NO DASH LIGHTS ANY IDEAS
#2
Burning Brakes
Take the wires off the scroll adjuster on the left side of the pod and connect them together with a 10 amp spade fuse the dash lights should work. Unless the bulbs are burnt out.
#3
Nordschleife Master
#5
Nordschleife Master
OK.
This is your 'Black/Blue' system (this is the color of the wires that do the illumination for your dash, center console, and pod switches. Easy fix.
Above your left knee under the dash there is a dial for dimming these lights. Look under and you'll see where the Black/Blues connect with the rheostat. They may be disconnected or the Black wire that supplies the power may be disconnected. You can directly attach the Black to the Black/Blues (but no dimming ability), or take the rheostat out and clean it up, and then reattach.
This is your 'Black/Blue' system (this is the color of the wires that do the illumination for your dash, center console, and pod switches. Easy fix.
Above your left knee under the dash there is a dial for dimming these lights. Look under and you'll see where the Black/Blues connect with the rheostat. They may be disconnected or the Black wire that supplies the power may be disconnected. You can directly attach the Black to the Black/Blues (but no dimming ability), or take the rheostat out and clean it up, and then reattach.
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#8
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
I have cleaned the rheostat in place using a lot of WD-40, some rolling of the dial, and a big rag to catch the oil as it came out
#10
Nordschleife Master
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Don't assume that the only electrical problem with a rheostat is at the wiper/coil interface. There's also another point that needs attention: the center, where a rivet connects the wiper to one of the terminals and the circuit involves current passing through a tension washer. Make sure to blast that pivot point with contact cleaner and/or apply DeoxIT to it.
See my post on this topic from about half a year ago.
See my post on this topic from about half a year ago.
#12
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Location: Fresno, CA (summer in Calgary)
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Yes, everybody please remember that WD40 is not a very good contact cleaner; use some electrical contact cleaner that is seriously meant for that, you will get a much better result.
#13
No dash lights
Resurrecting this thread…..
I have removed the rheostat and did not look bad but still thoroughly cleaned with electrical cleaner .
ohms do change with movement .
Checked the supply wires double black has continuity to ground also black/blue read same continuity to ground ??
Not sure if this is correct - would like some input on next check
Thanks for assistance
frank
I have removed the rheostat and did not look bad but still thoroughly cleaned with electrical cleaner .
ohms do change with movement .
Checked the supply wires double black has continuity to ground also black/blue read same continuity to ground ??
Not sure if this is correct - would like some input on next check
Thanks for assistance
frank