Originally Posted by Matt Marks

OK - got this working today - sorry no pictures as there is zero room and I'd hit my frustration level.

Started the project by removing the "pistol" some weeks ago. I used a grinder to cut off all of the steering lock mechanism - basically the last inch and a half - but left the lug or whatever it's called so I could still use the standard mounting point. the goal was to leave the induction coil powered up so I could put the key in the ignition and allow the DME to start. Basically the tumbler portion is just the "holder" for the key/pill. This way I can remove the key if desired so I have a modicum of anti-theft should I choose to.

I chose the Longacre panel Link to OG Racing with ignition, starter, and two accessory switches. The 4 switch version is shown above, as are the wires in the back.

As a caveat, I highly recommend verifying that you have this wired correctly by using crimp on spade connectors wired to the panel into the electrical switch to be sure this works BEFORE cutting anything permanently.

Next Steps

1. Disconnected the electrical portion of the ignition switch - shown in #13 above
2. Igntion: Red/White are 12v. Some are switched, some are constant. You need to find a constant to power the panel. Run the constant 12v to the Brown wire on the panel. This is a 12 or 14 guage wire so if you are using crimp-on it's a blue. No opinion on best method, but gauge is important on some of the others
3. Starter - Yellow wire. Gets run to the Green wire on the panel. This a 10 gauge or so so will need larger connectors or perhaps a different approach - not an electricion so defer to others on the board
4. Ignition - this is where it gets interesting. There are 4 ignition wires that need to be connected for this to work. Connecting individually does not seem to work
   1. Black
   2. Black/Yellow
   3. Orange (heavy gauge)
   4. Orange (light Gauge) - this is a 18 gauge or smaller that provides power to the induction ring for the immobilizer. There may be better ways to power this but I just twisted it into the larger orange wire when I spliced
5. All of these need to get connected to the Yellow wire on the panel
6. Place key or pill near ring, press starter button and voila!

A couple of other items.

In this configuration, the accessory switches are powered regardless of the position of the ignition. In order the to work, they must be grounded. In the picture above, there are three black wires that come out of the white bulb holders that go up out of the picture. On mine these were pre-spliced with a ring terminal, and just need to be connected to a ground to enable the switches and lights to work.

If you want to run the switches such that the switches will only work if the ignition is on, I THINK that you need to take the Black wire that goes over the top of the started button to the ignition switch, and move it to where the yellow/red attach to the ignition switch. I will try that tomorrow.

Next steps are to pull the radio and HVAC unit and fab up a dash :-)