cruise98

Thanks. I asked a few questions too. There is actually a scored block on my stand at home that is cleaned and ready for grouting, but when I started looking at the water pump end, I was not exactly sure how to grout that area and had to leave for the other side of the world before I had decided what to do. Some photos of that area would be very instructive. The current floor of the water jacket is roughly the same depth as the water pump discharge port.

V2Rocket

I've got a scratched-bore 87 block and a #2-failed-crank ready for hybrid-stroking if anyone's interested in taking it off my hands...

refresh951

I remember calling Sid about this very topic and got a call a week ago from a guy ready to fill his block also. I will post detailed instructions for this in the next few days.

msalvatore

Thank's for doing this, much appreciated.

DanaT

I think the easiest way for me to do this isnt following this instruction manual...

I think driving a few miles..and stealing an engine would be easier.....

Rogue_Ant

Great thread Shawn & Sid!

Having the joy of being around these Hybrid stroker motors for a while now, I am excited to see more people go this route - and this thread is a big step in the right direction.

p5th

Quick question, I'm about to go the hybrid route and have read somewhere of a specific tune/chip for these engines. Am I correct or did I miss read? Already have M-tune,and waiting for new DME project to get logger/tuner all in one bundle. Just trying to plan for this build as best possible. Thanks.

Rogue_Ant

Yes, any time you change engine displacement - we will want to update the tune. I have maps for the different stroker variants.

URG8RB8

Very nice write up Shawn!

refresh951

Block prep update added.

Paulyy

Because i cannot modify my sticky, You should add this to it. Probably highlight it too.

URG8RB8

Couple of questions Shawn, is KLR a typo? Did you use CLR to clean the block? If not, what is KLR? Also, what is the depth from the top of the block to the block filler, or what height % is recommended?

Duke

One thing to note is that the thrust/axial clearance at the big end of the crank will be very large with the Mitsubishi rods. I removed the pan of my engine yesterday to inspect and change the rod bearings and can happily say that there is no signs of this causing any issues at all.

refresh951

oops! yes CLR. Edited the post. Thanks. I filled to about 1.7 inches from the top.

Thanks for the feedback Duke! Both Sid and I found the same thing but it is good to hear considering the extensive track use.

blown 944

Shawn, you're doing a wonderful job with this write up. Thank you again.

A couple of things of note;

Crank grinder should be able to keep the crank straight if they are cautious when grinding each journal. It is imperative that they watch the runout as they are machining.

Regarding the radius at the big end; we used to have cranks ground with a "fat radius" and used narrow race bearings on small block chevys. Same idea here.

Rods need small ends machined for pins.

If any aluminum makes contact at the bottom of the cylinder, the skirt will gall and ruin the cylinders.

May want to add the option of using flanged sleeves if your machinist will do it. This provides a nice sealing area for the HG.

Also unlike doing a factory stroker, these do not require clearancing at the girdle.

The wet paper towel idea to block ports and to shape water pump inlet works very well and easily removed.

When having the crank ground I wanted a racing clearance for the rod bearings. Iirc, I specd .002. I believe that info is in my original thread.