Manual Transmission Replacement DIY
#1
Rest in Peace
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Manual Transmission Replacement DIY
I searched the forum to see if anyone has documented this, as I have finished the tear down prep. There are lots of snippets but nothing complete. If there is a complete thread, please reply and stop me from repeating, unless there is a desire to see it done again?
#3
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Hey Andre,
If there isn't one (which would be weird) it's probably because it's usually included as part of something else. I got a 10 line tutorial when I did my thread on R&Ring my shift lever spring. You'd probably find a few listings under 'reverse lockout spring' as well.
Honestly the WSM is actually not too bad on this one so that's probably the biggest reason. The one thing I would say to watch out for is that there are SIX bolts holding the rear of the TT to the trans, not just the 4 you can see. There are two up on top that you have to feel for. I want to say they are 17mm? But they're the same size as the 4 you can see at the corners.
Next thing to watch for is to make sure you can bring the trans all the way back before dropping it so you don't snap the input shaft on the tranny. I think it was Jim Bailey who cited a few examples of bent/broken shafts due to people dropping them before they were completely clear and hanging the trans on the shaft.
I'm sure someone who's done this more times than me (twice) can rattle off the procedure off the top of their head. If not, I'll look up the thread and post the listing I got.
If there isn't one (which would be weird) it's probably because it's usually included as part of something else. I got a 10 line tutorial when I did my thread on R&Ring my shift lever spring. You'd probably find a few listings under 'reverse lockout spring' as well.
Honestly the WSM is actually not too bad on this one so that's probably the biggest reason. The one thing I would say to watch out for is that there are SIX bolts holding the rear of the TT to the trans, not just the 4 you can see. There are two up on top that you have to feel for. I want to say they are 17mm? But they're the same size as the 4 you can see at the corners.
Next thing to watch for is to make sure you can bring the trans all the way back before dropping it so you don't snap the input shaft on the tranny. I think it was Jim Bailey who cited a few examples of bent/broken shafts due to people dropping them before they were completely clear and hanging the trans on the shaft.
I'm sure someone who's done this more times than me (twice) can rattle off the procedure off the top of their head. If not, I'll look up the thread and post the listing I got.
#4
Nordschleife Master
#5
Rennlist Member
Andre, I'd like to see you document it with pictures.
+1 on taking care during the mating of TT and trans.
HF trans jack in back, and a floor jack under engine oil pan, or a piece of wood slipped between back of tt and body can give the control of the parts needed.
I've also removed / installed one with TT attached, like I usually do for automatics.
But that requires clutch removal.
+1 on taking care during the mating of TT and trans.
HF trans jack in back, and a floor jack under engine oil pan, or a piece of wood slipped between back of tt and body can give the control of the parts needed.
I've also removed / installed one with TT attached, like I usually do for automatics.
But that requires clutch removal.
#6
My process has been labeled as "awkward but safe" (which is the name if my new band)-
I take the entire assembly down including shocks, k-member, and tt. This requires removing the clutch.
I take the entire assembly down including shocks, k-member, and tt. This requires removing the clutch.
#7
Three Wheelin'
I just got thru R&R my 81 manual w/TT. Dropped whole rear suspension, then trans & TT?. I find it is easier to do it w/the TT. SeanR gave me tip on how to do it & leave clutch in car.
Trending Topics
#9
Three Wheelin'
It's not that hard. With the TT you have the extra work of R&R the exhaust & heat shields, and the starter/clutch cover. Once you get the clutch exposed you'll see the four bolts that hold the TT to the bell housing. The bottom two are easy, but none of my tools would get to the upper two bolts. I remember that Sean had memtioned that he left the clutch in, so I called him. Here's what he told me to get at Northen Tool. $15.95 universal/socket set http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5076_200415076. They're not SnapOn, but they did the trick.
#13
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I've done one manual swap. I dropped the entire crossmember with suspension, tranny, TT as a single unit, supporting the TT and lowering it as the rear was lowered, I believe. Worked out fine. With an auto tranny swap, I did the crossmember and suspension while the tranny remained chained to the body, as the WSM shows, since the tranny is so heavy and large, then used a tranny jack for the auto tranny and TT. But for the manuals, I don't see a problem dropping the whole mess as a unit, unbolting the TT and tranny from the crossmember once on the ground. Correct me if you think this is a bad idea.
#14
Race Car
When I dropped my TT for bearing replacement, I did not have to remove the clutch. You just need the right length extension for the top two front TT bolts. What worked for me was my standard craftsman 3/8" ratchet and a 1" extension, then the socket (can't remember if it was standard or deep).
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#15
Three Wheelin'
That would be too much like octopus wrestling, too hard to balance. Better to chain up the tranny and drop later. That's what I've done on the three I've had the 'pleasure' to do.