Alignment blues: Unable to get equal camber from side to side in the front.
#1
Alignment blues: Unable to get equal camber from side to side in the front.
I've been trying to align my Boxster in preparation for the upcoming weekend. This is the first alignment after converting to PSS9s and GT3 arms with uniballs front and rear. Fronts are CUP LCAs with solid caster pucks-
Front shims are equal on both sides and so are the rear shims.
Problem one was expected. I have wayyy to much toe out in the rear due to the too-short original toe rods. I need to machine the shims thinner or remove them.
Problem two was unexpected: I only have one set of shims for the front.
Left front camber is at -3.3 with the Tarret top mount all the way in. I can't get more camber by moving the top mount on this side.
Right front camber is at -4.0 with the Tarret top mount all the way out. I can't get less camber by moving the top mount on this side.
Any thoughts on what could cause such a huge difference from side to side in the front? I have found no indications the car has been crashed.
I left the front caster pucks in the same position as the previous owner. They looked identical from side to side. I have about degree more caster on one side than the other according to my alignment machine. This corresponds roughly to the difference in camber.
I have PSS9s that I Bought second hand. I installed them as I got them and did not check what height the were set to. Could a difference in ride height from side to side cause something like this?
Front shims are equal on both sides and so are the rear shims.
Problem one was expected. I have wayyy to much toe out in the rear due to the too-short original toe rods. I need to machine the shims thinner or remove them.
Problem two was unexpected: I only have one set of shims for the front.
Left front camber is at -3.3 with the Tarret top mount all the way in. I can't get more camber by moving the top mount on this side.
Right front camber is at -4.0 with the Tarret top mount all the way out. I can't get less camber by moving the top mount on this side.
Any thoughts on what could cause such a huge difference from side to side in the front? I have found no indications the car has been crashed.
I left the front caster pucks in the same position as the previous owner. They looked identical from side to side. I have about degree more caster on one side than the other according to my alignment machine. This corresponds roughly to the difference in camber.
I have PSS9s that I Bought second hand. I installed them as I got them and did not check what height the were set to. Could a difference in ride height from side to side cause something like this?
Last edited by bebbetufs; 07-26-2023 at 07:36 PM.
#2
Something isn't right. It's doubtful that the chassis is that far off left to right, unless the car has tub damage. Go back through your coilovers and make sure springs and spring seats are on right. Make sure strut tops are fully seated, etc. Make sure your coilover bottoms are even left to right as far as how deep they are mounted in the uprights. They should be pretty much all the way down w/ maybe 2-3 cm of clearance to the ball joint bolt. If you are running PSS9's you may want a bit more space there b/c the adjustment is on the bottom.
Mine is shimmed symmetrically but definitely the tops are not symmetrical to get matching camber but it's well within the slots.
Always set your ride height first. Use coilovers to set ride height don't slide the shocks up/down in the uprights.
Mine is shimmed symmetrically but definitely the tops are not symmetrical to get matching camber but it's well within the slots.
Always set your ride height first. Use coilovers to set ride height don't slide the shocks up/down in the uprights.
Last edited by Nickshu; 07-27-2023 at 12:02 PM.
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bebbetufs (07-27-2023)
#4
Are you allowed to use the Tarett upper camber plates in SPB?
A common thing I've heard of but would never do since it isn't written in the rule book is to slot the front upper body mounts. Someone told me about that one time but I don't remember who it was
Also, don't forget to zero out your camber gauge or you will be chasing your tail!
--Aaron
A common thing I've heard of but would never do since it isn't written in the rule book is to slot the front upper body mounts. Someone told me about that one time but I don't remember who it was
Also, don't forget to zero out your camber gauge or you will be chasing your tail!
--Aaron
__________________
#6
Not sure if you are using a rack, or home set-up. Especially after "the machinery needs calibration comment". While this seems obvious, is the surface completely level?
Back story. I do all of my alignments on my SM. When rolling out a new car which was set up by the builder I noted it was "off". Got it home and put it on my equipment and found exactly what you are experiencing. One side was spot on, the other was off. Very off. I know the car builder well and he does not make mistakes. So we check the level of everything and sure enough that was the main issue. The rack they used was simply not level.
Back story. I do all of my alignments on my SM. When rolling out a new car which was set up by the builder I noted it was "off". Got it home and put it on my equipment and found exactly what you are experiencing. One side was spot on, the other was off. Very off. I know the car builder well and he does not make mistakes. So we check the level of everything and sure enough that was the main issue. The rack they used was simply not level.
#7
Thanks for your insights.
The machine used is an RAV alignment machine. The surface was level and the machine is definitely out.
I later used a string system which made it a lot easier and more intuitive to get things set up correctly.
The machine used is an RAV alignment machine. The surface was level and the machine is definitely out.
I later used a string system which made it a lot easier and more intuitive to get things set up correctly.