981 PDK Service - Do it (yourself)
01-28-2020, 10:28 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
981 PDK Service - Do it (yourself)
ADVANCE DISCLAIMER: It is always best to have a P-tech service your PDK following Porsche's prescribed methods. But, if you are hands on, read on....
I did a lot of searching and researching on the topic of PDK Service, both to determine what is really needed, and to determine if it can be a DIY task. I track my car, and tend to error on the side of over-maintaining the car out of an abundance of caution. I decided to change my PDK fluids early since the support teams maintaining race-ready GT4 Clubsports with essentially the same PDK transmissions as ours, are changing their PDK fluids at much earlier intervals, and much more often. My car is a 2014 Cayman S and has 23,000 miles, and only 3 track weekends. Here is what I discovered:
- the fluids are much dirtier than I expected with so few miles.
- it is easier to do than you think, particularly if you do not change the pan each time.
- having a PIWIS system is not (necessarily) required.
- only a portion of the fluids drain out, so wise to change it twice.
I discovered that even master Porsche technicians have little experience with 981 PDK fluid changes as of yet, as only a few cars have reached the recommended service intervals.
Jeff Richardson's youtube video below shows that it is not necessarily required to use the Porsche PIWIS software system IF YOU ARE JUST DRAINING AND REFILLING. But, please, before you throw stones, I completely understand if you feel it is best to have your P-tech do the fluid and filter change with PIWIS. But, from my research, it really makes no difference. And, on my scale of deciding what is best for the car, I decided it is better to have new, clean oil in the PDK and differential, then waiting 120,000 miles to have your P-tech do it to the prescribed procedure.
Jeff makes the case that he has done it with and without PIWIS, and the results are the same - the same amount of fluid goes in either way. I checked my fill level after running the car for a day after the change and verified - both sections were completely full without using the PIWIS system. If you are more comfortable having it done by a P-tech, by all means let them do it - but don't wait, the oil is gets dirty and would benefit from having it changed in my opinion. And, I recommend you do it early two times, because a liter or two of the old fluid remains even after the change. The fluids and drain plugs are not that expensive and it does not take much longer than changing your oil. My first DIY change was fluids only, next time I will also change the pan which has the brillo pad like filter it in.
Basically, you are pulling out 3 drain plugs and 2 fill plugs, draining and filling the clutch section and the gear/diff section. It is not rocket science and not difficult. Replaced each plug as recommended by Porsche. I made of list of the parts, tools, and torque settings needed. Use the links to see what is done and how to do it.
There are ways to screw up so here are my warnings;
- do not strip the plugs when removing them. Make sure your tool is firmly embedded in the plug before loosening.
- do not cross-thread installing the new plugs. Start them by hand.
- be sure to completely fill the new fluid. The fluid should be pouring out of the fill hole a steam the the width of a pencil. To top off the gear oil, it needs to be put in idle to allowed to wheel to rotate for a few minutes to get the maximum oil in the fill.
- make sure you put in at least as much as you take out.
Parts Needed:
(2) Fill Plugs
(1) Gear Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(1) Clutch Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(1) Differential Gear Oil drain, 9A7-008-526-00
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain, part No 9G1-321-825-02
Gear Oil - (3) Liters Mobillube PTX 75W-90, 000, get 1 extra (note; the PTX version is the oil specified by Porsche)
Clutch Oil – (4) Liters Porsche Pentosin FFL PDK fluid, 000-043-305-12, get 1 extra
And if changing the oil pan/filter ….
Pan with gasket and integrated filter – part # 9G1-321-025-00
(13) bolts with pan kit.
Torque Settings:
Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill - torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
(1) Clutch Oil fill - torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain, torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
(1) Differential gear oil drain, torque to 10nm / 7.5 ft lb
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain, torque to 15 nm / 11 ft. lb
Pan parameter bolts (if changed), torque to 2.7 nm / 24 INCHES
Location of plugs:
(2) Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill – on right side.
(1) Clutch Oil fill - left side, near cooling pipes
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain – center, behind the pan
(1) Differential gear drain - on right side, near pan corner
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain - in pan, accessed thru round hole in underbody plate
Tools Needed:
(2) Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill – 8mm Hex socket, with extension
(1) Clutch Oil fill – 8mm Hex socket, with extension
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain – 8 mm Hex socket, with extension
(1) Differential gear drain – 5mm Hex socket
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain - in pan – Torx 30 socket
Oil filler - such as the oil extractor, plus.
Tape to protect oil pan gasket when filling.
Torque wrenches to fit above hex and torx sockets.
Link to Youtube video:
Link to excellent write up at other forum: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/diy.../#post-2113303
Link to aftermarket pan installation by LN Engineering: https://lnengineering.com/files/2019...ion-Manual.pdf - they recommend every 30,000 - 40,000 mile change.
I did a lot of searching and researching on the topic of PDK Service, both to determine what is really needed, and to determine if it can be a DIY task. I track my car, and tend to error on the side of over-maintaining the car out of an abundance of caution. I decided to change my PDK fluids early since the support teams maintaining race-ready GT4 Clubsports with essentially the same PDK transmissions as ours, are changing their PDK fluids at much earlier intervals, and much more often. My car is a 2014 Cayman S and has 23,000 miles, and only 3 track weekends. Here is what I discovered:
- the fluids are much dirtier than I expected with so few miles.
- it is easier to do than you think, particularly if you do not change the pan each time.
- having a PIWIS system is not (necessarily) required.
- only a portion of the fluids drain out, so wise to change it twice.
I discovered that even master Porsche technicians have little experience with 981 PDK fluid changes as of yet, as only a few cars have reached the recommended service intervals.
Jeff Richardson's youtube video below shows that it is not necessarily required to use the Porsche PIWIS software system IF YOU ARE JUST DRAINING AND REFILLING. But, please, before you throw stones, I completely understand if you feel it is best to have your P-tech do the fluid and filter change with PIWIS. But, from my research, it really makes no difference. And, on my scale of deciding what is best for the car, I decided it is better to have new, clean oil in the PDK and differential, then waiting 120,000 miles to have your P-tech do it to the prescribed procedure.
Jeff makes the case that he has done it with and without PIWIS, and the results are the same - the same amount of fluid goes in either way. I checked my fill level after running the car for a day after the change and verified - both sections were completely full without using the PIWIS system. If you are more comfortable having it done by a P-tech, by all means let them do it - but don't wait, the oil is gets dirty and would benefit from having it changed in my opinion. And, I recommend you do it early two times, because a liter or two of the old fluid remains even after the change. The fluids and drain plugs are not that expensive and it does not take much longer than changing your oil. My first DIY change was fluids only, next time I will also change the pan which has the brillo pad like filter it in.
Basically, you are pulling out 3 drain plugs and 2 fill plugs, draining and filling the clutch section and the gear/diff section. It is not rocket science and not difficult. Replaced each plug as recommended by Porsche. I made of list of the parts, tools, and torque settings needed. Use the links to see what is done and how to do it.
There are ways to screw up so here are my warnings;
- do not strip the plugs when removing them. Make sure your tool is firmly embedded in the plug before loosening.
- do not cross-thread installing the new plugs. Start them by hand.
- be sure to completely fill the new fluid. The fluid should be pouring out of the fill hole a steam the the width of a pencil. To top off the gear oil, it needs to be put in idle to allowed to wheel to rotate for a few minutes to get the maximum oil in the fill.
- make sure you put in at least as much as you take out.
Parts Needed:
(2) Fill Plugs
(1) Gear Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(1) Clutch Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(1) Differential Gear Oil drain, 9A7-008-526-00
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain, part No 9G1-321-825-02
Gear Oil - (3) Liters Mobillube PTX 75W-90, 000, get 1 extra (note; the PTX version is the oil specified by Porsche)
Clutch Oil – (4) Liters Porsche Pentosin FFL PDK fluid, 000-043-305-12, get 1 extra
And if changing the oil pan/filter ….
Pan with gasket and integrated filter – part # 9G1-321-025-00
(13) bolts with pan kit.
Torque Settings:
Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill - torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
(1) Clutch Oil fill - torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain, torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
(1) Differential gear oil drain, torque to 10nm / 7.5 ft lb
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain, torque to 15 nm / 11 ft. lb
Pan parameter bolts (if changed), torque to 2.7 nm / 24 INCHES
Location of plugs:
(2) Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill – on right side.
(1) Clutch Oil fill - left side, near cooling pipes
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain – center, behind the pan
(1) Differential gear drain - on right side, near pan corner
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain - in pan, accessed thru round hole in underbody plate
Tools Needed:
(2) Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill – 8mm Hex socket, with extension
(1) Clutch Oil fill – 8mm Hex socket, with extension
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain – 8 mm Hex socket, with extension
(1) Differential gear drain – 5mm Hex socket
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain - in pan – Torx 30 socket
Oil filler - such as the oil extractor, plus.
Tape to protect oil pan gasket when filling.
Torque wrenches to fit above hex and torx sockets.
Link to Youtube video:
Link to excellent write up at other forum: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/diy.../#post-2113303
Link to aftermarket pan installation by LN Engineering: https://lnengineering.com/files/2019...ion-Manual.pdf - they recommend every 30,000 - 40,000 mile change.
Last edited by matttheboatman; 01-28-2020 at 10:36 PM. Reason: grammer
The following 10 users liked this post by matttheboatman:
CaymanCarver (01-29-2020),
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Motoring Ed (05-16-2023),
and 5 others liked this post.
01-29-2020, 09:27 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Excellent! Thank you for the great write up and comprehensive outline. Good job!
01-29-2020, 09:55 AM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Excellent!
Thanks.
40,000 miles and 6 track days
I used my wifes favorite measuring cup.
Labeled every drain and fill plug with Blue painters tape.
Triple check everything.
Put in EXACTLY the same amount of fluid that came out.
This was 10,000 miles ago. Car runs excellent.
Thanks.
40,000 miles and 6 track days
I used my wifes favorite measuring cup.
Labeled every drain and fill plug with Blue painters tape.
Triple check everything.
Put in EXACTLY the same amount of fluid that came out.
This was 10,000 miles ago. Car runs excellent.
The following 3 users liked this post by KBell:
01-29-2020, 05:50 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Other tips. Remove fill plugs BEFORE drain plugs to make sure you don't run into problems after fluid is drained.
You can buy Pentosin FFL-3 fluid for about $28/L online as opposed to $40/L for Porsche labeled bottle
You can buy Pentosin FFL-3 fluid for about $28/L online as opposed to $40/L for Porsche labeled bottle
The following users liked this post:
matttheboatman (01-30-2020)
12-27-2022, 10:54 AM
#5
ADVANCE DISCLAIMER: It is always best to have a P-tech service your PDK following Porsche's prescribed methods. But, if you are hands on, read on....
I did a lot of searching and researching on the topic of PDK Service, both to determine what is really needed, and to determine if it can be a DIY task. I track my car, and tend to error on the side of over-maintaining the car out of an abundance of caution. I decided to change my PDK fluids early since the support teams maintaining race-ready GT4 Clubsports with essentially the same PDK transmissions as ours, are changing their PDK fluids at much earlier intervals, and much more often. My car is a 2014 Cayman S and has 23,000 miles, and only 3 track weekends. Here is what I discovered:
- the fluids are much dirtier than I expected with so few miles.
- it is easier to do than you think, particularly if you do not change the pan each time.
- having a PIWIS system is not (necessarily) required.
- only a portion of the fluids drain out, so wise to change it twice.
I discovered that even master Porsche technicians have little experience with 981 PDK fluid changes as of yet, as only a few cars have reached the recommended service intervals.
Jeff Richardson's youtube video below shows that it is not necessarily required to use the Porsche PIWIS software system IF YOU ARE JUST DRAINING AND REFILLING. But, please, before you throw stones, I completely understand if you feel it is best to have your P-tech do the fluid and filter change with PIWIS. But, from my research, it really makes no difference. And, on my scale of deciding what is best for the car, I decided it is better to have new, clean oil in the PDK and differential, then waiting 120,000 miles to have your P-tech do it to the prescribed procedure.
Jeff makes the case that he has done it with and without PIWIS, and the results are the same - the same amount of fluid goes in either way. I checked my fill level after running the car for a day after the change and verified - both sections were completely full without using the PIWIS system. If you are more comfortable having it done by a P-tech, by all means let them do it - but don't wait, the oil is gets dirty and would benefit from having it changed in my opinion. And, I recommend you do it early two times, because a liter or two of the old fluid remains even after the change. The fluids and drain plugs are not that expensive and it does not take much longer than changing your oil. My first DIY change was fluids only, next time I will also change the pan which has the brillo pad like filter it in.
Basically, you are pulling out 3 drain plugs and 2 fill plugs, draining and filling the clutch section and the gear/diff section. It is not rocket science and not difficult. Replaced each plug as recommended by Porsche. I made of list of the parts, tools, and torque settings needed. Use the links to see what is done and how to do it.
There are ways to screw up so here are my warnings;
- do not strip the plugs when removing them. Make sure your tool is firmly embedded in the plug before loosening.
- do not cross-thread installing the new plugs. Start them by hand.
- be sure to completely fill the new fluid. The fluid should be pouring out of the fill hole a steam the the width of a pencil. To top off the gear oil, it needs to be put in idle to allowed to wheel to rotate for a few minutes to get the maximum oil in the fill.
- make sure you put in at least as much as you take out.
Parts Needed:
(2) Fill Plugs
(1) Gear Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(1) Clutch Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(1) Differential Gear Oil drain, 9A7-008-526-00
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain, part No 9G1-321-825-02
Gear Oil - (3) Liters Mobillube PTX 75W-90, 000, get 1 extra (note; the PTX version is the oil specified by Porsche)
Clutch Oil – (4) Liters Porsche Pentosin FFL PDK fluid, 000-043-305-12, get 1 extra
And if changing the oil pan/filter ….
Pan with gasket and integrated filter – part # 9G1-321-025-00
(13) bolts with pan kit.
Torque Settings:
Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill - torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
(1) Clutch Oil fill - torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain, torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
(1) Differential gear oil drain, torque to 10nm / 7.5 ft lb
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain, torque to 15 nm / 11 ft. lb
Pan parameter bolts (if changed), torque to 2.7 nm / 24 INCHES
Location of plugs:
(2) Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill – on right side.
(1) Clutch Oil fill - left side, near cooling pipes
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain – center, behind the pan
(1) Differential gear drain - on right side, near pan corner
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain - in pan, accessed thru round hole in underbody plate
Tools Needed:
(2) Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill – 8mm Hex socket, with extension
(1) Clutch Oil fill – 8mm Hex socket, with extension
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain – 8 mm Hex socket, with extension
(1) Differential gear drain – 5mm Hex socket
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain - in pan – Torx 30 socket
Oil filler - such as the MityVac 7201 oil extractor, plus.
Tape to protect oil pan gasket when filling.
Torque wrenches to fit above hex and torx sockets.
Link to Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8Y2Tfibgyg
Link to excellent write up at other forum: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/diy.../#post-2113303
Link to aftermarket pan installation by LN Engineering: https://lnengineering.com/files/2019...ion-Manual.pdf - they recommend every 30,000 - 40,000 mile change.
I did a lot of searching and researching on the topic of PDK Service, both to determine what is really needed, and to determine if it can be a DIY task. I track my car, and tend to error on the side of over-maintaining the car out of an abundance of caution. I decided to change my PDK fluids early since the support teams maintaining race-ready GT4 Clubsports with essentially the same PDK transmissions as ours, are changing their PDK fluids at much earlier intervals, and much more often. My car is a 2014 Cayman S and has 23,000 miles, and only 3 track weekends. Here is what I discovered:
- the fluids are much dirtier than I expected with so few miles.
- it is easier to do than you think, particularly if you do not change the pan each time.
- having a PIWIS system is not (necessarily) required.
- only a portion of the fluids drain out, so wise to change it twice.
I discovered that even master Porsche technicians have little experience with 981 PDK fluid changes as of yet, as only a few cars have reached the recommended service intervals.
Jeff Richardson's youtube video below shows that it is not necessarily required to use the Porsche PIWIS software system IF YOU ARE JUST DRAINING AND REFILLING. But, please, before you throw stones, I completely understand if you feel it is best to have your P-tech do the fluid and filter change with PIWIS. But, from my research, it really makes no difference. And, on my scale of deciding what is best for the car, I decided it is better to have new, clean oil in the PDK and differential, then waiting 120,000 miles to have your P-tech do it to the prescribed procedure.
Jeff makes the case that he has done it with and without PIWIS, and the results are the same - the same amount of fluid goes in either way. I checked my fill level after running the car for a day after the change and verified - both sections were completely full without using the PIWIS system. If you are more comfortable having it done by a P-tech, by all means let them do it - but don't wait, the oil is gets dirty and would benefit from having it changed in my opinion. And, I recommend you do it early two times, because a liter or two of the old fluid remains even after the change. The fluids and drain plugs are not that expensive and it does not take much longer than changing your oil. My first DIY change was fluids only, next time I will also change the pan which has the brillo pad like filter it in.
Basically, you are pulling out 3 drain plugs and 2 fill plugs, draining and filling the clutch section and the gear/diff section. It is not rocket science and not difficult. Replaced each plug as recommended by Porsche. I made of list of the parts, tools, and torque settings needed. Use the links to see what is done and how to do it.
There are ways to screw up so here are my warnings;
- do not strip the plugs when removing them. Make sure your tool is firmly embedded in the plug before loosening.
- do not cross-thread installing the new plugs. Start them by hand.
- be sure to completely fill the new fluid. The fluid should be pouring out of the fill hole a steam the the width of a pencil. To top off the gear oil, it needs to be put in idle to allowed to wheel to rotate for a few minutes to get the maximum oil in the fill.
- make sure you put in at least as much as you take out.
Parts Needed:
(2) Fill Plugs
(1) Gear Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(1) Clutch Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil M18 x 1.5, part No. 97032180500
(1) Differential Gear Oil drain, 9A7-008-526-00
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain, part No 9G1-321-825-02
Gear Oil - (3) Liters Mobillube PTX 75W-90, 000, get 1 extra (note; the PTX version is the oil specified by Porsche)
Clutch Oil – (4) Liters Porsche Pentosin FFL PDK fluid, 000-043-305-12, get 1 extra
And if changing the oil pan/filter ….
Pan with gasket and integrated filter – part # 9G1-321-025-00
(13) bolts with pan kit.
Torque Settings:
Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill - torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
(1) Clutch Oil fill - torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain, torque to 27 nm / 20 ft lb
(1) Differential gear oil drain, torque to 10nm / 7.5 ft lb
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain, torque to 15 nm / 11 ft. lb
Pan parameter bolts (if changed), torque to 2.7 nm / 24 INCHES
Location of plugs:
(2) Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill – on right side.
(1) Clutch Oil fill - left side, near cooling pipes
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain – center, behind the pan
(1) Differential gear drain - on right side, near pan corner
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain - in pan, accessed thru round hole in underbody plate
Tools Needed:
(2) Fill Plugs;
(1) Gear Oil fill – 8mm Hex socket, with extension
(1) Clutch Oil fill – 8mm Hex socket, with extension
(3) Drain Plugs
(1) Gear Oil drain – 8 mm Hex socket, with extension
(1) Differential gear drain – 5mm Hex socket
(1) Clutch Oil Pan drain - in pan – Torx 30 socket
Oil filler - such as the MityVac 7201 oil extractor, plus.
Tape to protect oil pan gasket when filling.
Torque wrenches to fit above hex and torx sockets.
Link to Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8Y2Tfibgyg
Link to excellent write up at other forum: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/diy.../#post-2113303
Link to aftermarket pan installation by LN Engineering: https://lnengineering.com/files/2019...ion-Manual.pdf - they recommend every 30,000 - 40,000 mile change.
12-27-2022, 12:12 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
When filling with PIWIS you can hear it cycling the gears. It is my understanding this is also a PDK recalibration. I track a 2013 BS and had the fluids changed by an indy with PIWIS last year with 38K miles. After the change the gear shifts were smoother, even Sport+ on track. You have to put the car in drive and let the wheel turn to pump diff fluid into the diff cooler.
12-28-2022, 10:49 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Here's another write up on planet 9. I ordered parts and will be following this guide soon for my Cayman S.
https://www.planet-9.com/threads/diy...l-mode.237865/
https://www.planet-9.com/threads/diy...l-mode.237865/
Trending Topics
02-10-2023, 10:34 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Has anyone used any of the non-Pentosin FFL3 PDK Clutch Oils that are now available? If yes, can you recommend or not?
Fuchs FFL 3 ( Fuchs purchased Pentosin in 2015, claims this is the same product as Pentosin FFL 3 )
Motul DCT Fluid
Liqui Moly Dual Clutch Oil
Febi Bilstein Dual Clutch Fluid
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Fuchs FFL 3 ( Fuchs purchased Pentosin in 2015, claims this is the same product as Pentosin FFL 3 )
Motul DCT Fluid
Liqui Moly Dual Clutch Oil
Febi Bilstein Dual Clutch Fluid
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Last edited by 981KMAN; 02-11-2023 at 08:28 PM.
02-11-2023, 05:37 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I'd sooner "do my own research" on COVID pills.
02-11-2023, 05:59 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
02-11-2023, 06:11 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Why ask for trouble by using nonstandard fluids in the PDK, of all things? It's known that the OEM fluids work well and don't cause problems.
Last edited by Noah Fect; 02-11-2023 at 06:13 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Sajan (02-12-2023)
02-11-2023, 07:52 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
If you have not used any of the alternative PDK Oils, then you really have nothing substantive to add to the discussion. Thanks for your opinion, yet I was asking for actual experience from fellow PDK owners who do their own maintenance.
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mikescayenne (05-15-2023)
02-12-2023, 08:41 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
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OK, I do not believe I am "asking for trouble" as you say. There are lots of equivalent lubricants that are just as good, maybe even better when considering all aspects.
If you have not used any of the alternative PDK Oils, then you really have nothing substantive to add to the discussion. Thanks for your opinion, yet I was asking for actual experience from fellow PDK owners who do their own maintenance.
If you have not used any of the alternative PDK Oils, then you really have nothing substantive to add to the discussion. Thanks for your opinion, yet I was asking for actual experience from fellow PDK owners who do their own maintenance.
The following users liked this post:
ElCid86 (02-15-2023)
02-13-2023, 12:23 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
I have oil analysis for virgin Porsche gearbox oil (not clutch side, the gear side) and oil analysis data from used Porsche gearbox oil. The Mobil 1 OEM Porsche gear side oil shears down to an alarming level after 25k miles. By shear down, I mean it no longer tests to its specified hot temperature viscosity, it is much thinner than spec. There are excellent aftermarket alternatives. LN Engineering can recommend better oils for clutch side and gear side of the PDK than the OEM oils. And LN Engineering has lots of racing experience and objective data to back up their recommendations.
02-13-2023, 03:17 PM
#15
