Coolent level low warning on Boxster Spyder
#1
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Coolent level low warning on Boxster Spyder
Got the coolent level low warning on the dash. Checked under the rear hatch and can't see the fluid line, so it's way under the MIN line. Can anyone advise on which antifreeze to use, if it needs to be diluted with distilled water, etc.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#3
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Just top off with distilled water.
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But the B I G G E R question is, "why is your coolant level so low?". Look into this too. Waterpump leaking? Coolant cap (part number ending in 04) toast? Not tight enough? Other issue?
You need to find out.
#7
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There are two potential causes for the low coolant, leaky water pump as noted or bad O-Ring on the blue cap. i
Sometimes removing the cap, removing the o-ring and cleaning everything will help create a better seal. I did this on mine when I noticed some dried coolant around the cap and it's been fine since.
Sometimes removing the cap, removing the o-ring and cleaning everything will help create a better seal. I did this on mine when I noticed some dried coolant around the cap and it's been fine since.
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#8
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The temp gauge also gets pinned to the right on startup and flashes red, then resets to normal after a bit. Is that indicative of anything specific other than the coolent being low?
#9
Track Day
Ajjra, I too just experienced a low coolant level alarm on my 09 Boxster. I was leaving work, so the car was cold. I got the alarm message before I put the car in gear and acknowledged it. I continued driving and then noticed the coolant temperature was 250 degrees with red light on. I immediately stopped and checked the coolant level; it was not registering within the low and high mark. There were no signs the engine had overheated (no steam or spraying coolant). Started the car and watched the coolant temp, the car reached normal operating temp, also no coolant low message. With one eye on the road and the other on the coolant temp gauge, I made the 1 hour drive home with no issues. The next day I added about one quart of distilled water to the system and cleaned the cap, drove to work (one hour drive each way). The next morning the coolant level was at the same full level. I will be monitoring the coolant level closely for the next couple of months.
I believe the behavior yours and my car experienced was the way it was designed. With the temp gauge at max and red light on, the car is demanding the driver to get out and check the coolant level!
My cap number is 987.106.044.00, I have not found a TSB or why some people say this is a bad cap.
rob
I believe the behavior yours and my car experienced was the way it was designed. With the temp gauge at max and red light on, the car is demanding the driver to get out and check the coolant level!
My cap number is 987.106.044.00, I have not found a TSB or why some people say this is a bad cap.
rob
#10
Once that's done (happened to me), if not evacuated, that stuck air pocket/bubble etc. will expand and potentially blow coolant/overheat the car on track from that point on.
Point is, once you've had a potential low coolant/red light/overheat/air introduction, because it's so easy to get air bubbles introduced and stuck all the way at the front in the radiators,
for cars with track use, it's important to have the cooling system put under vacuum to make sure whatever air was introduced is removed. (street cars may not notice, it's obvious on track)
Last edited by A432; 11-14-2015 at 04:06 PM.
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