Torque Tube Replacement problem.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Torque Tube Replacement problem.
This should have been simple, but...
Replacing 1989 A/T torque tube. Bought rebuilt torque tube and rear converter plate from 928 Intl. Replaced the front bell housing because it was broken from a significant rear end collision.
I dropped the TT and rear suspension with transmission attached to the ground. Replaced the broken bits and the TT.
Lift everything back up, bolt the front TT carrier to the flywheel slide the hex bolt through on the front flex plate. Go to do the same on the rear coupler but all I see are splines. Absolutely no sign of the relief in the TT tube.
This is not my first time at this particular rodeo.
What am I missing?
Replacing 1989 A/T torque tube. Bought rebuilt torque tube and rear converter plate from 928 Intl. Replaced the front bell housing because it was broken from a significant rear end collision.
I dropped the TT and rear suspension with transmission attached to the ground. Replaced the broken bits and the TT.
Lift everything back up, bolt the front TT carrier to the flywheel slide the hex bolt through on the front flex plate. Go to do the same on the rear coupler but all I see are splines. Absolutely no sign of the relief in the TT tube.
This is not my first time at this particular rodeo.
What am I missing?
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Are you suggesting the torque converter is out of position?
I am perplexed. If the front pinch bolt lines up how could the rear one not? You mention bearing carriers - these are for the torque converter, right? The car was hit hard enough in the rear to break both transmission supports crack the front bell housing in two places and left the rear converter plate looking like this:
I am perplexed. If the front pinch bolt lines up how could the rear one not? You mention bearing carriers - these are for the torque converter, right? The car was hit hard enough in the rear to break both transmission supports crack the front bell housing in two places and left the rear converter plate looking like this:
#4
Three Wheelin'
Maybe a silly question but do you have the shaft in backwards? There is no pinch bolt groove on the front shaft, so as long as the front of the shaft clears the top of the tube by 1.5-2mm the rear pinch bolt groove should align with the groove in the rear flex plate snout.
#5
Rennlist Member
Seems as though the first thing you need to do is find out where the relief in the drive shaft sits relative to where to rear pinch bolt wants to go at the moment.
Would it not be prudent to assemble the rear joint whilst the transaxle unit is out of the car if it is to be mounted as a monolith? Apologies if I am missing something but it is nearly 10 years since I was last involved in this operation.
The only possibilities I can visualise are as Tony suggests [the drive shaft out of alignment relative to the carrier] or [heaven forbid] something else is not sitting where it was prior to the accident. The former should be relatively easy to determine and if as you suggest that is not the problem...?
Rgds
Fred
Would it not be prudent to assemble the rear joint whilst the transaxle unit is out of the car if it is to be mounted as a monolith? Apologies if I am missing something but it is nearly 10 years since I was last involved in this operation.
The only possibilities I can visualise are as Tony suggests [the drive shaft out of alignment relative to the carrier] or [heaven forbid] something else is not sitting where it was prior to the accident. The former should be relatively easy to determine and if as you suggest that is not the problem...?
Rgds
Fred
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Finding the relief means dropping the TT. Feh!
The only way the relief would not line up is if the torque converter was out of position - and in this case it would have to be out of position by a 1/2" or more to not be present. That is quite a bit.
Are all driveshafts the same length?
The only way the relief would not line up is if the torque converter was out of position - and in this case it would have to be out of position by a 1/2" or more to not be present. That is quite a bit.
Are all driveshafts the same length?
#7
The drive shaft could have slipped within the bearings so that the rear cutout for the bolt is not visible.
Drop the front flex plate cover and take a look at how much of the drive shaft spline is visible in the clamp. If the splines look like too much or not enough behind the clamp, then your drive shaft moved. This will also give you a clue which way the drive shaft moved.
This happens sometimes when you are placing the TT back into the car and then try to shove the transmission on the drive shaft at the back. Usually the drive shaft gets pushed toward the engine.
HTH,
Drop the front flex plate cover and take a look at how much of the drive shaft spline is visible in the clamp. If the splines look like too much or not enough behind the clamp, then your drive shaft moved. This will also give you a clue which way the drive shaft moved.
This happens sometimes when you are placing the TT back into the car and then try to shove the transmission on the drive shaft at the back. Usually the drive shaft gets pushed toward the engine.
HTH,
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It's all becoming clearer - the drive shaft must have shifted - in shipment?
I looked at Bill's end play thread and he has a lot less splines showing
Mine:
Bill's
I suppose I have to pull the TT to fix this?
I looked at Bill's end play thread and he has a lot less splines showing
Mine:
Bill's
I suppose I have to pull the TT to fix this?
#9
The Parts Whisperer
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Remove the 6 bolts that hold the flex plate to,the flywheel then leverage the shaft towards the rear
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I would think I'd want to remove the bolts slide the pinch collar closer to where Bill's is located, tighten the pinch collar and pry the shaft forward.
#11
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#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
My current thinking is to do as I said above with a small twist. I will locate three bolts and matching nuts and washers that have the same pitch and are longer. Then tighten the nuts down until the original bolts work.
Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; 06-07-2015 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Noodled some more.
#13
Rennlist Member
Remove the six bolts holding the front drive flange to the flex plate. Loosen the pinch bolt and slide the clamp rearward on the shaft until roughly the right amount of spline is showing, then tighten the pinch bolt. Use a lever between the clamp and the bell housing to lever the shaft forward until the notch in the back end of the shaft lines up with the bolt hole in the clamp. Install and torque all the fasteners starting with the rear pinch bolt followed by the six bolts attaching the drive flange to the flex plate and lastly, tighten the front pinch bolt to the correct torque.
Mike
Mike
#15
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Thread Starter
I'll try that first.