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With the extent of sound insolation added to the rear, would you even need the insolation located in the engine bay?
Sorry bud, missed this.
For me I would keep both if you can. If the sound deadening is in poor condition either try to install the retro-fit support bar to the front edge or you may have no option to remove it.
How may sq. foot of Dynomat is estimated for this project? I plan on doing the rear. Don't think I'll do the doors, other than mount the speaker directly to the door and add a baffle.
Door would make a huge improvement.Even placing matting behind the speaker alone will make a huge difference to sound quality. Ideally the whole door would be good. Give it a degrease first though!
Search for silent coat. That's what I used for front and rear doors and extra left. I bought a starter pack and two packs of additional dampening.
Have any of you ditched the separate 6.5 speaker and tweeter for the front and went with a two-way speaker instead, eliminating the need for the tweeter to be mounted separately? This will be mounted directly to the door.
How did you dynamat the door with the plastic already there that protects it?
Trying to make this as minimal as possible. Not sure if I'm even going to use an amp, but I do have my eye on a few compact amps. The Pioneer GM-D1004 amp looks like it would be perfect. Just want my system to sound clean. Tired of all the distortion.
The plastic vapor barrier easily comes away and you can reach through to put dynomat behind the window part, and then on the panel itself. Some folks have removed the vapor barrier, I believe I just put the dynamat inside the door and put the vapor barrier back.
As for the coaxial speakers instead of separates, the tweeter is ideally closer to ear level if you can do it, and if you did remove the factory tweeter you'd want to recover or replace your factory door panels. I have Coax speakers in my '71 on RS America panels and they work alright, but I'd really love to go back to two ways in that car. The main reasons I don't are (A) it's a track car mostly and get's driven not near as much as my 964, and (B) the combination of the window crank and the roll cage combine to make locating a tweeter a difficult thing to do.
Cool, I'll stick with the component set up then. The hole is already there, so why not? I'll just get a new set of component speakers, add a new HPF, and put in some dynamat.
Also if you guys are looking for a good stereo. Pioneer has a really nice and clean looking unit, the MVH-X560BT.
Check out the color you can change it too and it doesn't look like a disco going on on your dash. Has some pretty slick blutooth features too! Also, eliminates the CD player.
I did a 5.25 in mine Focals, without a subwoofer I'd go with a 6 or 6.5 just for better bass.
That pioneer unit looks nice I have their 9600 unit In the '71 and in general it's pretty good, the one nit I have with it is that it takes far to long to start playing from the USB stick when you get in the car. I also have the Alpine 149BT in the 964 and that starts playing much much faster...
Forgot to ask, are you guys using 6.5" component speakers up front mounting into the door?
I went with 6.5", but do not have a sub. The hole will support a 6.5" but I did need to use a spacer (that came with the speakers) between the metal and the door panel. Otherwise the speaker depth would have been an issue.
I think if you did do a 6.5 in the door bolted to the door and not the card you probably won't need a sub, certainly with my 5.25 after I mounted them to the door (I had them on the card for a short time) I went from desparately wanting a sub to figuring I'd get to it sometime. In the end I did it a short time later, but I feel like with 6.5" I might have just skipped it altogether.
Sorry for all these questions. If I go 6.5, won't the door panel become and issue? Wouldn't the current hole and grill for the 5.25 speaker be to small?
Sorry for all these questions. If I go 6.5, won't the door panel become and issue? Wouldn't the current hole and grill for the 5.25 speaker be to small?
I did, thought you just meant the sheet metal in the door, but now I know both!
Thank you, again sorry for all the silly questions just want all my parts in order when I tear the doors apart.
Kris
Ah...sorry, I should have been more clear. Door card holes did not need modifying. Of course, not all 6.5" speakers have the same profile. I found a good deal on some Polks so I went with those.
11-26-2015, 12:39 PM
