Maybe a bit harsh, but damn. Why? Why would someone do this? A ratchet, socket and 15 seconds and it's done properly. I didn't have time to mess with it as I had to get back to work. I'm going to my first local PCA event tomorrow and wanted to get the oil changed before, but that's not happening. I'm a bit peevish about it still...I'm thinking a cheap H. Freight hex socket that is one size bigger, hammered in then back it out. I bought a new plug and crush washer and was ready to replace it anyway. Just trying to figure out the best way to remove it. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

 

Put a chisel on the edge and tap it with a small hammer to unscrew it.

 

That is definitel aggrevating.

A couple of years ago I bought a low mileage (19K) S2000. It had no maitnenace history with it, so I was going to change all of the fluids. Oil plug was torqued so tight, it stripped the threads out of the oil pan. I had to take it to a specialist shop and have them retap the pan, and buy a slightly larger plug. I tell you this just so you're careful getting that thing out.

 

I would roll to the PCA event as is then bring it back to the shop that screwed it up later to fix it.
Or if you have a butane torch put a little heat on the oil pan around the drain plug to expand and make it easier to chisel out.

 

I just got the car 2 weeks ago. The seller (and his shop) is in Southern California (400+ miles away), so not an option. I'll do all the maintenance on it myself, so going forward this won't happen again. I'm sure I'll get it off, it just surprised me that a pro would do that, and I wasted an hour with no result in the middle of a busy day.

 

Hammer in a Torx bit.

or drill it and pull it with an ez out.

 

1) I agree with the chisel idea, it would be my first step
2) I doubt the shop used an impact gun, maybe just maybe a battery impact driver but even that I doubt. Either they just hand cranked it in there a little too much, that after market drain plug is not a great match, or maybe someone used an imperial hex size instead of metric and it started to wallow out a little. You didn't accidentally try to tighten it did you? It happens.
3) Personally, I would get a OEM drain plug as a replacement.

Just my thoughts.

 

Thanks. There wasn't enough "bite" to move the plug one way or another, the hex almost spun freely. I have OEM plug, crush washer, filter and gasket I picked up from the local Porsche dealer.

I wish I could change the title of the thread... it's more dramatic and course than necessary.

 

What's especially galling is that the plug (from a very reputable vendor) even has the torque spec, right on the part!

Not to add any aggravation, but how's the oil filter? Similarly gorilla'd?

Good luck

 

Good luck getting it off and I agree with going to an alternate plug. I had the same plug, always torqued to spec with a hex socket and it started stripping after a few years. I went to a steel plug. No excuse for the mechanic going this far, but not a fan of that plug either.

 

Didn't get that far. I saw the drain plug right away. I had a limited window and couldn't spend an unknown amount of time messing with the plug, so I stopped. I had planned on replacing the filter housing as well as the drain plug/crush washer, but the Porsche dealer didn't have any in stock.

 

I picked up the OEM plug from the local dealer. I have a torque wrench and will use it to the spec noted. I assume they use a soft plug to provide some protection against the pan threads being stripped?

 

That's my assumption. The OEM plug is pretty soft.

Note that the plug with the 26 Nm spec (19 ft-lb) is an aftermarket aluminum magnetic plug from LN engineering. Those use a lower spec to keep from deforming/cracking. The OEM drain plug spec is 50 Nm (37 ft-lb) though the hex always seems to deform a bit at that level so I usually go a bit lower. That said I never had one fail like your pic even at 37, so it's probably fine. Be sure to use a fresh crush washer and to fully seat the hex bit and you should be okay.

I had bought an LN aluminum one a while back but never installed it because I didn't like how much lower the torque spec was. It looks like they are now selling a stainless version of the plug with the same 50 Nm torque spec as stock:

https://lnengineering.com/products/m...-18-x-1-5.html

 

Forgot to say that you should be able to get that out reasonably easily with an extractor. I've got some damaged Allen extractors in the toolbox somewhere that are designed for this, but given that there's a good hole there a standard spiral extractor should work fine. Good thing it's aluminum and not hardened steel, lol.

I mean, having cursed the "d-mn PO" many a time myself, I can definitely relate to the emotion!

 

Ordered a cheap set and will give it a go sometime this week.