Cayman R Modifications???
#18
very very nice.
on a side note, what tyres do you run ?
I need some track tyres and r888 are not the right size
and in the UK you cannot get a lot of makes for some reason.
on a side note, what tyres do you run ?
I need some track tyres and r888 are not the right size
and in the UK you cannot get a lot of makes for some reason.
#20
Rennlist Member
I know this is an old thread but I'm looking for advice from everyone that posted on it as I am going thru a similar setup process to the above with my CR.
I'm an intermediate driver (average mid 1:50s at LS) with a stock CR with PS2's. 2 days at LS and 1 day at Sonoma so far with this car and the fronts are wearing pretty obviously on the outside edges. Front camber is -1. Rears are wearing fine at -1.6.
Not a daily driver, pretty much just drive to the track and maybe once a week pleasure cruise in the SC mountains. So probably 60% hwy miles and 40% track miles.
I pulled the RSS LCAs off my old 996 and I'm having BRRacing install those on the car next week along with RSS rear toe links. I'm pondering camber set up, Bruce wants to go -2.4 in the front, -2 in the rear. I'm wondering if that is too much given the PS2's. I'm wondering if -2F and -1.6R might be better for my car at this point. My plan is to use up the PS2s and a fairly new set of Yoko AD08Rs until I think I'm fast enough to warrant R comps.
thanks for any advice on camber/alignment specs!
Rich
I'm an intermediate driver (average mid 1:50s at LS) with a stock CR with PS2's. 2 days at LS and 1 day at Sonoma so far with this car and the fronts are wearing pretty obviously on the outside edges. Front camber is -1. Rears are wearing fine at -1.6.
Not a daily driver, pretty much just drive to the track and maybe once a week pleasure cruise in the SC mountains. So probably 60% hwy miles and 40% track miles.
I pulled the RSS LCAs off my old 996 and I'm having BRRacing install those on the car next week along with RSS rear toe links. I'm pondering camber set up, Bruce wants to go -2.4 in the front, -2 in the rear. I'm wondering if that is too much given the PS2's. I'm wondering if -2F and -1.6R might be better for my car at this point. My plan is to use up the PS2s and a fairly new set of Yoko AD08Rs until I think I'm fast enough to warrant R comps.
thanks for any advice on camber/alignment specs!
Rich
#21
I'm running -2.5 F/-2.3 R (which is about the limit of the stock rear adj) with R-S3's
and the wear is amazingly even with 50% street/50% track....(the street miles like you = to track + weekend)
Imho what wears the inside on the street is when you have camber + toe plus running pressures too high,
if you have little toe in the front and the correct toe in the back with not running pressures too high, the camber doesn't wear the inside as bad as you might think.
The outsides with 2.5/2.3 are wearing just about perfect at the track, even with dropping pressures to find that last bit of time.
and the wear is amazingly even with 50% street/50% track....(the street miles like you = to track + weekend)
Imho what wears the inside on the street is when you have camber + toe plus running pressures too high,
if you have little toe in the front and the correct toe in the back with not running pressures too high, the camber doesn't wear the inside as bad as you might think.
The outsides with 2.5/2.3 are wearing just about perfect at the track, even with dropping pressures to find that last bit of time.
Last edited by A432; 12-28-2014 at 02:15 PM.
#22
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Bill,
I totally agreed with you up until this past weekend. I was doing some work on the spyder and noticed the outer shoulder of my front tires have worn down through the tread. I've only tracked the car twice and they already look that way. Unfortunately it looks like I'm going to be investing in a set of lower control arms to increase the front camber so I don't prematurely wear away expensive tires. Obviously, this is on my spyder, so I'm curious to know if any CR owners who track their cars have the same issue, or if it's because the alignment on the spyders are more conservative.
BTW Bill, I did a double take when I saw you now have a CR. What happened to the GT3? You're going to have to stir the GT3 pot a little bit and tell us why you switched to a CR over a GT3. Welcome back to the flock!
I totally agreed with you up until this past weekend. I was doing some work on the spyder and noticed the outer shoulder of my front tires have worn down through the tread. I've only tracked the car twice and they already look that way. Unfortunately it looks like I'm going to be investing in a set of lower control arms to increase the front camber so I don't prematurely wear away expensive tires. Obviously, this is on my spyder, so I'm curious to know if any CR owners who track their cars have the same issue, or if it's because the alignment on the spyders are more conservative.
BTW Bill, I did a double take when I saw you now have a CR. What happened to the GT3? You're going to have to stir the GT3 pot a little bit and tell us why you switched to a CR over a GT3. Welcome back to the flock!
No current generation 987 or 997 can have adequate camber up front FOR TRACK DAYS without a 2-piece control arm setup or some way to add camber. The lack of sufficient front camber (sometimes at 1.1 and other times 1.7) will mow off your outside front tire, ESPECIALLY at tracks with long duration fast corners. As far as other mods, the 987.2 Cayman R is capable of having roughly 30rwhp bolted to it without modifying the motor. This is done via exhaust, intake and tuning. Cheers!
DISREGARD ALL OF THIS! Sorry...I had no idea this post was 2 years old! My apologies.
#23
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I'm running -2.5 F/-2.3 R (which is about the limit of the stock rear adj) with R-S3's
and the wear is amazingly even with 50% street/50% track....(the street miles like you = to track + weekend)
Imho what wears the inside on the street is when you have camber + toe plus running pressures too high,
if you have little toe in the front and the correct toe in the back with not running pressures too high, the camber doesn't wear the inside as bad as you might think.
The outsides with 2.5/2.3 are wearing just about perfect at the track, even with dropping pressures to find that last bit of time.
and the wear is amazingly even with 50% street/50% track....(the street miles like you = to track + weekend)
Imho what wears the inside on the street is when you have camber + toe plus running pressures too high,
if you have little toe in the front and the correct toe in the back with not running pressures too high, the camber doesn't wear the inside as bad as you might think.
The outsides with 2.5/2.3 are wearing just about perfect at the track, even with dropping pressures to find that last bit of time.
#24
Nordschleife Master
I know this is an old thread but I'm looking for advice from everyone that posted on it as I am going thru a similar setup process to the above with my CR.
I'm an intermediate driver (average mid 1:50s at LS) with a stock CR with PS2's. 2 days at LS and 1 day at Sonoma so far with this car and the fronts are wearing pretty obviously on the outside edges. Front camber is -1. Rears are wearing fine at -1.6.
Not a daily driver, pretty much just drive to the track and maybe once a week pleasure cruise in the SC mountains. So probably 60% hwy miles and 40% track miles.
I pulled the RSS LCAs off my old 996 and I'm having BRRacing install those on the car next week along with RSS rear toe links. I'm pondering camber set up, Bruce wants to go -2.4 in the front, -2 in the rear. I'm wondering if that is too much given the PS2's. I'm wondering if -2F and -1.6R might be better for my car at this point. My plan is to use up the PS2s and a fairly new set of Yoko AD08Rs until I think I'm fast enough to warrant R comps.
thanks for any advice on camber/alignment specs!
Rich
I'm an intermediate driver (average mid 1:50s at LS) with a stock CR with PS2's. 2 days at LS and 1 day at Sonoma so far with this car and the fronts are wearing pretty obviously on the outside edges. Front camber is -1. Rears are wearing fine at -1.6.
Not a daily driver, pretty much just drive to the track and maybe once a week pleasure cruise in the SC mountains. So probably 60% hwy miles and 40% track miles.
I pulled the RSS LCAs off my old 996 and I'm having BRRacing install those on the car next week along with RSS rear toe links. I'm pondering camber set up, Bruce wants to go -2.4 in the front, -2 in the rear. I'm wondering if that is too much given the PS2's. I'm wondering if -2F and -1.6R might be better for my car at this point. My plan is to use up the PS2s and a fairly new set of Yoko AD08Rs until I think I'm fast enough to warrant R comps.
thanks for any advice on camber/alignment specs!
Rich
Maybe try -2.2 up front and -2.0 in the rear to start with? I think -2.4 is probably your 'goal' on street tires.
LOL. The post threw me for a loop for second until I realized the same!
#25
2.3-2.4R by stock adjusters, but like you said it seems to be a sweet spot for street/track.
Interested to see how -2.5F works this year on NT01's.
#27
Here's been my experience:
-2.4 camber front & rear with 0 toe front and slight toe-in rear. Ran NT-01s for dozens of days and that worked well. My NT-01s lasted for many DE days... IIRC high teens or even 20 before cording. Towards the end I wanted to switch them out but they just kept on going! There was some indication that I may need more negative camber but also some indication maybe I needed less - slightly confusing.
Anyway, "they" told me Hoosiers like more negative camber so I increased negative camber to -2.8 in the front. Well, I corded those USED Hoosiers in 1 day.... OK, strictly speaking, couple of sessions then 1 full day months later. Thankfully I had back up (more used Hoosiers). I noticed outside cording at Road Atlanta at the end of first day with Chin (lots of track time), but when I took the wheels off cording was much worse on the inside. Granted these were used Hoosiers, but that seemed to indicate I need less negative camber in the front. Going back to -2.4 camber front & rear for me.....
-2.4 camber front & rear with 0 toe front and slight toe-in rear. Ran NT-01s for dozens of days and that worked well. My NT-01s lasted for many DE days... IIRC high teens or even 20 before cording. Towards the end I wanted to switch them out but they just kept on going! There was some indication that I may need more negative camber but also some indication maybe I needed less - slightly confusing.
Anyway, "they" told me Hoosiers like more negative camber so I increased negative camber to -2.8 in the front. Well, I corded those USED Hoosiers in 1 day.... OK, strictly speaking, couple of sessions then 1 full day months later. Thankfully I had back up (more used Hoosiers). I noticed outside cording at Road Atlanta at the end of first day with Chin (lots of track time), but when I took the wheels off cording was much worse on the inside. Granted these were used Hoosiers, but that seemed to indicate I need less negative camber in the front. Going back to -2.4 camber front & rear for me.....
#28
Rennlist Member
Guys, thanks to all for chiming in! Sounds like the general consensus is close to the 2.4F and 2+ rear that Bruce at BRR is recommending so I'll go ahead with settings in that range. He's always done me right in the past but it's always good to see what everyone else is doing as well.
Next track day I'll be rolling with the GT3 MC/stainless lines which I just had done and pfc08's / new fluid all the way around. Add the new camber/alignment settings and it should be all good!
Next track day I'll be rolling with the GT3 MC/stainless lines which I just had done and pfc08's / new fluid all the way around. Add the new camber/alignment settings and it should be all good!
#29
Rennlist Member
Resurrecting an old thread. I just bought a Cayman R, 5000 miles, one owner, manual, buckets, PSE, Nav, Bose, Xenons, Spot Chrono, and white with black interior. I want to use it for 6-10 track days a year. I used to drive on the track regularly in the 2000s, but not so much since 2009. I am an intermediate driver and want to make a few mods to get it track ready. I'd very much like to here from others with a Cayman R or an S who drive their car on the track. I have the following list so far.
1) RSS Control Arms to allow for more negative camber.
2) 18 Inch wheels.
3) Better tires (but not R Compounds).
4) SRF brake fluid.
5) Numeric Shifter Cables.
Any other mods that I should consider for the first year or two? What are folks using for brake pads? What about the third radiator for extra cooling?
I really appreciate any thoughts. Thanks.
1) RSS Control Arms to allow for more negative camber.
2) 18 Inch wheels.
3) Better tires (but not R Compounds).
4) SRF brake fluid.
5) Numeric Shifter Cables.
Any other mods that I should consider for the first year or two? What are folks using for brake pads? What about the third radiator for extra cooling?
I really appreciate any thoughts. Thanks.
#30
Rennlist Member
I prefer pagid yellow pads. Oem R pads stop well but are hard on the rotors. Gt3 master cylinder is easy to do and shortens up the long travel on the brake pedal quite a bit which i prefer though does nothing for feel.