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The only issue I have with that is that if you disconnect the battery, it will most likely (not always) require a computer re-adaptation with a Bosch hammer that is hard to find for some folks. If you keep the ignition off... shouldn't be a problem.
I just changed oil temp/pressure senders in same general area. Was wondering about needing to disconnect battery, but alternator looked covered up and wanted to avoid another adaptation.
I just changed oil temp/pressure senders in same general area. Was wondering about needing to disconnect battery, but alternator looked covered up and wanted to avoid another adaptation.
So where's the hot wire(s) in that area?
Thanks, Dan
I had mine all apart doing similar items and it led to me ordering more parts and a further delay. A couple weeks later and the battery was so dead I had to purchase another one. Your experience may vary.
I didn't do an adaptation at the time. Car seemed to run fine after. Others on the board know that system better than I.
Now I've been disconnecting the battery any time I have the engine bay apart for more than simple things. It used to be step one for all operations back 20-30 years ago, and I skipped it that one time.
Does the car really need an adaptation after that? Please fill me in. Thinking more about it, I had other cars in the 90's with Motronic (BMW 5er) and they never required a system adaptation after disconnecting the battery. You just drove the car for a while. Why does the 964?
I did borrow Tore's system from a friend and have my own on order so I can run it if need be.
My car, 90 C4, definitely would need adaptation. There is a pronounced bounce to idle after lifting throttle and a lag to throttle response from idle. Later model years may not need adaptation as I suspect the adaptation is fixing something that is amiss in ECU/ISV initial conditions for early model years that may have been fixed in later years. YMMV. Good luck.
Well, I completed the R&R of the FPR today. I left a little skin and blood under the intake, Flypfi you were not kidding about the 24MM nut on the return port of the FPR. I ended up bending the bracket when it broke loose. While I was in there, new decklid shocks were installed. Car is running great, plan on giving the car a good run tomorrow. Now it's time for a double shot of Single Malt!
Phatnine11
I'll fill in the last steps, as I remember them, to pull the throttle body out of the way. Notice my FPR is compromised and you'll see the mess in the photos. I just had all this apart a spotless a few months ago. Not clean any more !
Pull the line from this vacuum port and then loosen the bolt holding the a/c lines to the throttle body
This picture shows the throttle body off, but loosen the big clamp via the screw circled, then the whole throttle body should pull straight out towards you. The FPR is now easily accessed.
the hidden hose on the back of intake 3, bloody hell.
I had to replace the rubber intake sleeves on the tops of the fuel injector stacks, they were leaking air into the cyls and running hot, and causing knock sensor 32 and hall sensor too. what a job getting those big rubber sleeves back on the manifold...
when I got everything back together, so I thought, the Brake pedal turned to stone, and the car would not run
after 2 weeks of staring at the engine, I found this string.
found the 'little hidden hose' as you call it... I called it something else.
once I got the hose back on, and tightened... blind screw head...
put her back to together and all codes gone and perfect idle with my brake pedal working again!
please post any repair you do. Love your pic's and arrow's
This is a fantastic time to look at the fuel lines to ensure none are unsafe (bubbling, cracking, etc.) and to replace both the breather gasket and the oil pressure sensor o-ring!
10-15-2016, 12:10 AM
