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Front suspension upgrade for Porsche 944/968

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Old 12-21-2016, 02:14 PM
  #76  
V2Rocket
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^^ $200 or whatever every 10 years isn't so bad.
If you're going through ball joints faster than that, you've got another issue.
Old 12-21-2016, 02:29 PM
  #77  
MAGK944
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket
^^ $200 or whatever every 10 years isn't so bad.
If you're going through ball joints faster than that, you've got another issue.
True, but at some point it's probably better to bite the bullet on new arms rather than rebuilding old ones. Problem with rebuilding is that you might have other issues with the arms that a po caused, say from lowering the car or a shunt. Fatigue doesnt always show it's face until it fails while you are driving.

Old 12-21-2016, 02:32 PM
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What is the difference in early vs late offset alum. arms? Is one longer, or is the difference in late style just in the hub like the rear arms?
Old 12-21-2016, 02:39 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket
What is the difference in early vs late offset alum. arms? Is one longer, or is the difference in late style just in the hub like the rear arms?
Early alum & steel are interchangeable. Late are longer so there is no alternative except aftermarket.
Old 12-21-2016, 03:53 PM
  #80  
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The later arms are a little longer. The only item I need left for this expensive setup is the racers edge hubs. M030 4R hubs are installed till then.
Old 12-21-2016, 05:18 PM
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I keep reading about how the steel arms flex, especially with large sway bars, but how much doe they REALLY flex under normal street driving conditions (even mildly aggressive street conditions). I'm considering swapping from aluminum to steel and reinforcing, rather than dropping $200 every 10 years. Unfortunately, that 10 years is up right now, along with the wheel bearings (which disintegrated), a brake job, new struts/shocks all around cause they were shot, and new master/slave for clutch.

I bought a well used, not well loved, 944 and there's more wrong than I realized.
Old 12-21-2016, 05:31 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by MAGK944
Early alum & steel are interchangeable. Late are longer so there is no alternative except aftermarket.
How much longer?
Can't "we" just make a sort of spacer to use the steel arm and steel-arm-ball-joint on the late car?
Old 12-21-2016, 05:49 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket
How much longer?
Can't "we" just make a sort of spacer to use the steel arm and steel-arm-ball-joint on the late car?
About 30mm longer. You could in theory cut and weld in a spacer at the ball joint end to extend the ball joint out 30mm, then box the whole arm to make it stronger. Seems like a lot of work.
Old 12-21-2016, 06:52 PM
  #84  
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the early BJ just has a 3-bolt flange thing. would think you could just make a bolt-on extender piece rather than having to weld anything as a "standard" arm...then welding for "track" cars..
Old 12-21-2016, 07:29 PM
  #85  
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So, if I get this correctly:
1) Steel are the same length from CL of swing-mount to CL of ball joint as the early Aluminum (which went until when?)
2) Late Aluminum are 30mm long from swing-mount to CL of ball joint, but otherwise identical?
3) Strut Length is longer on late than on early, correct?
4) Spindle on late is same as or different from early?
5) Strut tower on late is same as or different from early?

If 1-3 above are correct, that explains how they retain camber alignment by going to a longer control arm.
Old 12-21-2016, 08:31 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by ClassicStyle
So, if I get this correctly:
1) Steel are the same length from CL of swing-mount to CL of ball joint as the early Aluminum (which went until when?) Yes, early steel went to 85.5, early aluminum was 86 only, late started in 87
2) Late Aluminum are 30mm long from swing-mount to CL of ball joint, but otherwise identical? No, late aluminum arms are 30mm longer overall than early, but otherwise identical to early aluminum
3) Strut Length is longer on late than on early, correct? No, they are the same
4) Spindle on late is same as or different from early? Different by about 4 degrees with different camber bolt spacing
5) Strut tower on late is same as or different from early? If you mean "strut mount" they are different. The actual strut towers on the body where the struts fit into are the same on all models, early or late

If 1-3 above are correct, that explains how they retain camber alignment by going to a longer control arm. No, camber is adjusted on all models, early or late, by an eccentric bolt on the spindle.
...
Old 12-21-2016, 10:01 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by ClassicStyle
I keep reading about how the steel arms flex, especially with large sway bars, but how much doe they REALLY flex under normal street driving conditions (even mildly aggressive street conditions). I'm considering swapping from aluminum to steel and reinforcing, rather than dropping $200 every 10 years. Unfortunately, that 10 years is up right now, along with the wheel bearings (which disintegrated), a brake job, new struts/shocks all around cause they were shot, and new master/slave for clutch.

I bought a well used, not well loved, 944 and there's more wrong than I realized.
I can't see a street car with 'relatively normal' sized wheels/tyres and not slammed to hell that you would need anything more than stock. As Spencer says, if you're going through these unusually quickly then something is causing this symptom.
Old 12-21-2016, 11:08 PM
  #88  
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I agree. On a street car .....Save the money.
Old 12-22-2016, 01:04 AM
  #89  
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For my street car:
Attached Images  
Old 12-22-2016, 02:01 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by URG8RB8
For my street car:
Aichiwawa what did those set you back? I'd love to do something like that, but crikey I can't imagine they were affordable in any regard.


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