The ATC 250 is extremely well built, and light, at about 2,900 Lbs.

• It is pre-wired for air conditioning should that be a concern to you.
• It also comes with cabinets that are very well built,
• It has three (3) sets of LED interior lights,
• It is wired for shore power, and has multiple 110 outlets.
• It comes a battery to powerrt the lights when no shore power is available.

I have seen only one minor flaw...that is, the poisition of the tie down anchors. They are too far inboard if you want to tie down to the wheels. Because of this I have to tie down to the chassis of the car. This means that I have to crawl around to get the front tie-downs connected diagonally. The fronts are crisscrossed by necessity because the tie diown anchors are too far inboard. If I want to put in anothe set of tie down anchors, that I will do this Fall, I will have to use "U" bolt open at the top (The floor) to secure the re-positioned anchors. In my opinion, the securng of the tie down anchors is half-assed. I'll post up a pic later today.

When you order, specify exactly where you want the tie down anchors. If you are OK with the criss-cross at the front...then don't bother. I would rather anchor the cars with the wheels, and can only live with a straight pull back so as not to put a strain on the car's the alignment. In. addition, the tie down straps are under less strain (They will stay tight) where the car can absorb bumps with its own suspension.

Last thing, there will be freight from the Factory to your dealer, figure $1.50 a miles. A stocking dealer will have to build the cost of the freight they paid into the sell price.

There is a trade off. It is much easier to tie down the transported car's wheels on an open trailer, but the car is open to the world, and possible road debris, and carries a "Steal Me" or vandalize me, sign. The enclosed trailer comes with a pain in the *** tie down process, unless you ties down to the towed car's wheels. And in addition provides shelter and security.

 

Did you mount the tire rack through the trailer or just self tapping screws?

 

I can't send you pics as the ATC is in storage for the summer, too hot for the track. Imagine this, facing the interior left side wall on the drivers side of the trailer, the left side of the trailer, the left side of tire rack was mounted to the trailer's frame structure. The installers, aka the "Butchers", mounted the right side to the interior skin!!!! I'd send you pics but the trailer is in storage. So far the tire rack hasn't pulled out of the trailer wall.

Be certain to isolate the trailers frame verticals, and only install a tire rack that can attach to the trailers' vertical framing. Keeping in mind, the four (4) tires and wheels equals about 200 Lbs, plus the weight of the tire rack. Be sure to mount the tire rack high enough to clear the hood of the car.

Since my mount is half ***, as of recently I do not uses it and will probably take it down, and get a tire rack that is the correct width to be mounted to the trailer's framing structure. Or, no tire rack at all. I only have one set of track wheels, they are on the car....if I had two (2) sets. I'd stack the second set at the front corners of the trailer, two (2) to a side. I think my tire rack is coming down. I hope this helps.

 

We did through the wall/frame because of the ATC aluminum frame members - used Grade 8 plated 3/8" bolts and large washers on the outside - only 4 bolts for 4' aluminum tire rack and can barely see them on a 24' white trailer . . .
A friend has a steel frame Haulmark trailer and used screws into the frame for a large 8' tire rack on the wall - I think he used a lot of screws but don't know exactly how many . . .

Regards,
Roy T

Tire rack and E track locations - ATC 24'

 

Looks very tidy in there...great job!!!

 

What is the height of the E-Track??

 

24" works well for many loose items . . .

Regards,

 

some lag bolts