Door handle removal
#1
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Door handle removal
Would you guys agree that the interior door panel has to come off in order to remove the exterior door handle? I have to replace my gaskets (and I'm not going to cut them). The 968 manual says removal and installation can be done without taking the door panel off. Thoughts? Thanks
#2
One screw on the back of the door(in the door jam) will loosen the handle. Pull the handle out and backwards and you might be able to get the gasket off. It really depends how far out you can pull the handle with the linkage still attached. I believe this is possible with 944's so should be the same on a 968.
#3
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If you are not going to cut the gaskets, you will have to unhook the linkage and the wiring for the door locks. I am not sure you can do that without removing the door panels. If it were me, I would cut the gasket on the bottom side as there are pins that hold the gasket in place. The front gasket can be changed without removing the door panel or cutting it.
#4
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Actually, you can change both the front and the rear gasket without panel removal. As stated, you need to remove the cheesehead behind the door seal, which loosens the handle, angle it out and you should be able to slide the old seal out.
It takes a little effort but the new one will slide on. I remember seeing an article in Excellence on a DIY for this. It should be approx 15-30 mins each side.
Raj
It takes a little effort but the new one will slide on. I remember seeing an article in Excellence on a DIY for this. It should be approx 15-30 mins each side.
Raj
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#8
You can do this fairly easily without cutting the gaskets or removing the door handle linkage. All you need to do is heat the gasket up with a heat gun so that it is soft and pliable (be careful not to melt it, but if I have to tell you that, you might leave this to a pro! lol) and then the gasket will stretch enough to fit over the rear part of the door handle and then will assume the proper shape and fitment.
Regards,
Regards,
#9
Can someone describe the sequence of wiggling, writhing, and cussing required to re-install the handle? The FSM isn't helpful enough. I can get the back portion in, or the front, but not both. If I have the back portion in the front won't go in over the rear tab, and if I have the front tab in, then I cannot get the back portion in no matter how I wiggle it. There has to be some trick I'm missing.
By the way new gaskets will fit without disconnecting the linkage if you get it really warm first.
thanks
Jon
By the way new gaskets will fit without disconnecting the linkage if you get it really warm first.
thanks
Jon
#10
On the Radar
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This should help.
Mechanically the same as a 944.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-12.htm
Mechanically the same as a 944.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-12.htm
#11
Its been a while, but iirc, the front side goes in first, then you have to push it forward until the backside clears the opening. Then slide it back and then the screw can go in to hold it in place.
The cussing sequence is a three syllable cuss word just before you start, a seven word string after you have the front tab in and you are trying to clear the rear opening, and then a single word exclamation while you are finishing.
The cussing sequence is a three syllable cuss word just before you start, a seven word string after you have the front tab in and you are trying to clear the rear opening, and then a single word exclamation while you are finishing.
#12
Got the driver's side, no problem. For some reason I seem to have less front to back freedom on the passenger side. If I get the front in I cannot seem to slide it forward at all. and hence I can't get the rear in with any manner of fiddling. It came outta there, it's gotta go back in.
Back to learning that cuss string.
Update: I got the stupid thing back in. I wish I could describe an exact sequence that did it, but I was fiddling and wiggling the same as I had been for a long time and it suddenly just popped back in.
Back to learning that cuss string.
Update: I got the stupid thing back in. I wish I could describe an exact sequence that did it, but I was fiddling and wiggling the same as I had been for a long time and it suddenly just popped back in.
Last edited by JonT; 02-27-2010 at 02:14 PM.
#15
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+2 - I have broken the push arm cast piece and had to replace it. I have done 4 sets all with the panel on. A very long handled flat blade screw driver makes it easy to pop off the opem push rod. For another tread I had about the lock not actuating but good pic.-- Cheers, Mike
....... It seems to me like the white sensor wire for the key tumbler is either broken or the micro switch screw fell off. I would remove the handle , the steps are below in the pic and check the wire. You will not have completely remove and unhook the handle to check. You can pop the side bolt, slide and turn out to view the wire connection. It is screw and wire with red arrows in the pic- have fun and good luck
Cheers Mike
....... It seems to me like the white sensor wire for the key tumbler is either broken or the micro switch screw fell off. I would remove the handle , the steps are below in the pic and check the wire. You will not have completely remove and unhook the handle to check. You can pop the side bolt, slide and turn out to view the wire connection. It is screw and wire with red arrows in the pic- have fun and good luck
Cheers Mike