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Trailex Enclosed Load/Unload While Disconnected From Tow Vehicle

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Old 08-09-2021, 05:30 PM
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dave-C2
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Default Trailex Enclosed Load/Unload While Disconnected From Tow Vehicle

I have ordered a torsion bar Trailex enclosed and have some questions about how I'll use it. What fixtures or equipment are required to support the rear of an enclosed Trailex so that a car can be loaded or unloaded without relying on the ball hitch being connected to the tow vehicle?

Thanks
Old 08-09-2021, 08:37 PM
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lowside67
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To load a car into an enclosed trailer without a connection to a tow vehicle, you need to be sure that the trailer will both remain level and also not move forward/backwards.

A pair of jackstands under the rearmost frame rail where it connects to the ramps will do a good job at supporting it from tipping. You also need a GOOD set of tire chocks to primarily prevent it from moving forward, but you should employ them in both directions ideally.

It really adds a lot of risk to load and unload without being hooked to the tow vehicle. Physically it is possible as I've described, but there are a lot of physics at play...

-Mark
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GUMBALL (10-19-2021)
Old 08-10-2021, 09:49 AM
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dave-C2
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Mark, thanks for your careful directions and cautions. Your comments confirm the old adage that a trailer is an accident waiting to happen.

My request was prompted in part because the Trailex is lighter than my car and also I do not know how the rear frame of the trailer is configured. Trailex has a box enclosure for each ramp and the boxes may interfere with placing a jack stand directly under the rear frame.

Curious if anyone on this forum routinely unloads a Trailex when disconnected?
Old 08-10-2021, 10:11 AM
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Kein_Ersatz
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My 1999 Trailex enclosed has built in swing down legs/feet at the rear for this exact purpose. Raise/lower the tongue with "5th wheel" to place the feet firmly on the ground and swing them down/up. I use the Trailex as a portable enclosed "tight" garage in paddock parking. Chock the wheels in both directions to avoid movement. Connected to tow vehicle is better, but not required, just go easy leaving / entering the trailer and find fairly level ground. Remember to swing legs back up before towing, but after connected to tow vehicle.
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tgsmith4845 (11-03-2023)
Old 08-10-2021, 02:26 PM
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forhamilton
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I would advise against this.
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LuigiVampa (11-03-2023)
Old 08-10-2021, 05:50 PM
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linzman
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All of us have at least one trailering "story". Seems like this could be a great source for one. As others have said, be very careful, chock the wheels well in both directions, and put something (jack stands, etc) under the rear frame. That being said, I have a 24' enclosed, it also has the rear fold down supports someone else mentioned, and I do load my car once in a while with the trailer unhitched. So far, so good.
Old 08-10-2021, 06:38 PM
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lowside67
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The longer and heavier the trailer, the more it resists both factors that can cause catastrophe - tilting and moving. A shorter, lighter Trailex will be exponentially less stable while loading unhitched than a 24' enclosed.

-Mark
Old 08-11-2021, 12:16 AM
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Frank 993 C4S
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Sounds like another “trailer story” waiting to happen. I’d advise against it.
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LuigiVampa (11-03-2023)
Old 08-11-2021, 07:58 AM
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Mussl Kar
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Do it all the time, no chocks or jack stands. But I have a 28 foot gooseneck.
Old 08-11-2021, 10:56 AM
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Can it be done correctly? Yes. Is there risk? Yes. Be aware as the car goes out and in, the load on the leaf springs with change and shift the trailer weight on the rear legs, so use substantial wheel chocks on both sides. The use of jack stands in my mind (which are not bolted to the trailer) will have increased risk as I can imagine the trailer twisting / scooting a bit and then missing the placement of the jack stands. The Trailex swing down legs have no such risk as they are bolted to the trailer. When loaded the feet also add friction to the ground and resist movement, but can "lift" as the car comes out. Again, go easy in and out and use real wheel chocks.

Has someone forgotten to lock the trailer ball latch, then proceed to load in a car in and watch in honor as the trailer comes lose from the tow vehicle and all hell breaks lose? Yes.
So even the recommend (stay connected to tow vehicle) has risk and can be error prone.

Does the risk increase with an error in doing loading/unloading in any form? Most differently.

Haven't checked, but if Trailex stopped offering the OEM swing down rear legs, then maybe the error prone risk is too great.

Works for me so far. Time will tell. YMMV.
Old 08-11-2021, 04:04 PM
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Shandingo
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Here is my trailer "story": I had my GT4 loaded on on Trailex open trailer and temporarily lowered the tongue jack and disconnected the hitch from the hitch ball on the tow vehicle so I could measure the tongue weight on the loaded trailer. So far so good. Wheels were chocked in both directions. After measuring the tongue weight, I re-connected the trailer and "locked" the coupler lever. I then pulled the trailer forward about 15 feet to make sure I had enough space behind the trailer to unload the car. Still good. As I started backing the car down the ramps I reached a point when the nose of the trailer started to lift into the sky very quickly. I was able to put the GT4 into first gear and accelerate forward soon enough that the nose of the trailer landed on the driveway and the GT4 was back onto the trailer. To my amazement there was no damage to the trailer, the tow vehicle or the GT4, but I was extremely lucky. Since that time I aways triple check from underneath the coupler to make sure that the coupler locking mechanism is firmly engaged. I realized that when I put the lever down that time the ball was not quite lined up correctly and the latching mechanism missed the hitch ball by a few mm. Not a good experience, but a valuable lesson.
Old 08-11-2021, 08:25 PM
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Trailex doesn't offer the swing down legs anymore- haven't for a while. I've got a 2013 and have only loaded connected to a vehicle. We looked at loading/unloading unconnected, but all the factors mentioned above made it not worth it. It's pretty quick to connect it up- so not worth it to me. Just ordered a 2022 with torsion axles as well. I don't think that's going to change anything with regard to loading/unloading. With the bigger heavier trailers, this isn't an issue. My buddies with 28-30' rigs do it all the time without issue, but they've got a lot more weight and length.
Old 10-31-2023, 06:40 PM
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patriot993
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I am always amazed at the information on Rennlist; was wondering if I could load/unload my enclosed trailer without being attached to the tow vehicle and Voila! here is all of this great info on RL.

Here is my situation - I have a steel building / barn that I plan on storing my trailer in; however if I do that a car will need to be left outside which isn't ideal. So my thought is to use the trailer to store my car as well. I don't have a drive through barn so I will need to position the trailer with the loading door facing the garage door (I will use an ATV to get the trailer into the barn and then I believe that I can roll it by hand as have a smooth concrete floor). There is not enough room to have the to vehicle attached to the trailer in the barn

Assuming all of that works, I could try and load the car. My thought is to install some heavy duty anchor points into the floor that I would use to chain / strap the trailer tongue to so that the trailer doesn't tip. Would chock the trailer wheels really well (or maybe pull the safety pin so trailer brakes are engaged?)

I realize that there is risk in this approach, but does it sound completely crazy? Would using a winch to load/unload reduce any risk (I don't have a winch but could install one if needed)

thanks!
Old 11-02-2023, 04:14 PM
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linzman
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Seems very complicated. Just put some wood blocks under the rear of the trailer so it can't tilt down and chock the wheels to keep it from rolling )although it's unlikely because the enclosed trailer is heavy).

I had a local fab shop mount some folding stabilizer jacks that tucked up into the frame so I didn't have to use wood blocks.

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Originally Posted by patriot993
I am always amazed at the information on Rennlist; was wondering if I could load/unload my enclosed trailer without being attached to the tow vehicle and Voila! here is all of this great info on RL.

Here is my situation - I have a steel building / barn that I plan on storing my trailer in; however if I do that a car will need to be left outside which isn't ideal. So my thought is to use the trailer to store my car as well. I don't have a drive through barn so I will need to position the trailer with the loading door facing the garage door (I will use an ATV to get the trailer into the barn and then I believe that I can roll it by hand as have a smooth concrete floor). There is not enough room to have the to vehicle attached to the trailer in the barn

Assuming all of that works, I could try and load the car. My thought is to install some heavy duty anchor points into the floor that I would use to chain / strap the trailer tongue to so that the trailer doesn't tip. Would chock the trailer wheels really well (or maybe pull the safety pin so trailer brakes are engaged?)

I realize that there is risk in this approach, but does it sound completely crazy? Would using a winch to load/unload reduce any risk (I don't have a winch but could install one if needed)

thanks!
Old 11-02-2023, 04:51 PM
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dave-C2
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My original post was before I received my new Trailex enclosed (which has torsion bars vs springs on previous models). Since then I have been told by Trailex the trailer is not designed for unloading if not hitched to the tow vehicle. Looking at the under side of the back half of the trailer I understand why.

FWIW I have parked beside early Trailex enclosed trailers at various events and noted many differences between the 25 -30 year old design and the new design, especially in the frame construction.

Thanks to all who urged caution and apologies for not posting back sooner.


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