Oil sump or not?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oil sump or not?
After my motor died on the last race of my first/rookie SPB race weekend (LRP) I'm putting in a 'new' motor and wondering if I should put some oiling improvements (deep sump, accusump, ...) beyond the extra oil cooler. My mechanic, which I trust, claims that neither of these does anything useful to improve oiling, but I also see these being used widely in other SPB cars, hence this thread to open up a discussion, hopefully with experiences, facts, links, data, and analysis anyone cares to post.
At the minimum, I'd like to know if any of these sump solutions could hurt the motor in any way -- beyond hurting my wallet.
Also, how many here use sump solutions and which kinds/brands?
Thanks much in advance!
At the minimum, I'd like to know if any of these sump solutions could hurt the motor in any way -- beyond hurting my wallet.
Also, how many here use sump solutions and which kinds/brands?
Thanks much in advance!
#4
Rennlist Member
+1. I chose the LN Engineering deep sum kit with metal baffle because it has a windage tray. There also seems to be some love for the FVD kit. I opted not to do an accusump because it adds weight, it's a pain to install, it's a pain to change oil, and when I had one on a previous 987, I never observed an instance where it activated on track with the deep sump installed.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Any evidence (data, article, link, logic, anecdotal) that the deep sump helps at all? And which ones are better than the rest?
#6
Rennlist Member
Might talk with Chris Cervelli. For a while I think he used the LN 2L deep sumps. Those, FVD, and the later Mantis are popular (2L).
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/954529-oil-pressure-in-right-sweepers.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/981880-boxster-dry-sump-system.html
There are other good threads but I haven't found them quickly.
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/954529-oil-pressure-in-right-sweepers.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/981880-boxster-dry-sump-system.html
There are other good threads but I haven't found them quickly.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ace, thx much for the links! Both helpful and depressing.
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#8
Registered User
Deep Sump
Mantissport sump has been developed since 2006 on our GTB-1 , PWC Cayman S, we are the only ones which provide race track Data about oil pressure during a race. The latest version is our 3rd design with refinements.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The clearance/damage question is also for those who have the deep sump on their cars. Chris Cervelli doesn't seem too enthusiastic about the deep sump in the other (dry sump) thread.
#10
Rennlist Member
That's what I thought. It could be worse though.
A lot of folks with deep sumped motors have said they got +/-10k track miles out of the original motor. At 75 mph average that's about 130 hours, so call it 100-150 hours. A dry sump would do better as oiling still seems to drive engine failure.
I hear the transmission goes more often than the engine though and cooling is important. With cooling Chris C. recommended some rework at 4k miles and replacement at 8k. At 75 mph average again that comes to 50 and 100 hours.
A lot of folks with deep sumped motors have said they got +/-10k track miles out of the original motor. At 75 mph average that's about 130 hours, so call it 100-150 hours. A dry sump would do better as oiling still seems to drive engine failure.
I hear the transmission goes more often than the engine though and cooling is important. With cooling Chris C. recommended some rework at 4k miles and replacement at 8k. At 75 mph average again that comes to 50 and 100 hours.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm thinking the 1.2L (shallower) one, if effective, may be a nice compromise with regards to clearance.
#12
Registered User
Hi, the sumps we sell are the latest design, the depth of the sump, is not an issue. Either one fits under the plastic covers. Yes, dry sump is the absolute fix, but at what cost. 2L sump,is 1" thick, the stock sump plate is 5/8" thick.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thx. Is the posted data referring to the 2L sump? If yes, how does the 1.2L compare? Is the 2L sump only 3/8" (1"-5/8") lower than the stock pan's lowest point?
#14
Registered User
Hi, ok made an error, the 2L Mantis sump is 1.5" thick, so 1.5"- .625"= .875" or 7/8 " deeper than a stock pan. We did not test the 1.2 pan as We are racing, the 1.2 L was meant for 996/997. To give those a bit more ground clearance since the engine hangs off back. The mid engines not an issue. More oil is the plan. The 1.2 L sump is 1" thick.
#15
Rennlist Member
Deep sump clearance will be fine unless you straddle some extreme step-off curbing, i.e. outside of T2 trackout at NJMP. Ask me how I know
A deep sump is a worthwhile investment. Other than an IMS bearing the rest is probably crap and wishful thinking.
A deep sump is a worthwhile investment. Other than an IMS bearing the rest is probably crap and wishful thinking.