More Castor and need help aligning lowered rear 951
#1
More Castor and need help aligning lowered rear 951
Ok I'm at 1.9 degrees castor and definitely need more, I'm looking for around 7 degrees.. I've searched and came up with nothing. What can I do?
Also is there a way to shim the rear trailing arm adjustments to reduce camber and toe in the rear of the car?
The car is lowered but I am trying to get the rear as close to zero camber and toe as possible.
Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks,
-Austin
Also is there a way to shim the rear trailing arm adjustments to reduce camber and toe in the rear of the car?
The car is lowered but I am trying to get the rear as close to zero camber and toe as possible.
Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks,
-Austin
#2
Rennlist Member
First off, may I ask what you're trying to do that you want 7 degrees caster, but no rear camber/toe? That's a very odd sounding setup to me.
Second, I know of no way to shim the rear spring plates to get less camber (or more, for that matter). However, getting zero toe shouldn't be an issue.
Third, as you probably now know, lowering the car increases the rear camber.
Fourth, to increase the caster, you could always cut out the rear control arm mounts and weld new mounting points further outboard. But, then you'd probably have binding up in the cross member (unless you went with an aftermarket control arm that has a monoball there).
Second, I know of no way to shim the rear spring plates to get less camber (or more, for that matter). However, getting zero toe shouldn't be an issue.
Third, as you probably now know, lowering the car increases the rear camber.
Fourth, to increase the caster, you could always cut out the rear control arm mounts and weld new mounting points further outboard. But, then you'd probably have binding up in the cross member (unless you went with an aftermarket control arm that has a monoball there).
#3
Rennlist Member
OP, you should be able to get 4-5 degrees of caster on a stock suspension. Mine is sitting at 4.5 as that's the highest I could go while keeping both sides equal.
I haven't tried it, but my camber plates (Ground Control under-mount plates) are slotted in such a way that would let you adjust the location of the upper strut mount rearward, which would give you more positive caster as well. I imagine you might be able to squeeze another .5-1 degree out that way, I dunno about getting as high as 7.
Why 7 in particular?
As far as rear camber goes, I have done a couple alignments on a lowered 944 and I really don't think you'll be able to get close to zero with the factory adjustment.
#4
First off, may I ask what you're trying to do that you want 7 degrees caster, but no rear camber/toe? That's a very odd sounding setup to me.
Second, I know of no way to shim the rear spring plates to get less camber (or more, for that matter). However, getting zero toe shouldn't be an issue.
Third, as you probably now know, lowering the car increases the rear camber.
Fourth, to increase the caster, you could always cut out the rear control arm mounts and weld new mounting points further outboard. But, then you'd probably have binding up in the cross member (unless you went with an aftermarket control arm that has a monoball there).
Second, I know of no way to shim the rear spring plates to get less camber (or more, for that matter). However, getting zero toe shouldn't be an issue.
Third, as you probably now know, lowering the car increases the rear camber.
Fourth, to increase the caster, you could always cut out the rear control arm mounts and weld new mounting points further outboard. But, then you'd probably have binding up in the cross member (unless you went with an aftermarket control arm that has a monoball there).
Are there any other ways, to change it?.. maybe fabricate tubular control arms that push the balljoint forward a bit?
Im not allowed to change mounting points.
I was just hoping there is a bolt on solution available.
#5
The proposed setup will probably be great for having the front end planted and the rear end going all over the place, so I'd guess that drifting is the intention.
OP, you should be able to get 4-5 degrees of caster on a stock suspension. Mine is sitting at 4.5 as that's the highest I could go while keeping both sides equal.
I haven't tried it, but my camber plates (Ground Control under-mount plates) are slotted in such a way that would let you adjust the location of the upper strut mount rearward, which would give you more positive caster as well. I imagine you might be able to squeeze another .5-1 degree out that way, I dunno about getting as high as 7.
Why 7 in particular?
As far as rear camber goes, I have done a couple alignments on a lowered 944 and I really don't think you'll be able to get close to zero with the factory adjustment.
OP, you should be able to get 4-5 degrees of caster on a stock suspension. Mine is sitting at 4.5 as that's the highest I could go while keeping both sides equal.
I haven't tried it, but my camber plates (Ground Control under-mount plates) are slotted in such a way that would let you adjust the location of the upper strut mount rearward, which would give you more positive caster as well. I imagine you might be able to squeeze another .5-1 degree out that way, I dunno about getting as high as 7.
Why 7 in particular?
As far as rear camber goes, I have done a couple alignments on a lowered 944 and I really don't think you'll be able to get close to zero with the factory adjustment.
Figured since the 944 has 5 degrees of camber thats what i should shoot for.
#6
Rennlist Member
Making custom control arms like this will get you the caster you need.
I assume you're putting in an LS engine? I wouldn't think the 944 turbo engine has enough torque, especially before you build boost, to make it very useful as a drift car.
I assume you're putting in an LS engine? I wouldn't think the 944 turbo engine has enough torque, especially before you build boost, to make it very useful as a drift car.
#7
The 3.0 is a torque monster...still probably going LS in the future or turbo 3.0 16v.
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#9
Rennlist Member
I don't think you'll get to 7 without custom control arms, but I bet with maxing out the factory adjustment and offset-mounting the camber plates you can get in the neighborhood of 5.5 - 6 or so. Probably worth a shot before you go to the expense of one-off suspension bits.
#10
Welp looks like I'm either making arms or modifying the camber plates, still not close to enough.
The car does seem to drive decent, I don't think the caster measurement was done right because it stands the lead wheel up fairly well near full lock.
The car does seem to drive decent, I don't think the caster measurement was done right because it stands the lead wheel up fairly well near full lock.
#13
Rennlist Member
One thing I didn't see mentioned is that the caster blocks themselves have a little bit of "adjustment" available too. The mounting tabs are slotted and allow for a bit of lateral adjustment - shove them as far outboard as you can prior to torquing them down and you'll get a little extra caster. Not much, but every bit helps and it's free.
#15
Rennlist Member