How To Replace FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator 1991 C2 964
#16
The only issue I have with that is that if you disconnect the battery, it will most likely (not always) require a computer re-adaptation with a Bosch hammer that is hard to find for some folks. If you keep the ignition off... shouldn't be a problem.
Last edited by flypfi; 10-16-2016 at 01:36 PM.
#18
Super90,
I just changed oil temp/pressure senders in same general area. Was wondering about needing to disconnect battery, but alternator looked covered up and wanted to avoid another adaptation.
So where's the hot wire(s) in that area?
Thanks, Dan
I just changed oil temp/pressure senders in same general area. Was wondering about needing to disconnect battery, but alternator looked covered up and wanted to avoid another adaptation.
So where's the hot wire(s) in that area?
Thanks, Dan
#19
I didn't do an adaptation at the time. Car seemed to run fine after. Others on the board know that system better than I.
Now I've been disconnecting the battery any time I have the engine bay apart for more than simple things. It used to be step one for all operations back 20-30 years ago, and I skipped it that one time.
Does the car really need an adaptation after that? Please fill me in. Thinking more about it, I had other cars in the 90's with Motronic (BMW 5er) and they never required a system adaptation after disconnecting the battery. You just drove the car for a while. Why does the 964?
I did borrow Tore's system from a friend and have my own on order so I can run it if need be.
Last edited by Super90; 10-16-2016 at 12:15 AM.
#20
My car, 90 C4, definitely would need adaptation. There is a pronounced bounce to idle after lifting throttle and a lag to throttle response from idle. Later model years may not need adaptation as I suspect the adaptation is fixing something that is amiss in ECU/ISV initial conditions for early model years that may have been fixed in later years. YMMV. Good luck.
#21
Well, I completed the R&R of the FPR today. I left a little skin and blood under the intake, Flypfi you were not kidding about the 24MM nut on the return port of the FPR. I ended up bending the bracket when it broke loose. While I was in there, new decklid shocks were installed. Car is running great, plan on giving the car a good run tomorrow. Now it's time for a double shot of Single Malt!
Phatnine11
Phatnine11
#23
I'll fill in the last steps, as I remember them, to pull the throttle body out of the way. Notice my FPR is compromised and you'll see the mess in the photos. I just had all this apart a spotless a few months ago. Not clean any more !
Pull the line from this vacuum port and then loosen the bolt holding the a/c lines to the throttle body
Disconnect the throttle cable:
Pull the line from this vacuum port and then loosen the bolt holding the a/c lines to the throttle body
Disconnect the throttle cable:
#25
Loosen this hose clamp and pull this breather line loose from the left side of the TB (just next to those vac lines)
Remove the ICV by loosening the two hose clamps and remove the electrical connector. Then loosen the clamp circled in red and pull the ICV off
Remove the ICV by loosening the two hose clamps and remove the electrical connector. Then loosen the clamp circled in red and pull the ICV off
The following users liked this post:
cbracerx (05-25-2022)
#27
Finally a new FPR is available from Amazon, yes that's right.
$108 delivered (thanks Amazon Prime)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$108 delivered (thanks Amazon Prime)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#28
OMG... you saved me with this post.
the hidden hose on the back of intake 3, bloody hell.
I had to replace the rubber intake sleeves on the tops of the fuel injector stacks, they were leaking air into the cyls and running hot, and causing knock sensor 32 and hall sensor too. what a job getting those big rubber sleeves back on the manifold...
when I got everything back together, so I thought, the Brake pedal turned to stone, and the car would not run
after 2 weeks of staring at the engine, I found this string.
found the 'little hidden hose' as you call it... I called it something else.
once I got the hose back on, and tightened... blind screw head...
put her back to together and all codes gone and perfect idle with my brake pedal working again!
please post any repair you do. Love your pic's and arrow's
Brad
the hidden hose on the back of intake 3, bloody hell.
I had to replace the rubber intake sleeves on the tops of the fuel injector stacks, they were leaking air into the cyls and running hot, and causing knock sensor 32 and hall sensor too. what a job getting those big rubber sleeves back on the manifold...
when I got everything back together, so I thought, the Brake pedal turned to stone, and the car would not run
after 2 weeks of staring at the engine, I found this string.
found the 'little hidden hose' as you call it... I called it something else.
once I got the hose back on, and tightened... blind screw head...
put her back to together and all codes gone and perfect idle with my brake pedal working again!
please post any repair you do. Love your pic's and arrow's
Brad
#30
Just an FYI/update - about to tackle this job and discovered that the missing photos from the initial post can be found here:
https://www.garageguides.com/guide/p...or-1991-c2-964
https://www.garageguides.com/guide/p...or-1991-c2-964