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Doubted my sanity after removing the coolant overflow / tank. Was encouraged to press on so I did.
Removed the mangled windshield wiper filler neck.
Also found this - clearly not a factory cap on this metal tube. Can someone take me to school on what this is for / connected to? Looked at PET and it didn't jump out at me.
I tried searching for this before asking, but I am thinking I should test the new-old EFI harness before putting it. Should I do some continuity testing before installing it?
I tried searching for this before asking, but I am thinking I should test the new-old EFI harness before putting it. Should I do some continuity testing before installing it?
Thanks!
I ended up just cleaning the connections and make sure the grounds were good.
Interestingly the grounds on this harness, sourced from our friends in Anaheim, had different ground connectors than the one I removed.
Connected everything and she stumbled to life. Double checked all of the connections to the plugs etc and grounds and then she fired up and idled. Good news, right? Sort of....
She is pretty rough and sounds/feels like she is running on less than all 8 cylinders.She is not at all happy about running up RPMs and obviously I am not going to jump on her until this is sorted.
Need to check to make sure I have an ignition pulse on all of the cylinders but pretty sure I do.... Any ideas before I start pulling things off to do a compression test?
She'll start and then die, and don't think it is ignition related since it is getting worse and nothing has changed in the ignition system since she started and idled. Spark plugs look OK, tough lean maybe, except for one that has some gunk on it. I think I am back to having fuel issues.
If it has been left that long replace the fuel damper, the FPRs, and have the injectors serviced.
Hi - thanks for the response. Fuel injectors are new, so that is one variable removed at least. Fuel at the rail is clean, so I think the immediate issue is that the fuel filter is likely clogged. Drained the tank (again) as well and what came out wasn't as clean as it should be.
Will get the damper and FRPs replaced.
EDIT - can you service the damper and FRPs are are they strictly replacement items?
Sigh - replaced the fuel filter but didn't change anything else, and yep, won't run. It starts on the cold start system but won't run. No pulse with Noid light, only have 11.88 volts are the injectors.
Check the ECU connector and 11.88 volts at 10 and 29.
Battery has 12.13v at the terminals. Passenger side engine bay hot point (for jump) has the same 12.13v
One thing to note - which may/may not be related: when turn the ignition switch the flashing warning buzzer and chimes are muffled and then get stronger, sometimes we whe I fiddle with this ignition switch times on their own after a couple seconds.
Any coaching on where to look for the voltage drop?
Update - thinking about this more made me realize the battery should be closer to 12.7, and that it is low due to leaving the doors open and one of the door lights being on a long time. Battery was fully charged when it last ran.
I have a charger on it anyway, but still concerned that there is enough voltage drop to render the car a paperweight.
EDIT - could someone please confirm that power goes
Battery - starter - alternator - CE panel?
Battery connection is good, and I have 12v at the terminal front passenger side (where the jump spot is), so that means it is likely a drop to/from alternator and CE panel?
A .25v drop from battery to CE panel does not seem too excessive to me. If the starter turns over the engine well then the necessary systems to run the engine should have enough power. How is the engine wiring harness? All the connections have been cleaned at the alt and starter?
I was left stranded with an odd problem at last years Frenzy that you could easily check. Remove the distributor cap and check that the reluctor wheel does not spin freely. There is a roll pin to fasten it to the distributor shaft that came out in my case.
A .25v drop from battery to CE panel does not seem too excessive to me. If the starter turns over the engine well then the necessary systems to run the engine should have enough power. How is the engine wiring harness? All the connections have been cleaned at the alt and starter?
I was left stranded with an odd problem at last years Frenzy that you could easily check. Remove the distributor cap and check that the reluctor wheel does not spin freely. There is a roll pin to fasten it to the distributor shaft that came out in my case.
Thanks for the response - appreciate the help.
Starter - yes.
Alternator- no. Will do that and report back.
Does the + power flow go : Battery - starter - alternator - CE panel?
08-22-2017, 08:30 PM
