3.2 Engine Project
#46
Rennlist Member
Ed's pretty much right, but Henry has multiple kits. One is just the "goops." 4 different ones if I recall correctly. That alone is $100. Then he has the case only or heads only, gaskets and seals, and then the case and heads together, gaskets and seals.
I spent just over $500 for the full case and heads kit and the sealant kit, if I recall correctly. Maybe it's cheaper if you shop around, but I paid for convenience and technical support if I need it. Henry is a "call me anytime" kind of guy.
Brett
I spent just over $500 for the full case and heads kit and the sealant kit, if I recall correctly. Maybe it's cheaper if you shop around, but I paid for convenience and technical support if I need it. Henry is a "call me anytime" kind of guy.
Brett
#47
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
In the mean time I will be back cleaning the other parts, case halves, cam towers, and other little bits.
I'm still pondering if I should pull the oil galley plugs in the case to better facilitate cleaning. Any thoughts on this guys?
#50
Brett
#51
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Unless you had reason to believe metal bits went wandering through the oil galleys, I'd be inclined to leave any plugs alone and be satisfied with running some solvent through under pressure. Just one opinion. Looks like the score is 1 to 1, now. I can't comment on how easy it is to do. If it is indeed easy and ensuring good seal upon replacement of the plugs is not an issue, then do it.
Brett
Brett
Is it a PITA to get them out and then to install the new ones?
Has anyone done this?
I'm also considering bead blasting all the exterior corrosion off the case halves. If I do go this route, I will be masking off all entry points into the oil system, but I would never know if something snuck by, so I would want to do a very thorough cleaning afterward.
Thanks
#52
Rennlist Member
A machine shop would do it for peanuts, if you're hesitant. Why wouldn't you want to make sure that there is no detritus in there? Like I said, you don't plan on doing this again, right?
#54
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Engine bay cleanup
I spent the better part of the day bouncing back and forth between cleaning my chain casings, and cleaning all the old glue out of the engine bay.
Question for those who have gone down this road before me.
Replace the foam sound insulating pad.... or go without one?
Question for those who have gone down this road before me.
Replace the foam sound insulating pad.... or go without one?
Last edited by irobertson; 09-08-2012 at 05:25 PM.
#55
Rennlist Member
I would replace it. The material that is sold these days is of high quality, IMO, and not expensive. It's certainly easy enough to install the new one using the high heat 3M contact cement with you engine out of the way. I always thought you can hear the engine nicely with it.
#56
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I got the oil lines off the tank & thermostat today.
After soaking them with PB Blaster for a couple of days and getting no joy, I finally resorted to cutting the nuts with a dremel tool.
I cut down along the threads and stopped just before I would hit the aluminum. I used a jewellers screwdriver to gauge the depth of the cut vs. the depth to the threads at the end of the nut.
Then I cut in from the back of the nut until I knew I was completely through the back side.
This required cutting into the oil line some as well.
Then I gave them a whack with a cold chisel and split them.
That way I was able to do it without affecting the thermostat or tank threads whatsoever.
Next will be removing the lines from the front cooler.
I expect the same approach will be required.
After soaking them with PB Blaster for a couple of days and getting no joy, I finally resorted to cutting the nuts with a dremel tool.
I cut down along the threads and stopped just before I would hit the aluminum. I used a jewellers screwdriver to gauge the depth of the cut vs. the depth to the threads at the end of the nut.
Then I cut in from the back of the nut until I knew I was completely through the back side.
This required cutting into the oil line some as well.
Then I gave them a whack with a cold chisel and split them.
That way I was able to do it without affecting the thermostat or tank threads whatsoever.
Next will be removing the lines from the front cooler.
I expect the same approach will be required.
#58
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I heat cycled the one on the tank between shots of PB Blaster, but man that thing was stubborn! I was reefing on it with a big crescent wrench and was getting nervous that I was going to damage the tank. Even after splitting the nut, it took almost two turns before it really began to turn with ease.
At that point I kind of resigned myself to a new set of oil lines and went into thermostat preservation mode.
At that point I kind of resigned myself to a new set of oil lines and went into thermostat preservation mode.
#59
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got the front lines undone at the cooler, then pulled the cooler and lines off the car.
While I was in there with a bright light, and with the lines out of the way, I discovered the only road cancer I've ever found on the car!
Two patches on the top edge of the tub, just below where the fender bolts on. Each about 3 inches long.
I can't see it, but can feel it.
I am now officially grumpy!
Mechanical I can deal with, but not rust, ARRGGG!
While I was in there with a bright light, and with the lines out of the way, I discovered the only road cancer I've ever found on the car!
Two patches on the top edge of the tub, just below where the fender bolts on. Each about 3 inches long.
I can't see it, but can feel it.
I am now officially grumpy!
Mechanical I can deal with, but not rust, ARRGGG!