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ctony, Thanks for posting your report. Your wear numbers are coming down. They are higher than "most" that I have seen on this engine. But I have seen higher.. The main problems stems from how the engine was driven during the first owner. Oil changes at 10K miles. The factory delivery lube stayed in the engine? This causes accelerated wear.
The LiquiMoly is actually lowering your wear numbers with the exception of your aluminum. Which can be caused by your cam housings wearing.
If I had these numbers on my engine, I would make a break from your LiquiMoly and move to Mobil 1 5W50 0W40 Blend at 50/50.. If it's going to be a hot one this year OR if you track your car, you could run 100% 5W50 M1.. On a side note, I am having good luck running Redline 0W40 5W50 Blend. It is has a very good engine wear additive package! It is one of the last true Ester/PAO synthetic oils.
Thanks Kevin
I actually switched to the mobil 1 tdt 5-40 for this term. I will look into your suggestions with the next change though. Do you think there is anything I can inspect or replace to find the source of some of these numbers. The nickel is the odd one to me. Do you think my chain may be too slack or something like that.
Thanks
Tony, High strength steel contains nickel. It's the low temp start up that causes liner wear AND worn sheered oil. I pull the fuel pump fuses and pre-prime all my engines prior to starting when the car has been sitting more than 3 weeks.
The oil manufactures are required to pull the heavy metal out of the oil formulations. These are the metal conditioners that prevent wear Zinc and Phosphorus is being reduced even more.. As a rule, we need to find the holy grail of oil that "works" with your engine. It's not one specific brand or weight. It's foolish for me to offer one oil fits all. But there are certain oils that do run better in "these" engines vs others. Mobil 1 5W50 has more Zinc and Phosphorus than most oils.
Engine tuning also helps. On ALL of my 996TT tunes and certain 997TT tunes, I bump up the engine RPM off idle. This allows the oil pump to circulate more oil when you have come to a red light or stopped in traffic. If you have a 6 speed, disable your clutch/neutral switch. This reduces main bearing/thrust wear! You will need to modify your start proceedures, Ebrake, car in neutral! And relearn not to press the clutch in on start up.
Reviving this thread as im getting ready for my "winters over" oil change. Im thinking of Motul V300 this time. Was using M1 TDT 5w40. Not sure if im making a positive move and the cost is more. Any new thoughts on this topic?
We are running motul 300V in our car this season, and it is holding up well after 2 long dyno sessions and 3 hard autocross events. Minimal pump clatter and general engine noise, temps and pressures when hot are good. Better sounding than the Mobil TDT I was using before it that was only in for a few hundred miles and one autocross. Will get a sample taken before the next oil change to see how it compares with the baseline I took before the TDT change.
Report is back on the Motul 300V 15W50 oil used for several race events, the last few in the heat of spring/summer. Will get another sample at the end of the season.
Welp, here's my latest report. I put a little more mileage on it this time (5K) at not quite a year. We just got back last week from PCA Palooza in Eureka Springs, AR - 1400 mile round trip with some awesome driving roads.. Highly recommended for those who have not done it before..
Anyway, I run a 50/50 blend of Redline 0W40 and 5W/50 based on Kevin's recommendation.. You can see when I switched from Mobil 0W40 back in Jan of 2016.
This engine seems to love it as metal wear is actually going down over time even though I had a longer change interval this time..
The holy grail for engine oil is to "find" a oil that freezes your engine wear. The factory 0W40 sheers. You can see it happening as you put miles on the car after the oil change. Watch your oil pressure once the car is hot.. New oil has the oil pressure at 2bar.. as you get towards 4K to 5K the oil pressure drops to 1 bar. The first thing that I did when I bought my car is to bump up the idle. Similar to what I have done on the 993TT and 996TT.
Due to worldwide emission standards, the zinc and phosphorus levels previous to 2008 have been cut in half. These are the primary metal on metal wear conditioners. Mobil 0W40, 5W50 and Motul 300V, Rotella T6 have introduced Moly, boron, magnesium, and calcium (anti foam) levels to account for the loss of the zinc and phosphorous.
However, in this country we always have something grandfathered in.. Race oil, Motorcycle oil AND heavy equiptment/offshore marine diesel engines are exempt and can keep the zinc and phosphorous metal conditioning agents. Go to the Mobil 1 website. They are now recommending the Motorcycle Mobil 1 VTwin oil for Porsche aircooled engines. It is a GREAT oil and reverses the metal wear numbers! I have seen it. The problem for us is>> the viscosity is 10 points to high since it is a 20W50 oil.
To wrap it up, for my shop fill in watercooled Porsche engines I recommend Mobil 5W40 TDT or Rotella T6 5W40. For those that don't buy the Heavy duty oil option "google" the use of these two oils. You will see many UOA, in many performance cars. As a disclaimer, I am running the new Motul 300V in a blended weight to improve the sheering that I have seen on our engines. Please note that we have 5 roots geared oil pumps in our engine, the beats the oil like a blender. I am still looking for the BEST overall engine oil that will show stable aluminum, copper and iron levels on the Blackstone reports.
There are new oils coming to market. Please use caution, we want to see UOA's from fellow users for a period of time.. 20K miles and maybe a year of reports before jumping ship. Lastly for those that want a approved Porsche oil the 5W50 Mobil 1 is a good oil. I prefer it over the 0W40.
Hi Kevin...what are your thoughts on AMSOIL synthetic 5W50 (or 5W40)….that is the oil that my local BMW Motorsports shop (BMW Motorcycles) recommends for my BMW S1000RR. Everybody swears by it in the Hipo Sportbike sector but I have never seen any blackstone reports on it.
I have been using Redline products for a while and just adjusted to the blend Kevin recommends on my last change. Prior to that I had been a Mobil 1 customer until I fond out more about truly synthetic oils.
While I am not an engineer or a petroleum product expert, I would imagine that using a true synthetic oil at an appropriate weight would yield better results as far as engine wear than some of the hybrid "synthetic" oils out there. I think paying attention to Kevin's blend is more important then the synthetic brand you choos, as long as it is a truly 100% synthetic oil.
To be frank, I was quite surprised to find out about Mobil and what it's base oil was all about. I switched immediately after doing that research.
Hello All,
Wanted to drop a line and say hello. If you have any questions related to Motul products or oil composition/formula questions, drop me a line here. If you want me to analyze your UOA (used oil analysis) and make some recommendations, I'd be happy to do so as well. -Nick
Tony, High strength steel contains nickel. It's the low temp start up that causes liner wear AND worn sheered oil. I pull the fuel pump fuses and pre-prime all my engines prior to starting when the car has been sitting more than 3 weeks.
The oil manufactures are required to pull the heavy metal out of the oil formulations. These are the metal conditioners that prevent wear Zinc and Phosphorus is being reduced even more.. As a rule, we need to find the holy grail of oil that "works" with your engine. It's not one specific brand or weight. It's foolish for me to offer one oil fits all. But there are certain oils that do run better in "these" engines vs others. Mobil 1 5W50 has more Zinc and Phosphorus than most oils.
Engine tuning also helps. On ALL of my 996TT tunes and certain 997TT tunes, I bump up the engine RPM off idle. This allows the oil pump to circulate more oil when you have come to a red light or stopped in traffic. If you have a 6 speed, disable your clutch/neutral switch. This reduces main bearing/thrust wear! You will need to modify your start proceedures, Ebrake, car in neutral! And relearn not to press the clutch in on start up.
I like the turn off the "clutch in during start process". I am old enough it still rubs me the wrong way to have to push a clutch in to start my cars. Can you recommend a tool to do that?
I like the turn off the "clutch in during start process". I am old enough it still rubs me the wrong way to have to push a clutch in to start my cars. Can you recommend a tool to do that?
Disconnect leads from the switch and connect the leads to a fuse
03-26-2016, 12:56 PM
