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Do I need a spring compressor to do this? I have Tarrett camber plates to install in my 997.1 Carrera S, and don't have a clear idea if I need a spring compressor to complete the install.
There is no definitive install write up for this product that I can find, just Tarrett's general install PDF which says nothing about how to lower the shock, and a write-up on complete strut removal, which I assume is more than I have to do for this procedure.
I will know once I jack the car up. The suspension is otherwise stock and will remain so except for camber plates.. for now. I just want to gather all of the tools I need prior to the installation.
There is no definitive install write up for this product that I can find, just Tarrett's general install PDF which says nothing about how to lower the shock, and a write-up on complete strut removal, which I assume is more than I have to do for this procedure.
Thanks,
I would assume that you do as the camber plates will have to assembled as part of the shock. I assume you are hoping that you can slide the shock down enough to disassemble the top of the shock assembly and then reinstall?
The stock springs will still be under some compression when the car is up on jackstands and the other factor is going to be access into free up the top nut and disassemble the top of the assembly.
Make sure your spring compressor is on well and if in doubt get your fingers out!
You probably do not need a spring compressor. But my experience is with Damptronics, not a stock setup. They had two springs, one an easily compressed by hand helper spring.
One trick you can do if in a pinch is to secure the spring with tie wraps. Use multiple thick ones while the weight of the front end is on the wheels. Then when you jack the car and lift the wheels off the ground the springs will still be compressed and constrained by the tie wraps. Again, thicker heavy duty ones, and use a lot of them, you don't want them to snap.
Finally, the Tarett camber plates are awesome but only work in high camber mode for the 997. There is an interference in normal camber mode that prevent them from fitting. So if you are looking for more negative camber they work great. If you just want the top monoball keeping the camber setup the same, or will adjust camber at the LCA, then look elsewhere. They work in both modes on the 996 though. See here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...dard-mode.html
Semi provides excellent advice as usual. As an alternative, you can grind off the interference point of the Tarret plate if you want to use it in regular camber mode.
Go rent spring compressors - I think they're free at either auto zone or advance. You buy them but they refund the money when you return them.
Originally Posted by semicycler
Finally, the Tarett camber plates are awesome but only work in high camber mode for the 997. There is an interference in normal camber mode that prevent them from fitting. So if you are looking for more negative camber they work great. If you just want the top monoball keeping the camber setup the same, or will adjust camber at the LCA, then look elsewhere. They work in both modes on the 996 though. See here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...dard-mode.html
You need a strut nut socket. Schwaben makes them. Or you could grind the side off of a sacrificial regular socket.
Or take the whole strut assembly along with the new camber plates to a local garage to swap the top mounts for you. I had a local shop do it for $20 cash for the pair because I did not have the right tools to hold the tube while loosening the nut.
Another option, and what I use, is a socket set designed for use on very long bolts where all the gearing for the ratchet is on the inside ring of the ratchet and the gearing that mates with it on the sockets is on the outer edge of the sockets. With this setup long bolts can pass completely through the socket, as can the PASM wire and top of your strut. While you hold the top of the strut with a wrench, you can work the nut with the socket. If installing Damptronics where the wire exits the bottom, it also lets you hold the top of the strut with an allen wrench or torx (don't recall which) while you work the nut with the socket.
My set is Craftsman but there's a Kobalt version available from Lowes too. It also comes in very handy as a clutch bleeding setup, as shown here.
When I replaced my stock springs with H&R Sport Springs, I had no luck getting spring compressors to work because the ones I had were too big to fit in the wheel well when it was all put together. What worked for me was using small cargo straps that you can ratchet down tight. Sketchy AF but it worked. Clearing the fender with the strut assembly was still a b*tch.
For the PASM wire, I did what semicycler said and grinded a cutout in a sacrificial socket.
09-12-2016, 09:07 PM
Camber plate install question
