ilko

As these cars age and the mileage creeps up it might be a good idea to check how the engine is doing. I've been testing oil samples on my cars for many years and it's a great way to learn more about the health of the engine. So here's my first report, everything looks good at 30K miles...



BTW, did I ever mention how easy it is to change the oil on these cars?! I'm so used to air-cooled 911s, and compared to those the 997TT is a breeze! Hell, you don't even have to raise the car! Just back it up, put a laptop on the garbage can for reference and off you go. 40 minutes later she has new blood pumping through her veins!



Feel free to share your reports in this space and let's compare how we're doing.

Igooz

Do you have to use a garbage can or can you also use a recycle can?! I want to make sure that I do this correctly.

ilko

Depends on the size and color. My garbage can was the perfect height for the job and I felt that a blue can would clash with the orange

Igooz

well said!

Did I read the report correctly that they think you can run up to 5,000 miles? (The viscosity is holding up, no breakdown and no contaminants, etc...)

We used to have a very large trucking company and we did oil and coolant sample analysis religiously to extend the engine oil change interval to around 40,000 miles, and coolant to 500,000-700,000 miles (needed additives). So you are smart for running these tests.

ilko

Thanks, I've been running these tests on my cars for years mainly to see if there is any abnormal engine wear. The pattern I've noticed w. Blackstone is that they are generally conservative when it comes to extending oil usage and ask you to run in for an additional 1500-2000 miles if the sample looks good. Porsche suggests 20,000 miles which is ridiculous IMO. Changing the oil once a year (3-4000 miles in my case) is good enough.

Kevin

ilko, I have a nice stash of customer Blackstone reports over the years. I question the Mobil 0W40 in your engine. The reason is.. Mobil 1 0W40 usually has a Moly range of 65 to 100.. The same thing for Mobil 5W50.. Mobil TDT 5W40 has little to no Moly. Shell Rotella T6 has Moly. The new formulations of Motul 300V have a ton of Moly.

You might want to keep your eye on the Copper. Most range between 20 and 25.. Last four years of reports that I have and have seen. Iron and aluminum look great..

I'd also recommend to ask for the TBN number or Total Base Number, this will tell you how much detergent additives are left in your oil. Lastly your sheer number look good.

Zeus993

Thanks for posting. I've been holding off on changing my oil over concern on draining some smaller accessory oil container (name?) besides the main one. Did you drain that as well or just the main?

ilko

Thank you Kevin. It doesn't look like the oil in the engine was M1 0W-40, but that's what I'm running in the car now. I'll keep an eye on the copper.

You have to drain the oil tank and the crank case. Both are easily accessible. Some people go through the trouble of draining the turbos but the amount of oil there is miniscule so I didn't bother. I also used a shop towel to soak in all the oil that was left in the oil filter housing. When I refilled it it took exactly 9 quarts to reach the full level.

4ocious

I looked up Molybdenum but couldn't decide if it's a good or bad addative. I use Motul 8100 oil in my TT and GTS and according to the previous poster Motul has a "ton of it." More info please, thanks.

JG 996T

Looks good - it is easy.

(Draining the turbos is no trouble (IMO). Probably get about 2 ounces per side. I use a turkey baster for residual oil in filter housing).

Zeus993

Reference link you used?

ilko

Here's the DIY for the oil change: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-m97-70-a.html

Zeus993

Tx. Looks easy enought. Just the extra step of the Oil Tank. Easy.

ilko

Draining the oil tank was easy. I didn't have a 27mm wrench and used an adjustable one. But later found a 27mm wrench on Ebay for $4 shipped so I purchased it anyway.

You will definitely need a filter tool/wrench. Luckily I had one laying around in my tool box, but you will not be able to remove the filter cap without it.

The rest is a piece of cake.

jhbrennan

Thanks for all the great info. I don't think you can drain the turbos on the 997...you could on the 996.