DIY Trailex maintenance - shopping list and feedback
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
DIY Trailex maintenance - shopping list and feedback
Hello guys,
I bought a used trailex , 15 years old, so I got started looking at the little details to make sure all is in order.
I replaced:
- 7 pole connector
Good plug you can open and attach all wires with a screw system inside
- Brake away switch for electric brakes
I used some posi-lock system thingy to connect wires together. These stuff are great and you can open and close them as many time as you like with the same connection quality. They also me a version to tap into wires but these are great to connect the new plug to the end of the trailer wiring system
- I looked into the wiring and Wires are in good condition but many of the square nuts maintaining them inside the grooves were rusted like hell, these square nuts thing are perfect match and they are supposed to be rust resistant.
- Trailer light wiring
My wiring is almost perfect but I like to have some spare just in case my OCD gets the best out of me.
Next stop I'll get into the electric brakes. Axles and suspensions are ugly and rusted but I think spray paint will do. After 15 years, I am surprised the trailex actually look so good.
I bought a used trailex , 15 years old, so I got started looking at the little details to make sure all is in order.
I replaced:
- 7 pole connector
Good plug you can open and attach all wires with a screw system inside
- Brake away switch for electric brakes
I used some posi-lock system thingy to connect wires together. These stuff are great and you can open and close them as many time as you like with the same connection quality. They also me a version to tap into wires but these are great to connect the new plug to the end of the trailer wiring system
- I looked into the wiring and Wires are in good condition but many of the square nuts maintaining them inside the grooves were rusted like hell, these square nuts thing are perfect match and they are supposed to be rust resistant.
- Trailer light wiring
My wiring is almost perfect but I like to have some spare just in case my OCD gets the best out of me.
Next stop I'll get into the electric brakes. Axles and suspensions are ugly and rusted but I think spray paint will do. After 15 years, I am surprised the trailex actually look so good.
#2
Rennlist Member
Pressure wash it and it will look new. Springs don't last forever and are only ~$200 for all 4. Something to consider. Replace tires every 3 years.
I love my 1997 7541.
I love my 1997 7541.
#4
I just bought a used one in a car/trailer package deal. Mine is 7 years old.
What about repacking the bearings? How often do you do this or do you just replace them? I don't want to be one of those trailers on the side of the road and the wheel still rolling down the road.
What about repacking the bearings? How often do you do this or do you just replace them? I don't want to be one of those trailers on the side of the road and the wheel still rolling down the road.
#5
On the brakes, consider replacing the total brake assembly. You get everything brand new and rust free. When I replaced mine they were less than 50 bucks each. I also upgraded to self adjusting in the process. Here are examples (no affiliation): http://www.easternmarine.com/Electri...ke-Assemblies/
I also installed new wheel bearings (again, not real expensive), but old ones could be inspected and re-packed.
When I added LED taillights I also added a dedicated ground wire from the 7 pin to the taillights. I'd had some intermittent problems using the chassis as ground.
I also installed new wheel bearings (again, not real expensive), but old ones could be inspected and re-packed.
When I added LED taillights I also added a dedicated ground wire from the 7 pin to the taillights. I'd had some intermittent problems using the chassis as ground.
#6
Rennlist Member
Wheel bearings, etc.
Clean, inspect, and repack the wheel bearings!
Good that you replaced the connector. Now go through the entire harness and check its condition at every connection. The components and methods used in trailer harnesses are generally scary bad.
Good that you replaced the connector. Now go through the entire harness and check its condition at every connection. The components and methods used in trailer harnesses are generally scary bad.
#7
Trailex will sell you replacement nuts by the bag. I replaced about 100 that were rusted. LEDs are a nice upgrade and pretty easy to replace. Please post how you do your axle, need to do that also.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Mine is a '99 with at least 120k miles.
I have the bearings packed every year, and every three or so years, replace the brake assemblies and tires. Additionally, I replace the various suspension bushings and equalizer about every 50K miles. Also added an additional leaf on each corner a while back after I had one break.
They're pretty durable with regular annual maintenance.
I have the bearings packed every year, and every three or so years, replace the brake assemblies and tires. Additionally, I replace the various suspension bushings and equalizer about every 50K miles. Also added an additional leaf on each corner a while back after I had one break.
They're pretty durable with regular annual maintenance.
Last edited by mhm993; 02-01-2015 at 11:50 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Check the tires and if they're more than 3 years old, I'd replace them. A tire failure is the most likely thing to leave you stuck on the side of the road, followed by a wheel bearing. Consider going to the highest load tire that will fit on your rims. Trailer tires, the ST type, aren't exactly high quality so replacing sooner and with greater load carrying is a good thing.
#10
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Check the tires and if they're more than 3 years old, I'd replace them. A tire failure is the most likely thing to leave you stuck on the side of the road, followed by a wheel bearing. Consider going to the highest load tire that will fit on your rims. Trailer tires, the ST type, aren't exactly high quality so replacing sooner and with greater load carrying is a good thing.
Bought used trailer, hand one tire delaminate coming back from WGI after hitting a steel road plate, lucky it stayed inflated for a few mile until I could exit I-90.
Went with 4 new tires from Tire Rack, Kumho trailer tires. Keep fresh tires (and wheel bearing greased) and improve the odds of making to you destination without roadside drama. Thanks for all the Trailex parts pointers.
Great thread.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If anybody knows the correct dimension or even better, parts number for the drivetrain parts, that would be awesome:
- axels size ?
- leaf spring ?
- drum brake size ?
If not I'll take it apart and try to list back here what I had to buy. I am surprised there are no DIY guide to overhaul Trailex on Rennlist.
- axels size ?
- leaf spring ?
- drum brake size ?
If not I'll take it apart and try to list back here what I had to buy. I am surprised there are no DIY guide to overhaul Trailex on Rennlist.
#12
I tried to find part numbers for the wheel bearings but had no luck. If they are cheap, I would rather replace them so I know their age. Anybody have a source or pt numbers?
#13
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
+1 to LEDs, and the need for a good dedicated ground. I too have an old Trailex, probably older than yours, maybe 25+? Excellent company for support, if you ever need to call them for parts etc. That said, nothing you're proposing should require their support.
For the bearings, you just have to measure the diameter, ID IIRC, you can either buy at your local trailer store - there are a few common sizes, I found mine at General RV - or order online.
I don't like the connector style shown above; water gets in there and they corrode and give electrical problems, same as crappy old incandescent bulbs. I switched to a fully sealed connector at both ends, never had to think about it again. Like this:
Hope that helps.
For the bearings, you just have to measure the diameter, ID IIRC, you can either buy at your local trailer store - there are a few common sizes, I found mine at General RV - or order online.
I don't like the connector style shown above; water gets in there and they corrode and give electrical problems, same as crappy old incandescent bulbs. I switched to a fully sealed connector at both ends, never had to think about it again. Like this:
Hope that helps.