Problematic Manual Transmission Fill Plug...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Problematic Manual Transmission Fill Plug...
Hello,
I wanted to change my fluid and try to get another few miles of potential driving out of this transmission... ( I have a rebuilt trans from Josh waiting in the wings...)
I've tried heat, PB Blaster, as well as my Makita impact driver to no avail.
I'm reluctant to grab the breaker bar and start cranking on this due to the very "used" appearance of the fill plug itself.
Any thoughts on removing the fill plug? Thanks for your time.
I wanted to change my fluid and try to get another few miles of potential driving out of this transmission... ( I have a rebuilt trans from Josh waiting in the wings...)
I've tried heat, PB Blaster, as well as my Makita impact driver to no avail.
I'm reluctant to grab the breaker bar and start cranking on this due to the very "used" appearance of the fill plug itself.
Any thoughts on removing the fill plug? Thanks for your time.
Last edited by Daniel5691; 05-14-2017 at 10:33 AM.
#2
Former Sponsor
18 ft. lbs, right?
Heat the aluminum around the plug (this will take some time, as the cover "absorbs" heat like crazy.)
Use your 1/2" air impact with the appropriate, 1/2 to 3/8" adapter, along with your 17mm 3/8" allen socket.
Should jump right out.
Heat the aluminum around the plug (this will take some time, as the cover "absorbs" heat like crazy.)
Use your 1/2" air impact with the appropriate, 1/2 to 3/8" adapter, along with your 17mm 3/8" allen socket.
Should jump right out.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thank you for helping !
The use of heat on the cover brings another question to mind, is it ever reasonable/logical/useful to "heat" one part and "cool" the other? For instance, heating the snot out of the cover, and then hitting the plug itself with some ice (or even a blast of liquid nitrogen from a can of compressed air)? ?
Just a thought before I head out to replenish my supply of MAPP gas .....
Dan
The use of heat on the cover brings another question to mind, is it ever reasonable/logical/useful to "heat" one part and "cool" the other? For instance, heating the snot out of the cover, and then hitting the plug itself with some ice (or even a blast of liquid nitrogen from a can of compressed air)? ?
Just a thought before I head out to replenish my supply of MAPP gas .....
Dan
#4
Former Sponsor
Thank you for helping !
The use of heat on the cover brings another question to mind, is it ever reasonable/logical/useful to "heat" one part and "cool" the other? For instance, heating the snot out of the cover, and then hitting the plug itself with some ice (or even a blast of liquid nitrogen from a can of compressed air)? ?
Just a thought before I head out to replenish my supply of MAPP gas .....
Dan
The use of heat on the cover brings another question to mind, is it ever reasonable/logical/useful to "heat" one part and "cool" the other? For instance, heating the snot out of the cover, and then hitting the plug itself with some ice (or even a blast of liquid nitrogen from a can of compressed air)? ?
Just a thought before I head out to replenish my supply of MAPP gas .....
Dan
#5
Rennlist Member
I use a can of electronics freeze spray for stubborn fasteners. When I had the same issue as you on my 82, I used the freeze spray on the plug, and then got straight onto it with an impact gun, and it almost fell out. I had the MAPP gas ready for the double whammy, but in that case I didn't need it.
#6
Drifting
I would not be nervous about using a breaker bar and good quality, well-seated Allen socket.
If worst happens and it rounds, it looks as if you still have room around it to use Irwin bolt gripper, or you could just hammer in an oversized torx socket.
If worst happens and it rounds, it looks as if you still have room around it to use Irwin bolt gripper, or you could just hammer in an oversized torx socket.
#7
Team Owner
if the gun wont work then use a breaker bar,
put some wood behind the bar to hold it in the plug , you may need a helper.
IE even if the socket fits loose it cant push out because the tool cant back out
if possible use some valve grinding paste on the allen this will give the tool bite.
put some wood behind the bar to hold it in the plug , you may need a helper.
IE even if the socket fits loose it cant push out because the tool cant back out
if possible use some valve grinding paste on the allen this will give the tool bite.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So, no joy last night with the heat...
I suspect that the "weakest link" of my removal attempt is going to be the damaged nature of the plug hex faces. Lots of great hints here, I'm ready to give it another assault.
Thanks !
I suspect that the "weakest link" of my removal attempt is going to be the damaged nature of the plug hex faces. Lots of great hints here, I'm ready to give it another assault.
Thanks !
#9
Nordschleife Master
I have a set of those bolt-grips above. I've had to employ them a few times for PO killed Allen bolts. They work. Fit one on tight- even hammer it on. The oblique counter grip threading makes these work.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ordered the set tonight.
I defy rust and the very passage of time itself!!
I defy rust and the very passage of time itself!!
#12
Former Sponsor
Done this many times.