test drive disaster
07-15-2016, 07:50 PM
#1
test drive disaster
after several decent test drives, this one ended as below, not sure what happened but the end result is below. I need A LOT of parts now. (far more than the poor car is worth unfortunately. ouch Fire extinguisher saved the car but just barely. Not a good start to our father/son restoration project. Poor kid (Dad is taking responsibility but that's not much consolation for him right now)
07-15-2016, 10:32 PM
#4
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Sad to see, makes me a bit sick in the stomach. When I was a teenager I had the same happen on a small truck that I was modifying. Put a damper on the project.
I eventually finished it but sold it not long after that. A few months later the new owner totaled the truck. Hope your project goes much better than mine did. Best of luck!
I eventually finished it but sold it not long after that. A few months later the new owner totaled the truck. Hope your project goes much better than mine did. Best of luck!
07-16-2016, 12:30 AM
#5
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Don't fret, this can be salvaged and it might not cost as much as you think. IMHO the cheapest way to make this right again is going to be obtaining a used complete motor. This could have a silver lining, it would be a good chance to do a front and rear reseal of the engine with your son and also replace the clutch and reseal the balance shaft housings. A drop in ready motor will have 95% of the parts you need and you can get them very reasonably priced. Last month I paid 350 dollars for a complete motor locally, then spent another ~75 bucks replacing all seals. A clutch disc is ~100 bucks for a spring center italian. A new water pump is ~ 150. Rod bearings are another ~100 bucks for them + oil pan seal and thats one less thing to worry about. A cylinder head can be refreshed for about 160 bucks. Then just replace the harness and the AFM/Jboot and fab new fuel lines with FI rated clamps and spend some quality time cleaning. You could have an almost completely rebuilt engine in there along with a new clutch and be up and running better than when you started for 1000 bucks easily. A hard pill to swallow, and a lot of work yes; but certainly the car isn't totalled.
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07-16-2016, 08:55 AM
#7
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I can donate a few parts to the cause if you want them - engine harness, coolant tank and some hoses, ignition wires, TPS, and a speedo cable if yours is burned. Let me know... I have other boxes of parts I'll check as well. Maybe a brake fluid reservoir in one of them, and I have a good alternator if that one is covered in melted plastic beyond salvage.
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07-18-2016, 05:04 PM
#11
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As a fellow Father/Son engine fire rescue project, I know your pain all to well. It can be saved though, with perseverance and all the help found on this forum.
Before: http://imgur.com/a/A3ZFA#8
Current: http://imgur.com/O6v1Xbr
Before: http://imgur.com/a/A3ZFA#8
Current: http://imgur.com/O6v1Xbr
07-19-2016, 09:28 AM
#13
Sorry to be slow to come back, thought I was subscribed to my own thread.
I have a similar thread over at pelican too.
I'm getting a pile of stuff from Plyhammer and might come begging back here for the rest.
Advice on how to redo the fuel lines is welcome. The kits are pretty pricey it seems, maybe it is what it is. Looking into piecing it together myself otherwise, not an area to be careless though, as we know best of all!
Current plan is to drop the engine for better access and to get at the release bearing as it was making noise anyway
I have a similar thread over at pelican too.
I'm getting a pile of stuff from Plyhammer and might come begging back here for the rest.
Advice on how to redo the fuel lines is welcome. The kits are pretty pricey it seems, maybe it is what it is. Looking into piecing it together myself otherwise, not an area to be careless though, as we know best of all!
Current plan is to drop the engine for better access and to get at the release bearing as it was making noise anyway
07-19-2016, 09:49 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
I don't think anyone has kits for early cars anymore anyway. I purchased hose and connectors from arnnworx and was quite happy with them when I had to do some fuel line work.
07-19-2016, 04:05 PM
#15
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People are going to flame me for this, but I have used E85 rated gates Barricade hose cut to the proper length, and then double clamped the hose onto the factory barbs on both ends with fuel injection rated hose clamps after carefully cutting away the swagging. I also deleted the fuel damper and the damper line. I have never had an issue in the 3 or so years I've been doing this. It is totally safe, plenty of cars (even Porsches like the FI 914's!) came from the factory with clamped fuel lines.
more info here.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ittings-2.html
One of the cars I did this with was a 951 that saw daily high boost, meaning it's fuel pressure (~65 psi under load) was almost double the ~37 psi an NA car sees. I still own that 951 and the lines still don't leak a drop.
more info here.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ittings-2.html
One of the cars I did this with was a 951 that saw daily high boost, meaning it's fuel pressure (~65 psi under load) was almost double the ~37 psi an NA car sees. I still own that 951 and the lines still don't leak a drop.