I keep hearing that the only way to drive these cars is to get off the brakes and modulate the gas as soon a possible on corner entry. My problem is that is not how I drive, nor do I believe that it is the fastest way through the corner as it is very easy to overslow the car. Instead I prefer to carry as much speed into the corner as possible under light braking, and in most corners feel that I have overslowed if I get back on the gas before the apex. This is how I drove my previous race cars (944 variants up to 500+ rwHP) and still drive my 981 street car (see ).

I'm running the square setup, 450F/500R springs, Tarrett sways (1 from full hard front/ full soft rear), slight toe out front, slight toe in back, camber is -3.4 front/ -2.75 rear, level to slight positive rake.

Thoughts for decreasing corner entry oversteer?

 

No time to delve into your question as I watched for 15 seconds.. but does your throttle graphic really show your actual throttle position? And if it's about the SPB, why is the video of a 981? Two very different animals to get speed out of.

 

No, if you read the description, Harry's lap timer was not showing full throttle, but does show when it was being applied and foot coming off going into corner. The reason to show the video was to show corner entry speed under light braking and then getting back on the gas at apex. This is something that I cannot do in the SPB as I need to be back on the gas well before the apex to keep the back from coming out. I prefer to drive as is shown in the video, I have not been able to set up my SPB in this manner.

Working on getting a comparison lap up in the SPB.

 

Ok, here is a lap in my SPB. I don't have throttle or braking on the VBOX yet, but you can hear me getting back on the gas much earlier in order to keep the rear planted.

 

**Warning: Arm chair racing coach/instructor opinion**

I have no credentials to validate my advice other than being a PCA instructor and 3 years of racing experience, so feel free to ignore all advice.

There are two ways to deal with a recalcitrant race car:
1 Adjust your driving to how the car is behaving (the only option during the race), or
2 Adjust your car to how you want it to behave (test and tune days)

It sounds like you're doing option 1, however how far have you gone down option 2?
Have you lowered hot tire temps on the rear?
Stiffened sway bar up front?
Reduced the toe out up front?
Reduced rear camber?
Increased rear toe in?
Adjusted ballast (if you're using any)?

I'd start with these and progressively chip away at the stone to rein the car into a balance zone where you're comfortable during corner entry.

 

The SPB is inherently very loose on entry, but is settled very quickly with throttle. You can't charge into the corners with speed like you can with other cars, unless you're the top 1% of racers that can control entry rotation by trailbraking with consistency, precision, and quick hands.

Suggestion 1: disconnect the rear swaybar.

Suggestion 2: coaching.

 

Yes a bit squirrelly but with bar off you can really chuck these cars into corners without spinning - the tire has lots of slip angle grip

You'd also benefit from bribing or paying someone to help with setup - mine is miles different than that

 

I was hesitant to pull the rear bar thinking it may be too much of an effect. Are you suggesting to run with no rear bar or to put the stock back on?

 

If you fear too much entrance oversteer starting with no rear bar will move you in right direction

What I'm also saying is these cars are able to be thrown into a corner without looping around so if yours is out of control I'd work on it

 

Pulling the rear bar is an ok start for feel but important to know your baseline setup
No LSD makes the rear end tricky at the limit on corner entry but as others have said there's tons of tire and many details to get right with setup
Spring choice i.e. 450f or 500f
Ride height (hint: bumpsteer)
Rake
The car is VERY responsive to rear toe changes
Binding (lower control arms, drop links)
How old are shocks
Adapt your driving to the car - yes you can refine the setup but the car fundamentally needs some early throttle to settle and connect the rear
There is a bunch of stuff to get right and if you're not confident about the process of sorting out then hire someone to help you

 

Boy did I find that out when my adjustment bolt came loose at Thunderbolt a couple years ago! Car looped every time I had to make a turn, couldn't find the issue, finally felt it self-adjust and try to turn the *** end going down the back straight...

 

Removing the rear bar has helped but need way more camber in the rear based on what others are doing here at Barber. Need to break out the wallet and upgrade to rear GT3 LCAs to make that happen.

 

I find that you can often use the SPBs strengths to mitigate the weaknesses. Sometimes you can take a later entry, throw it in, get the rotation done quickly and then put your foot to the floor. Way before apex. Yes, you are giving up some but you more then make it back on exit speed.

 

corner entry oversteer is not cured by more negative camber - that DECREASES your effective contact patch when the tire has relatively low lateral load (think initial phase of turn-in +/- trail braking)

early (not entry) to MID corner oversteer is cured by more negative camber in the rear

read the thread again and work the details

the solution is not in buying parts

 

I've had the same experience, coming from 944SuperCup now into SPB. It's taken awhile but after getting a coach in the car and much help to finally arrive at a proper setup, I'm driving differently, Slowing the car earlier and on full throttle usually before apex and it's a barnstormer now!