Level 2 vs Level 3 Charging
#31
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
there is no reason to be concerned about running the battery down to low levels as long as you charge it right back up. despite EVs being around almost a decade now the ability to fast charge is limited when compared to being able to fuel an ICE.
part of the long distance trip driving in an EV is planning your route beforehand, finding your charging stops, I strive to make more short stops and build in the longer sessions around mealtimes, seeing if you can find hotels with an L2 charger so you can drive the battery down and charge as you sleep. but as EVs become more popular those hotel units can get filled quickly so plan on having an alternative nearby.
driving long distances in an EV is very much flying a small plane long distances, you always need to know where you can refuel.
there is no magic to this other than speeds driven, weather conditions, and elevation changes will play a part in how far you can get on a charge.
part of the long distance trip driving in an EV is planning your route beforehand, finding your charging stops, I strive to make more short stops and build in the longer sessions around mealtimes, seeing if you can find hotels with an L2 charger so you can drive the battery down and charge as you sleep. but as EVs become more popular those hotel units can get filled quickly so plan on having an alternative nearby.
driving long distances in an EV is very much flying a small plane long distances, you always need to know where you can refuel.
there is no magic to this other than speeds driven, weather conditions, and elevation changes will play a part in how far you can get on a charge.
Last edited by kort677; 01-25-2022 at 06:49 PM.
#32
Might also be a good idea to look at each of those recommended chargers on PlugShare, ChargeHub or ChargePoint to see other users’ comments and whether there are any red flags about any of the chargers you plan to use.
Forewarned is forearmed, as the saying goes.
Last edited by Zcd1; 01-25-2022 at 11:53 PM.
#33
Rennlist Member
For starters, take a look at www.abetterrouteplanner.com and plan out the long distance trips you generally need to do. This will give you an idea of what your charging options are along those routes.
Might also be a good idea to look at each of those recommended chargers on PlugShare, ChargeHub or ChargePoint to see other users’ comments and whether there are any red flags about any of the chargers you plan to use.
Forewarned is forearmed, as the saying goes.
Might also be a good idea to look at each of those recommended chargers on PlugShare, ChargeHub or ChargePoint to see other users’ comments and whether there are any red flags about any of the chargers you plan to use.
Forewarned is forearmed, as the saying goes.
This is nice to see a change from you dude!
#34
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Adirondack Mountains, New York
Posts: 2,420
Received 318 Likes
on
166 Posts
Something I've never understood, or quite accepted: Why would an 800 V system reduce charging time? Each cell is charged at about 4 volts, and its degradation will depend on its individual charge rate versus degradation characteristics. The cells don't see or care about the voltage at the plug, just the current they are expected to absorb at ~4 volts. Tolerance to fast charging is up to cell design and how well they can be cooled.
Actual charging rate is governed by the battery management system - we must hope the marketing department was not involved in its design. The situation with turbocharging is analogous: you can always dial in more boost, but at a cost to longevity - a cost that may not become manifest for many years. Buying a used EV? Find out how to determine the remaining capacity in its battery (some trick generally required, hopefully not requiring for Porsches the $9000 PIWIS software).
The advantage of 800 V lies elsewhere: smaller cables and/or less I^2/R heat, both within the car and in the charger. The "2" in "I^2" can be significant, perhaps most in the motor and inverter - but I have not seen this discussed much. If Porsche *cells* really do have more tolerance to fast charging than those in other cars, coupled with the necessary cooling system, I'd prefer that Porsche marketed that advantage.
On the OP's original question: leaving the garage every morning with a full "tank" is a major joy of EV ownership. Even more so if you install solar panels. The greatest joy comes from passing gas stations when the temperature is -15°F / -26°C, as it was here yesterday.
Actual charging rate is governed by the battery management system - we must hope the marketing department was not involved in its design. The situation with turbocharging is analogous: you can always dial in more boost, but at a cost to longevity - a cost that may not become manifest for many years. Buying a used EV? Find out how to determine the remaining capacity in its battery (some trick generally required, hopefully not requiring for Porsches the $9000 PIWIS software).
The advantage of 800 V lies elsewhere: smaller cables and/or less I^2/R heat, both within the car and in the charger. The "2" in "I^2" can be significant, perhaps most in the motor and inverter - but I have not seen this discussed much. If Porsche *cells* really do have more tolerance to fast charging than those in other cars, coupled with the necessary cooling system, I'd prefer that Porsche marketed that advantage.
On the OP's original question: leaving the garage every morning with a full "tank" is a major joy of EV ownership. Even more so if you install solar panels. The greatest joy comes from passing gas stations when the temperature is -15°F / -26°C, as it was here yesterday.
#35
Burning Brakes
...The advantage of 800 V lies elsewhere: smaller cables and/or less I^2/R heat, both within the car and in the charger. The "2" in "I^2" can be significant, perhaps most in the motor and inverter - but I have not seen this discussed much. If Porsche *cells* really do have more tolerance to fast charging than those in other cars, coupled with the necessary cooling system, I'd prefer that Porsche marketed that advantage...
So far most EVs have battery packs that max out at a capacity of about 100 kWh. (The new Lucid is 113-118 kWh depending on version.) Those sizes seem to be right around the point where the higher voltage/lower current starts to be meaningful. E.g., the charging rate of the Taycan with the large battery pack maxes out at about 270 kW at low state of charge and ideal temps. Lucid claims they can do over 300 kW peak. By comparison to "Brand T", their 400V V3 Superchargers max out at a mere 250 kW - though Elon has tweeted that this will be going up to 324 kW later this year. As vehicles with larger battery packs, such as in trucks and SUVs, come on the market, they'll be able to support correspondingly higher peak charge rates.
The following 2 users liked this post by whiz944:
Adk46 (01-28-2022),
daveo4porsche (01-28-2022)
#36
Rennlist Member
Exactly right. The individual battery cells don't know whether they are wired into a 400V or 800V (or any other) configuration. In the case of DC Fast Charging, it has to do with the size of the cabling, and keeping the cable and plug/receptacle cooler in the face of very high current. So there can be a marginal advantage to 800V - mitigated by extra attention to insulation, conductor spacing, etc needed at the higher voltage.
So far most EVs have battery packs that max out at a capacity of about 100 kWh. (The new Lucid is 113-118 kWh depending on version.) Those sizes seem to be right around the point where the higher voltage/lower current starts to be meaningful. E.g., the charging rate of the Taycan with the large battery pack maxes out at about 270 kW at low state of charge and ideal temps. Lucid claims they can do over 300 kW peak. By comparison to "Brand T", their 400V V3 Superchargers max out at a mere 250 kW - though Elon has tweeted that this will be going up to 324 kW later this year. As vehicles with larger battery packs, such as in trucks and SUVs, come on the market, they'll be able to support correspondingly higher peak charge rates.
So far most EVs have battery packs that max out at a capacity of about 100 kWh. (The new Lucid is 113-118 kWh depending on version.) Those sizes seem to be right around the point where the higher voltage/lower current starts to be meaningful. E.g., the charging rate of the Taycan with the large battery pack maxes out at about 270 kW at low state of charge and ideal temps. Lucid claims they can do over 300 kW peak. By comparison to "Brand T", their 400V V3 Superchargers max out at a mere 250 kW - though Elon has tweeted that this will be going up to 324 kW later this year. As vehicles with larger battery packs, such as in trucks and SUVs, come on the market, they'll be able to support correspondingly higher peak charge rates.
Charging EV efficiently means sustaining a high average power. Look at the e-Tron, it doesn't have a high peak rate but it can sustain over 150kW for a long long time, so basically from start to finish it will charge up faster than Teslas using so called 250kW chargers.
Pumping 300+kW through a 400V connection generate so much heat they had no choice but to throttle it immediately, not on the cable side where they already liquid cooled them, but inside the car. VAG's 800V system has a much higher theoretical peak rate, but there really isn't a need for that yet. The secret of their quick charging speed is from internal heat management, which means the electronics are still in optimal temperature to be efficient and hence sustain a higher average charge rate. At the same wattage, an 800V system is only pumping half the amperage, generating much less temperature delta.
The following users liked this post:
Der-Schwabe (01-30-2022)
#37
Rennlist Member
Thank you Dave for the insights. I definitely wasn't aware there's a buffer in the battery and its being managed. It just seems a bit inefficient because it's "dead weight" being carried around until it's needed some years later. I wonder if any of that is being used during the launch control, which gives it an extra 50/60 HP. I think the turbo is rated at 616HP, and 670HP during launch control only. How is it coming up with the extra ponies, maybe the buffer...?
I get your point on having the convenience on charging at home overnight, and save 20/30 minutes at the station. Right now, my mentality is why not take advantage of the benefit Porsche is giving me. Also, I am spending that much time waiting to fill up a the Costco now so kinda used to it. But, I will probably get spoiled after a month or so of owning it, and having it charged overnight. I've checked out the different charging setups, and watched hours and hours of YouTube videos on them. I've decided L2 on 50A breaker is good enough for my need. This is going to be used mostly by my wife, and she only takes it shopping or the market so won't be putting that many miles on it.
I get your point on having the convenience on charging at home overnight, and save 20/30 minutes at the station. Right now, my mentality is why not take advantage of the benefit Porsche is giving me. Also, I am spending that much time waiting to fill up a the Costco now so kinda used to it. But, I will probably get spoiled after a month or so of owning it, and having it charged overnight. I've checked out the different charging setups, and watched hours and hours of YouTube videos on them. I've decided L2 on 50A breaker is good enough for my need. This is going to be used mostly by my wife, and she only takes it shopping or the market so won't be putting that many miles on it.
#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
Forgive me, but I don't see how a level 2 at home is going to be any different than a public level 3. I have a level 2 at home and we charge the car one to two times per week (2021 Tesla Model Y). We keep the range of charge to a max of 78% (end of the daily setting). I have never needed a level three charger unless I was on a trip. We can fully charge the car at home in 4 hours. How would a charge speed like that not be sufficient for you at home that you'd consider needing to visit a level 3 charger to keep your car charged instead of at home? I mean I guess I can see if you are an Amazon flex driver or an Uber driver but beyond that, level 2 at home is the way to go.
#39
Rennlist Member
one of the main benefits of EV ownership is @home charging IMHO - just plug it in and forget it - and 340 day’s a year range doesn’t matter - cause your EV is charged overnight like your cell phone, plug it in at night, wake up in the morning and it’s ready…I only used fast charging when away from home or road tripping…
#40
Rennlist Member
Ah, if it's free, use it. If you can get your utility company to pay for your level 2 at home, take them up on that too. The Tesla service guy that's come to our house a couple times for minor stuff exclusively supercharges his model X every day. He has been doing so for 2 years now. Less than 2% battery degradation. Not an issue in my book.
#41
Burning Brakes
Ah, if it's free, use it. If you can get your utility company to pay for your level 2 at home, take them up on that too. The Tesla service guy that's come to our house a couple times for minor stuff exclusively supercharges his model X every day. He has been doing so for 2 years now. Less than 2% battery degradation. Not an issue in my book.
#42
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Adirondack Mountains, New York
Posts: 2,420
Received 318 Likes
on
166 Posts
Starting a thread about engine oil on the 928 forum is frowned upon, since it is a hopelessly complicated subject with only anecdotal data to back up assertions, or the occasional remark from an expert too arcane for most of us to understand or validate. In my own area of expertise there is a similar subject: corrosion. And based on personal experience, I will never again start a thread about a vibration problem. Tough subjects.
Is battery degradation one of these subjects? We have the Uber-anecdotal stories about the early Nissan Leaf — the egregious battery degradation of a car that made little attempt to treat its battery well. EV owners are still suffering from EV skeptics over that car. Then we have the thousands of data points for the Tesla Model S going back ten years (degradation is acceptably low for nearly all cars out to 200,000 km at least), but without any information about how their owners charged their cars; the clear implication, however, is that it must not matter much. (For the specific battery chemistries, BMS, and other variables of Tesla's, that is.)
Is there anything comparable for the newer EVs? Can't be, yet — too soon. I'm not concerned there will be another early Leaf sort of thing, but it's important to distinguish between what you know and what you don't.
A good working assumption is in order about how to treat a battery. Obey it when you can, but don't get all religious about it. Change the oil regularly (20-50 synthetic only!) and you'll be fine.
Is battery degradation one of these subjects? We have the Uber-anecdotal stories about the early Nissan Leaf — the egregious battery degradation of a car that made little attempt to treat its battery well. EV owners are still suffering from EV skeptics over that car. Then we have the thousands of data points for the Tesla Model S going back ten years (degradation is acceptably low for nearly all cars out to 200,000 km at least), but without any information about how their owners charged their cars; the clear implication, however, is that it must not matter much. (For the specific battery chemistries, BMS, and other variables of Tesla's, that is.)
Is there anything comparable for the newer EVs? Can't be, yet — too soon. I'm not concerned there will be another early Leaf sort of thing, but it's important to distinguish between what you know and what you don't.
A good working assumption is in order about how to treat a battery. Obey it when you can, but don't get all religious about it. Change the oil regularly (20-50 synthetic only!) and you'll be fine.
The following users liked this post:
abatis (02-03-2022)
#43
I don't necessarily agree with this view, when road tripping I sometimes run the car down to very low SOC, just this weekend I took it down to 5 miles of range remaining. My car, my driving style has the car running at about <240 mile of range and because I ran into an EA unit with only 1 charger working and 2 cars ahead of me to charge I was forced to run the SOC down. so 100 down to zero is indeed part of my calculations when road tripping.
This person (driver/owner of the below) thought it was OK to run down below 0 miles of range. Blue car is mine. 100% charge.