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How the Heck Do I Get the Front AC Expansion Valve reconnected?
So, I got the old TEV off, and I've replace the old shredded black O rings with the new cool green ones. On reassembly, I promptly dropped the TEV into the dreaded well, likely never to be seen again. I now have a new one from 928 Intl, and I'm ready to try again. This time I'll use a towel under the area to catch the TEV if I drop it again.
My problem is that when I pulled the larger pipe off the front of the TEV, it dropped down as it popped away from the TEV, and I'm struggling to get it back in place. I think someone "pre bent" it, because as soon as I pulled the front plate off, it immediately sprang down and away. At first I tried securing the TEV to the back plate and horsing the front pipe in to position, but the pipe wound up jammed under the TEV immobile.
So is there a good reconnection technique that I'm not aware of?
So, I got the old TEV off, and I've replace the old shredded black O rings with the new cool green ones. On reassembly, I promptly dropped the TEV into the dreaded well, likely never to be seen again. I now have a new one from 928 Intl, and I'm ready to try again. This time I'll use a towel under the area to catch the TEV if I drop it again.
My problem is that when I pulled the larger pipe off the front of the TEV, it dropped down as it popped away from the TEV, and I'm struggling to get it back in place. I think someone "pre bent" it, because as soon as I pulled the front plate off, it immediately sprang down and away. At first I tried securing the TEV to the back plate and horsing the front pipe in to position, but the pipe wound up jammed under the TEV immobile.
So is there a good reconnection technique that I'm not aware of?
Torifn
For the front TEV, remove the hood and may have to loosen AC pressure/suction line fasteners at the firewall in order to get some working space to fasten in a new TEV. Yes, the pressure/ suction lines are very stiff and some creative wrestling was involved to get the pipe fittings realigned with the the TEV receiving ports WITHOUT DISTORTING the line fitting’s flairs. Be patient. I’m sure my experience with this was far more aggravating than yours will be. Check Dr Bob’s suggestions in the thread below regarding front TEV access: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ion-valve.html
Getting the return line out of the way so that the expansion valve can be removed is a qute a pain but doable of course. Why they did not put a union in that line is beyond me considering there is one further along that appears to serve no purpose.
What you are experiencing is puzzling to say the least and the natural centering of that does not drop out of the way or at least not in my experience. As with most threads a photo or two of what you are experiencing invariably helps analysis of the issue.
The hood can stay on. Certainly you want to remove the line clamps holding the smaller AC line to firewall.
I have to do this for my 90S4.
1. Loosen the lines at both ends of the fuel cooler.
2. Straighten the metal tabs that hold the AC line clamps and remove the clamps.
3. Remove the expansion valve plate 5mm allen and try not to drop it or let it slide out of view - I have a magnetic probe handy.
4. Remove the 4mm allen bolts.
5. Remove the fuel cooler clamp.
6. Pull the AC lines out of the expansion valve.
7. You can now rotate the expansion valve out.
8. Disconnect the two AC lines running to the fuel cooler.
9. Replace the o rings.
10. Thread the nut on the left fuel cooler connection.
11. Slide the expansion valve into position with new o rings nearest the windshield.
12. Screw in the 2 4mm allens to draw the rear plate to the expansion valve
13. Slide the two AC lines coming to the expansion valve in the expansion valve.
14. Swing the front support plate into position and screw in the 5mm allen.
15. Thread the right side fuel cooler nut on to the fuel cooler.
16. Secure the fuel cooler to the firewall.
17. Counter hold and tighten the fuel cooler connections.
18. Secure the AC lines to the firewall.
Before Kevin's response I had bitten the bullet and removed the hood. Once I did I discovered the TEV had only fallen about 4", and I was able to fish it out with a bent wire, After that I loosened the large union, the one Fred said was "one further along that appears to serve no purpose". It's apparent purpose is to allow a PO to preload it so the end of the return will rotate away from aligning with the TEV as soon as it is released. I replaced the O ring there and left it loose while I dealt with the TEV. It went back together with only a moderate amount of reluctance. I now have cold air. I still need to replace at least two actuator diaphragms to allow the flaps to move, but I'll rest my 71 year old back for a day or two before tearing out the center console...
Before Kevin's response I had bitten the bullet and removed the hood. Once I did I discovered the TEV had only fallen about 4", and I was able to fish it out with a bent wire, After that I loosened the large union, the one Fred said was "one further along that appears to serve no purpose". It's apparent purpose is to allow a PO to preload it so the end of the return will rotate away from aligning with the TEV as soon as it is released. I replaced the O ring there and left it loose while I dealt with the TEV. It went back together with only a moderate amount of reluctance. I now have cold air. I still need to replace at least two actuator diaphragms to allow the flaps to move, but I'll rest my 71 year old back for a day or two before tearing out the center console...
Torfin
Well done! I certainly undid that connection on my system but it did not seem to make any difference . Cannot remember what exactly I did but it was a sod of a job.
The hood can stay on. Certainly you want to remove the line clamps holding the smaller AC line to firewall.
I have to do this for my 90S4.
1. Loosen the lines at both ends of the fuel cooler.
2. Straighten the metal tabs that hold the AC line clamps and remove the clamps.
3. Remove the expansion valve plate 5mm allen and try not to drop it or let it slide out of view - I have a magnetic probe handy.
4. Remove the 4mm allen bolts.
5. Remove the fuel cooler clamp.
6. Pull the AC lines out of the expansion valve.
7. You can now rotate the expansion valve out.
8. Disconnect the two AC lines running to the fuel cooler.
9. Replace the o rings.
10. Thread the nut on the left fuel cooler connection.
11. Slide the expansion valve into position with new o rings nearest the windshield.
12. Screw in the 2 4mm allens to draw the rear plate to the expansion valve
13. Slide the two AC lines coming to the expansion valve in the expansion valve.
14. Swing the front support plate into position and screw in the 5mm allen.
15. Thread the right side fuel cooler nut on to the fuel cooler.
16. Secure the fuel cooler to the firewall.
17. Counter hold and tighten the fuel cooler connections.
18. Secure the AC lines to the firewall.
I think I got it all.
thanks Kevin. I had to use special tools to remove the old TEV. Some of the old hex head bolts stripped and tools like grinders had to be used.
I also use that same setup picture to above for loosening and tightening camshaft cover bolts especially the ones near the back of the engine. And also for my late model cars with airbags.
06-30-2024, 10:24 AM
How the Heck Do I Get the Front AC Expansion Valve reconnected?
