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I'm having the same problems with my Cayman S 2010 pdk
Did you have the overtemp alert, changed the sensor and still getting the overtemp alert? If so, please post more details here, if not I suggest you start a new tread. for the troubleshooting.
Feel free to PM me and I'll help as much as I can.
Not a lot to report as far as updates on my Spyder. I've continued driving it with no issues. I'm still planning to drop the transmission pan at some point to inspect the solenoids / hydraulic block.
rsche boxster spyder 987.2 whit same problems im chile
Hello I have a porsche boxster spyder 987.2 in chile with the same sensor problem can't shift out of 1st gear
In the porsche delership they told me they can only replace the gearbox it costs 10k and they cand not fix them.
I want to know what you did with the car finally
How we fix it
Thank you very much for the post
Nice Spyder. The code (P1731) indicates an shift rod error: "Distance sensor information/shift rod faults (outside of validity range)"
I'm in no way a PDK expert but my take on it is that the sensors indicate a shift rod is not getting to the expected position. I see three possible reasons for that:
1, Problem with the actuation (hydraulics)
2, Mechanical failure on the gearbox side
3, Sensor / wiring issue
My suggested trouble shooting steps for each possibility are listed below. Note that there is very little information available so it will likely to difficult to come up with a definite diagnosis. A shotgun approach may required which unfortunately is expensive and time consuming.
If you notice anything suspicious consider replacing that solenoid or the whole hydraulic unit. Consider dropping transmission pan and inspect hydraulic block and solenoids for any signs of failure/damage.
2, While you could try to find a transmission shop that is willing to open up the gearbox side it will be very difficult to find any spare parts so you probably want to consider finding a used replacement gearbox or go for the refurbed from Porsche.
3, You can check the connector / wiring on the gearbox side paying particular attention to pins 7-10. I don't have the expected values for that connector but could probably get them. You can also open the gearbox side and replace the sensors. Per the thread referenced above there are sellers in China that have these.
Wouldn't hurt to try to run the calibration procedure before doing any of this, you never know (any shop/owner with a PIWIS can do this). Please keep us posted on what you decide to do.
...by the way, do you know when replacing the valve body do I need any special tool kit for repairing, I mean for disassemble the gear box or it is not neccesary since it's easily accessible and there is nothing that can be peel off and re-stick? Thanx in advance
...by the way, do you know when replacing the valve body do I need any special tool kit for repairing, I mean for disassemble the gear box or it is not neccesary since it's easily accessible and there is nothing that can be peel off and re-stick? Thanx in advance
To drop the transmission pan and replace the hydraulic block you shouldn't need any special tools. The workshop manual calls out a (very expensive) torque-to-yield torque wrench to fasten the aluminum bolts that hold the plastic pan in place but I think most people just use a regular torque wrench.
You will however need a PIWIS to fill the clutch side of the transmission up with fluid and to calibrate it.
To drop the transmission pan and replace the hydraulic block you shouldn't need any special tools. The workshop manual calls out a (very expensive) torque-to-yield torque wrench to fasten the aluminum bolts that hold the plastic pan in place but I think most people just use a regular torque wrench.
You will however need a PIWIS to fill the clutch side of the transmission up with fluid and to calibrate it.
Is the valve body on the clutch side of the case? I think I remember (but I'm old, so..) that the valve body lived in the transmission/gear side (clean side) of the transmission. Is it possible to drop just the transmission/gear pan? I have diagrams somewhere - but too late tonight to look them up. That would save having to replace the expensive clutch oil..
Is the valve body on the clutch side of the case? I think I remember (but I'm old, so..) that the valve body lived in the transmission/gear side (clean side) of the transmission. Is it possible to drop just the transmission/gear pan? I have diagrams somewhere - but too late tonight to look them up. That would save having to replace the expensive clutch oil..
I guess they figured the risk of it plugging up due to clutch friction particles is less than it plugging up due to gear debris and wear particles.
Just a thought - as long as it's going to be open - replacing the pan might not be a bad idea since the filter is part of the pan.
Off topic a little but for my education, looking at this diagram. The filter in the pan filters the clutch fluid and not the gear box fluid? Or the other way around? I have tried looking this up before and ended up more confused.
Off topic a little but for my education, looking at this diagram. The filter in the pan filters the clutch fluid and not the gear box fluid? Or the other way around? I have tried looking this up before and ended up more confused.
Took the first small steps in the troubleshooting process this evening.
- Check sensor supply +5 and ground inputs at the gearbox clutch side connector
Disconnected the cable at the transmission and measured a solid 5V sensor supply voltage on the connector (pins 13 and 14)
hello very good information thanks you..i have a 2011 987 boxster spyder in chile whit the error code (p1731) i need to buy the temperature sensor pack anyone knows were i can found the sensor my vin: WP0ZZZ98ZBS740923.. and you recomend me to clean the side conector of the gerabox too??? thnks again..
hello very good information thanks you..i have a 2011 987 boxster spyder in chile whit the error code (p1731) i need to buy the temperature sensor pack anyone knows were i can found the sensor my vin: WP0ZZZ98ZBS740923.. and you recomend me to clean the side conector of the gerabox too??? thnks again..
Any Porsche dealer should be able to get the temperature sensor repair kit but here's one link:
Considering the level of contamination around all of the electrical connections, I wonder if simply separating, cleaning and resetting all connections/codes might clear the problem.
At work with potentially dirty electrical connections it's our first stop "separated and cleaned cannon plugs, ops checks good"
Sometimes a momentary interruption or short of a line/connection can log a code elsewhere that doesn't actually represent a failure of that specific line/system.
Originally Posted by stjoh
That's a good point, seeing a lot of issues with connectors and harnesses at work too. While the pins looked clean and non pushed back it sure wouldn't hurt to hit them with a bit of cleaner and disconnect and reconnect it a couple of times. Planning to monitor the sensor resistance when wiggling wires too.
Originally Posted by stjoh
Cleaned the connector and the area around it carefully. Used electronics cleaner on the pins and seated and unseated the connector a couple of times.
Originally Posted by stjoh
Not a lot to report as far as updates on my Spyder. I've continued driving it with no issues. I'm still planning to drop the transmission pan at some point to inspect the solenoids / hydraulic block.
Hey stjoh, wondering if this is still solving your issues? Thanks.
Yes, it's been running flawlessly ever since. Based on that I'll probably hold off a bit longer on dropping the pan as fluid and filter was recently replaced.
04-16-2020, 07:52 PM
