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I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
Same link - Porsche/VW bolt layout: Unscrew the bolts about a quarter of an inch. Then, while holding the beam, tap lightly on the screw heads with a non-marring hammer until the alignment sleeve is clear of opposite face.
There's no reason your plastigauge has to be on the cap side, especially if you are checking with the crank and rods out of the block.
I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
You're using those hollowed out, triangulated beam rods are or those on the site experimental....?
You're using those hollowed out, triangulated beam rods are or those on the site experimental....?
What's the weight per rod...?
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No I got classic H beam like these http://www.droste-ing.de/galerie.php , weight per rod is 601.5 grams and are all balanced to 0.3g. Stock turbo rods without bolts are ~740g.
Triangular designed rods are patented and when I got mine I think they only made those for bikes.
I have already glued griddle together so now I have to measure it inside of block.