944 conrod side clearance
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
944 conrod side clearance
Anybody know what should side clearance (rod to crank) on 944 engines be? I have ~0.20mm and don't find this information anywhere.
I did find information that crank pin width is 29.13mm and rod width is 29.00mm, so that means clearance should be 0.13?
EDIT: found it in workshop manual, Is this the correct value?
I did find information that crank pin width is 29.13mm and rod width is 29.00mm, so that means clearance should be 0.13?
EDIT: found it in workshop manual, Is this the correct value?
Last edited by Voith; 06-05-2017 at 09:34 AM.
#2
Race Car
Well, the rods are 29.0.
What rods....?
Pauter Rods recommends .010-.012" with minimum of .08".
That converts to .25-.30mm, .20mm minimum.
http://pauter.com/parts/technical/faq/rods/
T
What rods....?
Pauter Rods recommends .010-.012" with minimum of .08".
That converts to .25-.30mm, .20mm minimum.
http://pauter.com/parts/technical/faq/rods/
T
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rods are these http://www.droste-ing.de
I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
#5
Race Car
Rods are these http://www.droste-ing.de
I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
There's no reason your plastigauge has to be on the cap side, especially if you are checking with the crank and rods out of the block.
T
#6
Race Car
Rods are these http://www.droste-ing.de
I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
I can squeeze 0.25mm in but its very tight.. So this should be about right.
Another thing, when I plastigage rod bearings, I have to tap rod bolts quite a bit to get the cap off, is there a way to get them off without tapping since I think i squash plastigage more with tapping..
You're using those hollowed out, triangulated beam rods are or those on the site experimental....?
What's the weight per rod...?
T
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Triangular designed rods are patented and when I got mine I think they only made those for bikes.
I have already glued griddle together so now I have to measure it inside of block.
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter