dyno, and takes at least an hour.
I tried retarding the cams by 4° crank, and it seemed to loose power. In hindsight, I think it may have been how the car was set up on the dyno.
You must have the hood open, and a cover over the area forward of the rad, so the engine isn't pulling in hot air. A fan blowing on the intake is good too.
During my last dyno session, I was getting low numbers again. When I hooked up the SharkTuner, I found, with the hood closed, that the intake temp was 132°F! Doing the above lowered it to 98°F. The EZ-F retards by 3° >125°, and the air density... When the intake cooled, that's when the HP starting climbing over 300.
Anyways, there may be some horsepower available by retarding, but it is such a pain to adjust on the dyno, and takes at least an hour.
02-10-2008, 06:40 AM
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John,
The glovebox manual states 96 RON (92 R+M/2). Both of my 86.5, with stock chips, have run fine with the medium grade, 89 R+M/2, even in summer.
The most noticeable improvement with this 5/2 is part throttle takeoff. Even with a very small throttle opening, it pulls itself from a stop much easier. My (L/100KM gauge) also shows that it takes slightly less fuel to take off, going to ~25, instead of deep into the box. Of course, this won't translate into fuel savings, because I will just drive faster, now.
Have you tried disconnecting the WOT input? Louie convinced me that this is the way to go, although it will likely take much longer to tune.
The glovebox manual states 96 RON (92 R+M/2). Both of my 86.5, with stock chips, have run fine with the medium grade, 89 R+M/2, even in summer.
The most noticeable improvement with this 5/2 is part throttle takeoff. Even with a very small throttle opening, it pulls itself from a stop much easier. My (L/100KM gauge) also shows that it takes slightly less fuel to take off, going to ~25, instead of deep into the box. Of course, this won't translate into fuel savings, because I will just drive faster, now.
Have you tried disconnecting the WOT input? Louie convinced me that this is the way to go, although it will likely take much longer to tune.
The Euro 16v is pretty smart off the line, once you have addressed any possible causes of a lean out when the throttle is opened. On my car this required a rebuilt MAF and also the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. Both items made a significant improvement on their own.
I guess DR isone of the few people who are able to drive both Euro 16v and US 85/86 32v back to back ?
I usually run my Euro on 95 RON standard unleaded fuel without any detectable pinking. When I feel rich I fill it with 98 RON although this is now costing us an arm and a leg.
I haven't disabled the WOT switch to the EZF. I would need a good few hours on a dyno to properly investigate. My tuning was fairly basic.
I agree that would be a good topic to investigate. I'm not sure why Porsche/Bosch structured the EZF maps in that way. It's difficult to envisage a fault condition that would make sesnse to have a rpm only WOT map....
02-10-2008, 02:54 PM
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During my last dyno session, I was getting low numbers again. When I hooked up the SharkTuner, I found, with the hood closed, that the intake temp was 132°F! Doing the above lowered it to 98°F. The EZ-F retards by 3° >125°, and the air density... When the intake cooled, that's when the HP starting climbing over 300.